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Agreed. Also make sure not to bend it. It is very thin metal and next to impossible to straighten if bent.

I have a full OTC kit with the specific Jeep adapter pieces. Makes ball joints about 30 mins per side from wheel off to wheel on. Also works great for u joints.

I haven’t really looked at them but there almost endless axle swap candidates out there. What’s the axle from? What’s the wheel pattern and the width? Is the pinion centered or offset? Drum or disk brakes? Dropout center section or traditional housing? Are aftermarket gears and lockers available? Any pics would be nice.

It is removable. Best way I’ve found to remove the black coating is with a propane torch. Heat the back side of the trim and it will literally fall off. Try not to melt the coating though. If you do, you will have to sand it off.

All coats complete and rear window urethane in. It’s directly onto the epoxy primer as suggested with no paint or clear in the actual frame glue joint. Came out super nice. Will work on completing the interior tomorrow.

At 2 coats of clear

Did a final coat of epoxy over all the body work then 2 coats of sealer for good color uniformity. Got every little bump and bruise out if the rear cab. 3 coats of base are down now. Giving it a 30 min flash then tack it off and shoot 5 coats of clear.

Is the truck lifted? Stock driveshaft? My suspect would be driveshaft/u joints but would need to know the angles of everything to see where the problem may be. If your running a stock driveshaft, the pinion yoke and transfer case output must be parallel. Any chance that has been altered at some point?

Seems like I did see that option in a dealer accessories brochure for the MJ. The sunroof was still available new as of just a few months ago. Let me see if I can dig-up the link. Edit: it’s from CR Laurence but I don’t recall which model number was listed as the one for a Comanche. It was a universal part though just like most dealer option sun/moon roofs at the time.

Not likely, your steering alignment may be a bit off though.

I suppose

If your planning on keeping that tire size 3.55’s are ok. Basically you have a metric 31-32”. It won’t be the best gear ratio if you intend to off-road or you have a lot of hills to deal with but it will work. I’d suggest 4.10’s for that tire size.

Bent drag link. May have gotten bashed on a rock or something. There should be plenty of clearance between the tie rod end and track bar mount

Two applications of fiber tech were applied to really get into any little nooks and crannies that are left over from the sheet metal work. Once it fully cured, I hit it with 80 grit and moved to the Rage filler. Took two coats for all of it and 4 total coats in some areas once the skim and touch ups were all done and feathered in. Lots of sanding especially block sanding to smooth out any imperfections. Took extra time on the backs of the b pillars and the blend lines to really smooth them all out. DA sanded it all in 220 to feather out. Tomorrow will be a final sanding with block then 220 DA followed by 2 coats of epoxy primer/sealer. Tape lines will be redone then it’s on the the final prep before base/clear. 3 coats of base and 5 clear so I can sand off the top coat for a perfect finish. How to have the bed back on over the weekend then complete the interior. Picked up some new ACC carpet without mass backing. That mass backing just crumbs and flakes all over the place plus it stinks if the floor is hot after a lot of stop and go traffic. Have a new cargo light going on also which is a custom LED unit. I’ll move into the front end after the interior is done and install the metal cloak 6” springs I picked up. Also need to install my transgo shift kit. Lots of work but definitely feels like I’m on the home stretch.

2 coats of Evercoat Fiber Tech over the welds. Followed by a couple coats of Rage filler. One final coat of epoxy primer to seal then in to base/clear. It has been raining here non stop for over a week so it’s slow going. Tape doesn’t want to stick among other troubles.

Makes sense. I recall seeing that info for motor oil in the ax15. Some “report” higher temps using motor oil in the trans and tcase. The data is hard to sort out though since there are so many variables. I can only report that sae 30 motor oil in the tcase on my mj has been working great for a while now. I also ran motor oil in my ax15’s. Worked very well for me.

4.56 is nice and peppy

Just finished all the heavy sanding and epoxy primed all the bare metal surfaces. I feel like pointing out that bondo or any other plastic fillers should not be applied directly to bare metal and especially not over any weld joints. That is just asking for rust. Over welded/repaired metal it should go: Bare metal (I use weld through copper primer under any overlap joints), epoxy primer, fiberglass stranded filler, plastic filler, epoxy primer, base/clear or singla stage. I tracked down so much fine surface rust just hiding out on the sheet metal especially under the rear window frame. Also, there should be no paint between the window frame and the window. The epoxy primer bonds excellently to the bare metal then you can lay your urethane window adhesive right on that epoxy primer once it cures. There should be paint under the window trim though, just not inside the frame itself. Factory doesn’t do it this way since it would take a lot longer but is definitely worth it. On my other MJ I’m going to start with a full tear down and media blast or dip the entire body/uniframe.

Correct viscosity clean oil and filter is way more important than minute additives. As was mentioned, the 4.0/2.5 are incredibly well lived engines even with very poor maintenance. Personally, I do use a little zinc additive to keep the cam happy since most conventional oils that I can get here lack that.

There’s not that much of a difference between 4.56 and 4.10. Definitely doable on 31’s. The crawl ratio is good also. And your setup for 33’s should the mood strike.

Correct, I misspoke. Same flange pattern. Different part number for the backing plate. The brakes are interchangeable though if you swap over the backing plates and internals.

2457 RPM in 5th gear at 70. That’s a nice place for the 4.0 to be.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html This will give you all the info you need for ratios and gearing

The passenger side drop was an early model. You can run a Dana 300 transfer case for the passenger side drop if you like.