ParadiseMJ

You can use one out of an MJ or an XJ pre-1990. Junkyard item...easier to find an XJ. The tach, when you plug the new cluster in, should work right off. If you have idiot lights instead of gauges on the old cluster, you'll need to also get new senders for the oil pressure and coolant temp (the one at the back of the head). If you already have gauges instead of lights, you're good to go...plug n' play. Tip: When you're trying to disengage the speedo cable, climb under the truck and push the cable UP a little to give you more slack. Pull out the elctrical connectors (2). Then reach behind the old cluster, squeeze and pull the clip off. Installaton is reverse of removal. While you're back there it wouldn't hurt to check all the bulbs and clean and grease the connectors for the new cluster

I have Rusty's BPE's on my MJ. ade my own for the XJ with rear sway bar mounts. The Rustys are definitely beefier. The XJ sway bar modification are easier, and cheap (or free). I like them both just because I hate the bar pins and the fact that I can use different shocks. I pushed out the bar pins & bushings on the shocks and replaced with "normal" style shock bushings. Some aftermarket/performance shocks don't even come with the bar pins. I also don't ever have to worry about breaking the little bolts. Changing shocks now is like 5 minuts per shock...with one wrench.

Yep...ANYTHING!! http://cometcamper.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/sunraygypsy-026-lo-res.jpg

I looked around here for 2 years until I found one with a 4.0, 4x4, D44 (but 3.07 gears). Mine is an 88, 170K, absolutely zero rust, $400...delivered. It was some guys farm truck 100 or so miles from here. He said he parked it 2 years prior, in his barn, because it "just won't start, no matter what I try". I replaced the CPS the next day...been a strong runner ever since. Of course I'm not mentioning the $2K and countless days working on it.

The pink wire to the cab (dome) light connector should be constant hot. Do you have a connector for the dome light? Do you have a dash switch for a cargo light? This might help you: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36457-wiring-the-interior-lights/ Granted, these are instructions for the Euramatec lights, but to run anything but the stock fixture you'll have to cut the wires at the connector and re-wire it for aftermarket lighting. Do the switches in the door work? Are they connected? I had to spray some WD-40 on my door switches as they were rusted up after 2 years in the barn.

Don't get me wrong...there's nothing wrong with grandpas...since I AM one. I'm just in denial...my truck is a chick magnet, down at the Senior Center!!

The bug deflector and bed rails gotta go. Look way too grandpa. JMO You could also use a Ford Explorer 8.8 and swap or regear the front.

It's a frigid 48F here tonight :thumbsup:

Thanks. Thus my confusion. Heat is HOT when called for.

I have a buddy from Saskatoon :yes: When I'm wearing gloves and a hat...he's in shorts and a t-shirt. Thanks all...I guess I'll go get me a t-stat today

Thank you. I know I could go out and remove the two bolts and check the stat...problem is, I'm old and lazy. I don't want to go pull the cover unless I have to. I've never had a problem with any of my gauges on any of my Jeeps. Can anyone comment on the symptom??

My MJ set-up: 88 Pioneer 4.0L, AW4, Open cooling system, HD tranny cooler, etc. I have a ZJ HD fan clutch, and my e-fan on a switch in the cab. I have a 195 t-stat (Stant) and a 16# (NAPA) CAP It's been pretty cold here this winter, cold for here 20-30 lows. My truck is running ~160 under most driving conditions. If I am pulling a load, uphill, in 3rd, at ~45-50 mph I might get it up to 200 or so. As a test I put a piece of cardboard over the mech. fan side of the grill and took a little 10 mile round trip drive. It did get up to almost 210...but when I took the cardboard off...it cooled right back down to ~160. Is this a sign of a stuck open t-stat?? My heater works great, the coolant is nice, clear neon green, the overflow tank cycles properly from hot to cold, no leaks.

Would an alternate tank work...like a fuel cell? Mounted in the chopped bed? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290104/media/images

Check at the big stud on the starter relay, see if you have power there.

I've always thought so after working on XJ's and wondered why they didn't set it up on MJ's like in the picutre. I guess the factory didn't really think about clearances (or any hardcore wheeling) too much when I look at the shock mounts. I'd like an EZ alternative to the shock mounts too...just seems like such a low spot where they don't have to be!?!

Did you put any teflon tape or thread sealer on the sender? Since the sender is grounded on the block it would tend to interfere with a proper reading...just a shot!!?

Look for the tag on the side of the diff cover. Some still have a tag...and that truck looks clean enough to have one.

There should be a retaing nut on the pin.It's not clear in the FSM whether it's a threaded nut on a threaded shaft or a push on "nut", like a circular snap ring type thing. All I know is that when I pulled my BA/10 out that the whole assembly just fell out.

Like I said...that &*%# works...sorry about your landing...should have used the "quik-set" version!!

Ding! You've got mail!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwFhhyg-fbo I'm sad. At least we made 'em nervous. I guess we just gotta be happy with the World Series.

..

Only 35 minutes..?

Done! You'll be needing my e-mail...unless you still have it. As for the ruthless attack on my virility...(whine)...I worked at an oyster bar through my college days, so I do eat Bluepoints raw, much to the chagrin of my wife. I just can't choke down a quarter pound Pacific oyster...they're huge. So they're grilled with bacon, Hollandaise and Marie's habanero sauce from Belize. Game on. :cheers:

The Niners will be bringing the Lombardi trophy back to sunny California where it belongs!!! We'll be watching the game out on our deck while working on our tans...and BBQing oysters, fresh crab and wings. Go Niners!!! Just like the SF Giants brought home the World Series trophy twice for the last 3 years. http://sanfrancisco....trophy_tour.jsp Looks like our year!!!! Woe to the misanthropes (haters). Just sayin'

Have you looked at the TC linkage? Does the "feel of the wheel" change when you try to engage it. You can drive it on pavement to test it out...just not for long and not too fast. I agree that the CAD fix is the way to go if you can't get it to work. When I did mine it took me less than an hour, including cleaning it all up and slapping a coat of paint on it. BUT...fixing it NOW may be as simple as finding one or more vacuum tubes to the CAD servo that could be disconnected...or broken. The switch for the 4x4 light is also vacuum actuated so if the light isn't coming on it's likely that some...or all the lines are disconnected or that the vacuum switch on the transfer case is broken/missing etc. Time to crawl underneath and check it out.