ParadiseMJ

The dimmer on the regular headlight switch does work. It will go from bright to mid range to off, it just seemed a little choppy, like in levels, not a smooth transition. I just keep it on the highest setting, I never really use the dimmer anyway. It good to know that someone else was bugged by the brightness of the hi-beam light, and that it's not just my eyes.

I did this to my XJ...along with the white gauge faces. It worked out great EXCEPT the high beam indicator. After I drove it a few times when dark I noticed that that one blue light shined directly in my face and was kind of blinding, way too bright for me. I removed it and replaced it with a regular bulb. So all the other lights, since they shine on the side of the gauge and not directly at your face, work out fine. Also FYI, they do not dim down gradually as well as incandescent bulbs.

Need lighting?? This guy took it to a whole new level. It is a good write-up. ...some interesting work...and so clean!! You could run a Vegas style show with the lighting on this XJ http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1097704

All my vac lines that went to the airbox are intact, except for the one to the servo at the front...that lets warm air from the cowling on the exhaust manifold. I bought a piece that spans the gap from the rubber "accordian" from the intake to the filter. I has four grommet blanks and necessary grommets. Use holes as necessary. So far it's legal in CA and only leaves one line (the one to the servo on the box) capped. It looks super bitchin' too, which is the only really important part

If you live in California, the smog boys will flunk you on the tank pressure test. It's yet another way they get you on emissions without OBD. With OBD I or II you'd throw a p0455 code for a large leak. Since Renix (I'm a$$$uming Renix) won't pop a code all you'll get is gas fumes. To pass California smog, they pressurize the tank...and it has to hold pressure...or you'll fail. If you don't live in California, or another state that uses the same test then all you're doing is releasing gas fumes into the atmosphere. The hose itself is just bulk hose...aka dirt cheap...so if I were you I'd just replace it.

In Napa?? No, that'd be here in Paradise Now how would a guy get wine stains on his shirt? Oh, wait, I have wine stains on MY shirt...I musta spilt it!!

The reverse lights is either the NSS or the 7.5A fuse under the dash marked TRANS. Try the fuse first, then you could give just adjusting the NSS a try. If all this fails, take the NSS out and clean it, re-install and adjust it. The brake lights could also be the fuse marked STOP LPS or more likely the brake light switch. Both are rather easy to replace. The 88 brake light switch is much easier and simpler in operation than the later model XJ's. Should be a 2 wire connector that clips on to the switch. The switch itself is just one bolt.

I scored all my panel fasteners at my local ACE hardware. The ones that hold the "vent" on the b pillar, the ones for the splash gaurd, even the ones that hold the plastic trim to the side of the seat bottom. If you have a decent hardware store with a decent nut/bolt/screw department, they'll probably have them. There might even be some in the HELP! section at NAPA, AutoZone, Oreilly's etc.

You spelled probally wrong!! See, just that pissed you off. Required: sense of humor

I did the very same thing on my first brake job on my 90 XJ...live and learn. Good job.

The calipers are side specific. They'll fit fine on the wrong side. The bleeders need to be on the TOP of the caliper...if they're not...you have them on the wrong side. They'll never bleed with the calipers on the wrong side. The bleeder screws need to be on the TOP of the caliper. Do over.

Basically I was searching for some ideas, like I spend so much time doing...alone...in my shop. I thought that your description of the leak as "very minute" is that it might just be sneaking by thru the threads of a 20+ yr. old tranny. A little thread sealer (or tape) would likely do the trick. You don't need to goop it up so much that it"d slip, drip or ooze into the tranny.

Avatar?? I thought that was a picture OF mountainman...as he said in a former post..."it's a Vegas thing". He/she can ride in my Jeep anytime.

Teflon tape. Thread sealer. An oil pan plug gasket...squishy washer...new bolt. Seems simple enough. :thwak: ...all in good fun mind you! I'm thinking you need some self affirmation today. Look in the mirror and repeat over and over: I'm good enough I'm smart enough ..and gosh darn it, people like me. :thumbsup:

OP...if your Jeep is registered in CA, you'd be very lucky to pass smog with no EGR, since it's an integral part of the inspection/functionality testing. If in AZ...I dunno.

Good God!! Surprised it was still running. Good luck.

Once I get the tip in, the rest is easy... :yes:

The vacuum lines are there...for a reason. What reason? I dunno. But they ARE there. They're not there for any shade tree mechanic to start ripping them out and capping them. If you are having issues, not passing smog, your heater or cruise control doesn't work or your idle is way high/low...ripping out vac lines is NOT going to help. As fiatslug points out, you live in CA. Not only will you not pass the visual inspection, you'll fail on the sniffer as well. Screwed up (by the owner) vac systems is one of the main reasons you'll flunk a CA smog test. Patching vac lines with duct tape, glue, galvanized pipe and sprinkler line is stupid. Buy the right parts, keep them in good shape, replace worn, cracked, rubbed, broken or corroded lines with new lines...you'll be glad you did. Side note: I moved out of what everyone "back there" calls California (AKA everybody lives at the beach, LA, Disneyland, Hollywood and moved to NORTHERN California.

Have you started it?

I don't think an XJ hose would work without some cutting. Good luck finding MJ specific filler hose at ANY parts store. Your state my vary, wherever you are. I searched the web for these...I live in California...the ones I found on-line, and they are out there, say that they can't be sold, or used in CA. Why, I dunno. They are molded hoses. They tweak just a bit so as not to kink. I made my own. Don't remember the size of the main hose, but the return/vent line is 5/8". The guy at NAPA found me some fuel rated hose. I took the whole neck assembly down to fit it up.

That's what I got. So maybe the tranny that I got is meant to mate up to the 242...I dunno, fellow Jeeper gave it to me with no specs. This is the story of my life

A commercial handle from ... ?

The speed sensor is on the rear of this tranny AFAIK, Kind of looks like a gray plug with a long shaft (2") that slides in to the trans. and a bolt to hold it in. It's got a tan wire which coincides with the tan speed sensor wire in the harness I don't have any wires, vac lines or connectors on or near the tailpiece. Oh, come on!! There is no one smarter than you IMHO, but AFAIK, yes. This plug is right at the top forward of the speedo. The wiring was hanging down, apparently got snagged by the front shaft and ripped out, which is why I'm even looking at it. Again, everything seems fine as far as driveabilty, in and out of 4x. The 231AMC was what was in it with the BA/10...maybe it was designed to mate to the Peugot, I dunno, it was stock. My 90 XJ has a 231J and looked identical to the 231AMC, all the same parts, switches etc. Also AFAIK the t-case is only engaged (and front axle powered) by linkage. No electronics involved, except for the light. I can't imagine that this little plug (black wire/red tracer and gray/yellow tracer) do much more than turn a light on/off, but I could be wrong. My front axle has the CAD locked over, no vac switch on this T/C and all the vac lines are gone now. And the light does NOT work...but I really don't need it. I was hoping I could somehow wire this in to the vac activated circuit for the light, but not my main priority. I have a mechanical speedo gear, original Renix speedo and cable...I do need to swap out the gear for the right one since I'm running 31's. The speedo is about 12% off according to my GPS and highway mile markers. Also low priority for me since it is not my DD. As mentioned above...I'm not really too concerned about the light. It'd be nice but not super important to me. Thanks for the replies gents. Looks like I'm looking at speed sensor (although I'm pretty sure that's taken care of) or the wiring just for the light. I now will dive into the franken-Jeep wiring diagrams. Arrgghh!

OK, I've never had a transfer case with wires on it. When I swapped the HO AW4 into the Renix truck, I had to get another t-case to mate to the tranny. I replaced the NP231AMC with the NP231J (I think the donor was a 94-96). There's a two wire connector coming off the transmission harness that plugs in to the t-case... What is that and what does it do.

Actually...I may buy it just for fun!