ParadiseMJ

That would explain why mine is nort connected...no cruise.

The frame rails are 42-43 inches apart FYI. The Ho-made hitch I found at the junkyard was just laying on the ground...obviously it wasn't for an MJ...even though it was under an MJ. The guy said I could just have it for nothing (aka scrap) When I tried to install it into the threaded hole(s) I found that it would not fit between the rail and the spring eye. Hey, it was free!! Since then the only hitch I've been able to find for an MJ has been a front hitch. My brother has access to a plasma cutter (he's a smithy). I've yet to get to it, it's be great to have a template for the drop. Maybe I'll just have to lay on my back for awhile and make one.

...and just to be sure...fill it until it runs out the TOP hole. You'll use a lot less fluid that way.

What color wire? I have an extra wire too...black w/red tracer and a single prong connector. It isn't my underhood light. Comes out of the TCU harness.

There is no question. There may be one in your head, but not written down. Please don't be so testy. You may run in to some people that might make other comments, you'd do better just rolling with it. Please only hit the POST button once. If you ask a question, you might get an answer. If you come back like a tight a$$, you'll get it back.

Thanks...that's the one I was looking for. I'm a visual guy.

Like he said ^^^^ There are 3 "sensors" for engine coolant temps on a Renix Jeep. There is the gauge (or light) sensor...it just provides a reading on the gauge or light...the one on the head. It's a sender. There is the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) on the driverside lower block. This provides the ECU with info for air/fuel mixture. It's a sensor There is the radiator temp switch. It's sole function is to send a signal to the auxillary electric fan relay. It's a switch. The Corvette also uses a switch, and it can be mounted in the HO t-stat housing bung, as in, it fits and it WILL do the same job. I have no idea which years or what P/N. Also, the HO wiring can be spliced but it would not turn the fan on because it's a different type of signal. I mounted an HO sensor on an HO t-stat housing, and it plugged right in to the existing e-fan connector and existing wiring, I thought I had it licked. So, it didn't work and I couldn't figure it out (I am electrically retarded). I just finally wired in a switch in the cab, which I actually like better. http://www.olypen.co...aigh/auxfan.htm BUT like hornbrod sez, take a close look at the new radiator. Some have the bung already but it's hidden behind a knockout (like on an electrical junction box). If the knockout is there you may just get lucky, because it's already threaded. Good luck.

Small weave. You can't just paint it on without some glass (cloth) over the holes. Measure and mock it up, pre-cut the pieces, mix the resin with hardener (don't do the whole gallon at once, pour some into another, disposable container), get the area wet with resin, place the cloth, get the cloth wet with more resin. Dab it in to the corners and remove as many air pockets as possible. If you have holes, just put wet cloth over the hole, and apply the resin. Keep forming it and eliminating bubbles. When the resin starts looking like Jell-o, you're done (as in you can't work it after that. If you have to do all four corners, do it in two or three batches, or do the front, let it set up. Then do the back, set-up, then finish it up Once the resin starts setting up you should have it finished

When I swapped in the AW4 I had to get a matching spline transfer case. So, from Renix to HO, no more CAD. But I have the thing on the road and I have not yet done the CAD delete, locked over. Everything else is hooked up...what can I say, I've procrastinated. So if I engage the transfer case with the lever, and the axle is not locked over and has no vacuum, do I then have 3 wheel drive, or is the whole axle just free spinning?? Also, I thought I saved the lock over directions, I know it's pretty simple. Can one of you fine folks link me to a good CAD delete write-up? Simple yes, I just want to look at it again.

All good suggestions above. The cowl drain can be clogged, the cowl seal can be cracked, worn too. The most common "not rain water" and not coolant leak, that I know of is the clogged A/C drain. That, by itself, could not produce the gallon or so of water that would accumulate over night during a good rain. Here's my story about an elusive leak. The first time I noticed it was after a good overnight storm. The entire passenger side footwell had about an inch of water not including what the carpet and padding had already soaked up. After sucking it all out and getting it thoroughly dry I began parking my XJ facing uphill all last winter for fear that Lake Cherokee would fill up again...even 1 or 2 degrees up made all the difference. That ruled out the HVAC drain and the cowl. Then I found where it was coming in. On the front passenger door frame there is a strip of rubber, that had come loose in a couple spots and warped a bit. It turned out that the entire volume of rain water (or washing) if the Jeep was parked facing downhill drained into the gutter, exited the gutter, made its way into the door crack and dribbled right past the warped seal. It re-glued the inner door seal and flattened it out...ba-da-bing, no more leak.

X2 on this...I used fiberglass & resin to repair/reshape my board. Worked great. If you've never worked with it, just add a little less catalyst/hardener so you'll have a bit more time to work with it before it sets up. You need to add "enough", just don't add as much as the recipe calls for (like 1/4 less). Pre measure and pre-cut the glass fabric. Don't "paint" the board, it will suck up the resin like crazy. Just use it on the immediate area you need to repair/reshape.

When I had the glass replaced on my MJ they told me that the "seal" (rubber) would just be bulk rubber trim, and that the 97+ trim would cost me $100+/- and would not seal anything, it's just trim. I opted to reuse the old trim which I had sanded, primed and painted. One of the side pieces was gleaned from the JY. If you wanna go with the rubber, and don't mind the price tag, go for it. The only one that will notice will be you. It looks good, whole job cost me $200 and it's U.S. made glass. The glass on my XJ was replaced about 4 years ago, insurance job, for $300 and it started pitting after about a year, and that's just with regular use, no sandstorms or excessive dusty conditions. I don't know where that glass was made. They also re-used the old trim, which was chrome...or stainless actually.

So, for any of you readers... antidisestablishmentarianism = what, WTF, WTH OP, your post is messed up, hard to read. Edit and/or re-post. No one can tell antidisestablishmentarianism is wrong with your Jeep if they can't read the post. Antidisestablishmentarianism is this world coming to??

A 15mm wrench....and there is one 11/16" nut too. The spline count should be the same. It should just bolt on. After you remove the drive shafts you should just be able to remove the old, and slide on the new. Before you do make sure you've done everything to the "new" T-case tha you want to do, like replacing the vent hose, any seals you want to replace. Getting to those things once the t-case is installed is a PITA.

So, not to hijack, (I'll go away if I'm stepping on toes) but does that mean I could install my waiting 8.8 with 4.10's and still run the 3.07 D30 if the front driveshaft is removed?? Until I get an HP D30 with matching gears?? Is the front just freewheeling then?

Those won't fit on an 87'. They'd be perfect for my 88'. Shipping to zip 95969?? :yes:

You could PM it to me for starters.

Agree. The one I pulled out of my BA10 just worked the rev. lights...when I removed the plug, the shift indicator still worked. Just the one sensor on the trans. Seems to me the shift indicator worked right along with the tach.

...but the kit includes 2 stickers!! What exactly does the "warning sticker" say??

Check you glove box latch. It can break or fall out of adjustment and the light will stay on if it doesn't click. That's what mine was...chased it for a week or more.

Unless you look like THIS... ...use a GOOD tranny or motorcycle jack. No need to bust a gut or kill yourself.

She??

The Tera-Flex discos I have on the XJ came with a nylon strap with eyelets on each end. One end is screwed to the wheel well with a screw and a clip. When you disco, the bar swings up and the strap gets wrapped around the bar, the other eyelet clips in to the clip...the pins go in the console when not on the disco's. I'll scan the instructions if I can find them. It's a good set-up. Never lost a strap or pin or disco yet. It'd be easy to make the same thing out of some nylon strap material and a trip to the hardware store.

It stretches all the way to the end...and a persons legs should always be long enough to reach the ground.

MJ had whole interior out when I bought it. Now the back panel, headliner and any empty pillar space that I could stuff it in to has regular old fiberglass household insulation. The floor has the usual batting, foil clad bubble wrap, vinyl mat and finally carpet. When I slam the doors it sound like a Mercedes. Really the only noise that bothers me is the exhaust leak at the donut (a little annoying and soon to be fixed) and the muffler which has a golf ball size hole in it. Since it's not a daily driver I am constantly procrastinating on fix.