ParadiseMJ

FIRE BAD !!! Replace the whole bunch of them. If you go to the auto parts store you'll find out that EACH stock injector costs $50-$55 ...aka $300+...(I just about crapped myself). For that price you'll get the same old leaky style injectors. I bought these for both my rigs...they're great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-BOSCH-III-4-HOLE-UPGRADE-FUEL-INJECTORS-87-98-JEEP-4-0-TJ-WJ-XJ-YJ-ZJ-/150983767270?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23275574e6&vxp=mtr They come with o-rings and are ready to pop in. Do it!!

AFAIK there should only be 2 o-rings in there. The third item is a hard plastic spacer and should be sandwiched between the 2 o-rings. While the o-rings are easy to find, the spacer is not. So don't toss the spacer. Get Nitrile (Buna-N) o-rings for fuel systems. As told in the link above the clips are available at NAPA, AZone or OReilly's off the rack. The re-assembly of the connector is thus: I always soak the o-rings in a little fuel and put a little Vaseline, or KY (whatever is handy, ha ha) into the female end of the connector.(Is it getting warm in here??) Slide the clip over the fuel line with the "wings" pointing backwards towards the line til it clicks over the ridge on the line, then one of the o-rings, then the spacer, then another o-ring... Then slide the whole assembly in and push it all the way in until it gives you a tiny little "click". Check for leaks. You're done. According to the FSM the connector, o-rings, spacer etal should be replaced every time the fuel line is disconnected. Do I ? No. But I always carry the clips and o-rings in a special little zip-loc bag in my tool box. If you spring a leak in the middle of nowhere...or anywhere for that matter it's one of those things that needs to be fixed...NOW!

So, what you REALLY want to do is convert the "Bumblebee" to 4x. Right? If the driveshaft is the only hurdle between using an XJ or an MJ...Xj's are abundant, driveshafts can be fabbed, e-e-easily. I had the drive line shop do mine for $120. Balanced it, shined it up, painted it and put u-bolts in the yoke so no more strap bolts and much stronger. Driving a stick is a BASIC skill that everyone should be capable of. Besides, most "kids" will want a stick. It wouldn't be the "Bumblebee" anymore...it'd have to be the Bumblebee II or BB NexGen.

The Automatic uses a Neutral Safey Switch (NSS) tha incorporates the back up light switch. The Manual just uses a screw in "ball" switch. The good news is that the switch for the manual is much cheaper and much easier to install.

Sounds like alot of work to accomodate somone. Is there a physical reason your cousin CAN'T drive a stick?? If not, teach your cousin to drive a stick!!

If you cover the area with tape...to keep the paint from chipping as you trim. You can use a sawz-all or a jig saw with a fine tooth blade.

Nope. completely different animal.

Pshaw!!

When I was swapping my trans I had to find a matching t-case. I found several at the JY for $40-50. Worth the trip, and the grime.

The white truck - For Sale The blue truck - OP's I assume - ...unless it's a copyrighted photo, once it's on the web, it's "world wide". Craigslist might be able to flag the photo as misrepresentation, but other than that it's everybody's picture. Seems a prospective buyer might ask about the white truck being a blue truck...nice picture though. This is NOT a picture of my brain. This IS! Feel free to use it, even though it's MY brain.

If the old cluster has idiot lights instead of gauges, you'll need new sensor/senders for temp and oil pressure. If you're just swapping a gauge cluster for a gauge cluster, it's plug n' play. As for the second question, drive in reverse. Actually you SHOULD certify the "not actual mileage" claim with the DMV in case you ever sell it.

Well, that's more important than any dumb, stupid old hose!! Go for it!! :thumbsup:

In states (or counties) that require emission inspections, that is a sure fail. Just a breather filter does not suffice. It may not be key for running purposes, it may not be required in Texas, Ohio, Tennessee, or W.Virginia.

The control for CC is on the stalk...if you have a column with a cruise stalk, you're good. If not it's probably easier to swap the whole thing. You need: The switch & wiring The servo The cable to the throttle body (and the bracket that holds it) The throttle body that the cable hooks to (my 88 Pioneer did not have the same exact throttle body as my 90 XJ Laredo) The two sided football shaped vacuum reservoir as opposed to the round ball. ...and an understanding of how it all works.

Where are the pics?

How are your battery cables...alternator wiring...grounds? The battery cables can look OK on the outside and still be corroded / old / &%$#*ed up on the inside and down at the engine ground. Are all your connectors on the battery in good shape? Have you verified the fuel pressure with a gauge instead of just "pulled the fuel line"? When you say you have spark, is it a snappy blue spark or is it a yellowish kinda weak spark...makes a huge difference. Could even be a dying coil or ICM. By the way, if you pull the fuel line at the disconnect on the fuel rail...it's reccomended that you replace the o-rings and re-use the spacer. Use the schrader valve on the fuel line instead of yanking the line off. Have you checked or tested or cleaned out your CPS and associated wiring, connectors? Kinda sounds like you need to refresh all your connections...there's usually more involved in a no-start than just the battery and the alternator (and/or starter motor). As far as the choice of battery...the Duralast Gold you got is fine. I've been running those for years in my rigs, I refuse to spend the extra over-rated money on an Optima. I read about guys spending a shizzle load of money on the Optimas only to have them crap out well within the warranty period. Like out on the trail, in the woods, on vacation, at the beach etc. etc. (when you need it most!!!) Look for Cruiser54's Mostly Renix tips...connector refresh...ground refresh if he doesn't pop up on the screen within the next 30 seconds. :thumbsup:

I had to pull and re-install my AW4 4-5 times...because of my own inexperience and impatience getting it all right. I'm really good at it now. :thumbsup: I can pull it in about 20 minutes now. I did not have to suffer the torx heads, the BA/10 had apparently been out before and PO had re-installed it with regular hex heads...although they were grade 5's. All better now, I put in hex grade 8's

First, if you do the CAD elimination it's a.) easy b.) free c.) permanent you'll never have to mess with it again d.) or reversible just in case you are one of the two guys on Earth that don't like it. Eliminating the vacuum system will in no way affect running or driveability. It took me an hour to do it...52 minutes of which was spent cleaning it up, cleaning off the cover, wire wheeling the servo, capping the now needless vacuum lines and laying under the Jeep admiring my work. Vacuum lines disconnected, broken, damaged etc. Not the engine vac lines. Get under there and start at the vacuum disconnect servo on the passenger side axle. There is a large rubber plug with 3 (green, yellow, blue) vacuum lines. It's usually filthy and caked with grease. First, make sure it's connected to the axle servo. If it is, follow those lines up to the fender liner where they meet the metal lines. Look for any cracks, splits, holes or wear marks. Then go to the back side of the transfer case and see that the big brass vacuum "bolt" is in good shape and hooked up. Follow those lines too, looking for the same cracks etc. If you have to replace those color coded vac lines, replace them as a unit.

Is it possible that you're doing something wrong with the installation?? When I replaced my slave on the old BA-10, I basically did the same job you're descibing. I got the part from NAPA...it lasted for a good 20K miles before I swapped in the AW4.

I think it is photoshopped...the reflection on the door looks sketchy. What area in China is that? Or is it Australia? The underhood light looks like Renix era, as well as the side mirrors and it's got the same headrest style as my 90 XJ. Looks like a Scout front clip and front axle...with the locking hubs. If it's not from a factory (in China) , it's a mighty nice fab job.

I've only seen two at the yards, but they do collect alot of crap up in there, and so back east in rusty zones they're likely the first thing to drop off. A friend of mine had a skid on his 94 Toyota that was "imported" from his son in Virginia. Two of the four mounting points were completely gone, he ripped it off...the rest of it had rusted so badly it was not worth fixing. The one I sent you was completely caked an inch thick with D.G. (aka "decomposed granite") kind of a gravelly sand that is used on roads instead of salt up in the Sierras (snow zone) yet not rusty at all. I think they just rust out and fall off in the rust belt.

The only common mounting point is in the front part of the frame rail. Even then it's not just a matter of cutting here and drilling there...they are completely different animals.

CCV to intake MANIFOLD The part is sold at NAPA. Has a 26mm metered orofice. Just jamming a hose in there is wrong. It's not just a breather valve. If you have the part that goes IN the VC you might be able to repair the hose, but don't count on it. Find a new mechanic...this guy is not a Jeep mechanic.

The "switch" is the plunger in the door jamb. Courtesy lights in the foot well should come on, and if the upper lights are in the correct position and working, they'll come on too. There are 3 positions for the switch INSIDE the light fixture itself. Tilted up, flat and tilted down...I don't remember which is which as i now have after market lights. I've worked on a couple truck and an old Volvo with this type of light fixture. Usually the contact inside the lights are the culprit when the upper lights don't work. Pull the whole fixture out, pull the bulb, look on the ends where the bulb fits in, the roller contacts are almost always dirty or corroded. If you clean those off and make sure the roller is making contact as it rolls back and forth, it should fix the problem. I used a small soft wire brass brush and contact cleaner.

I have an intake and a coolant bottle squeezing my resistor...I've relocated everything else...good call. Is there any dirt in Alabama?? If so, apparently none of it has made it to your engine bay. Squeaky!!