ParadiseMJ

Yeah...that's what I said and then I clicked it: http://chico.craigslist.org/for/3640978185.html

Son of a B. Well, I found half my problem. Here is the picture of the cable the way I "thought" I had adjusted properly. Note the tag end of cable that "wasn't making contact" for the first inch or so. I had messed with this so many times...and I was sure it was adjusted properly...WRONG Here is the picture of the shaft thingie pushed all the way back in to the collar Note the "tag end" of cable that was there is now snugged up to the connector...no slack. Here is the picture of the TV adjuster...adjusted properly Just a bit of the way out....and just to make damn sure, I did it 3 times. Took it for a drive...WOW. I thought this thing was just a dog. Wrong again. So now that I have the throttle and shifting response I expected (even better actually) I still don't have kickdown. Since I thought I was dead on with the cable...NOT...and I also thought my TPS has been fine all this time, that's my next thing to tackle. I hate the idea of actually buying a new TPS so I'll do the sweep test with an analog meter and then go back to the DMM for the usual setup. Thanks so much. I will sleep tonite...except for that pesky TPS

OK so, here it is. Thank you SO much cruiser54. I can tell you without even looking at my Jeep that the two look different. Not different TB's...different adjustment on the adjuster. My slider is slid all the way out, this one is all the way in. The cable stops look further apart at first glance so, I'll go take a picture of what my set-up looks like and compare them. photo courtesy of cruiser54

Yep. That's two coats and I put 3 coats on the tailgate. FYI...wear gloves, clean up spills IMMEDIATELY, once it's dry it's there for good...

I did the Herculiner roll-on. Did not have to do twice the dose. I have a SWB truck. If you have a long bed, you might need an extra quart Just takle the prep part seriously, the hardest part IMHO. It works best on lightly sanded existing paint. Not recommended to sand it down to bare metal. I did mine on a Saturday...prep and rolled on...and let it dry all night and all day Sunday. Here's Some pics...still holding up well. Cost $110 total. This first picture kind of looks like the green came through, but it didn't, the bed was never green. That's just reflection, the original color was S - - T brown. Close-up shows how it looks. The first time you wash it, it loses the gloss effect and goes to flat/matte black.

Just an aside... When you replace brake components, you should replace both sides at the same time. Cylinders, calipers, shoes, pads, everything in tandem.

Yes..I have it committed to memory. When I serviced the tranny before I put it in I did inspect the cable, it's connection, mounting and seal. I did the servicing nice and slow and methodical so's I didn't miss anything. I was surprised how simple the cable set up was, especially out of the truck. I also lubed it it up and reinstalled it. I routed it in the most direct route to come out just like my XJ is set-up. I'm using the TB from my 88 Manual tranny. I had to tap the holes for the cable bracket installation as there were holes, just no threads inside. It's set up exactly the same as my XJ now, all tight and good. I did NOT measure the cable or compare it to my XJ cable except for the connection ends...it all looked good. Does anyone have a close-up picutre of a Renix throttle body and where it connects to the cable...that would most helpful. A picture is worth a thousand words. I don't think I have a thousand words in me today as I likely used up my word quota yesterday. Thanks again.

52077578 http://www.jeep4x4center.com/accelerator-cable-52077578.html I'm not doubting you...I checked the catalog...I think THEY have it wrong. One is for the tranny...one is for the gas pedal. Waiting to check the two P/N's at the dealer on Monday...meh, maybe Tuesday. Thanks for your help as always.

Good. So I don't feel alone. I have to take some Ny-Quil and hit the sack...got a head cold, it's affecting my obviously sketchy judgement. :ack:

To recap: I have a 94 XJ AW4...put in to an 88 MJ Pioneer. I'm trying to find out if I need to use a Renix TV cable or an HO TV cable and/or if there is actually a difference length wise. I have deduced that the cables are the same. Although I didn't actually whip it out and measure the thing (there's a sig line for you) I traced it along with a piece of rope...and then measured the rope...so from stem to stern I got 48.5". That's from the edge of where it enters the transmission to the very end of the cable. Margin of error...maybe an inch*. The first P/N I got from Don (hornbrod) was 52077578...and the corrected P/N was 52077578...since they were the same number they both referenced the accelerator cable for a 97-01 XJ AND for a 91-96 XJ. The other P/N 83503741 was for a Renix Throttle Cable (aka "throttle valve cable") but that one says it just for 87 through 90. *There are two factory crimped on cable stops on the cable at the throttle body connection. They are about 3" apart. One for minimum travel, and one for maximum travel. When I pivot the throttle lever on the TB to WOT there is about 1.5" more cable travel left, if I just pull the cable. Any ideas. Could I cut the cable at the TB and slide in a cable stop taking up that 1.5" of slop/slack...or are all the cable stops the same (3" apart)? I was trying to attempt explaining this to the guy at the NAPA and he just looked off into space...I know you're staring into space right now too . So, I guess the bottom line question is: Should the TV cable be tense or slack when I first rotate the throttle arm...is there 1.5" of slack before the cable stop comes into play and the TV cable starts to move? The TV adjustment is complete...the TPS specs out fine as well (if that makes a difference).

It'll help me when I climb under there in the morning. Thanks to both.

OK, so I've been searching the parts catalogs...Mopar, Crown, RockAuto, etc. for the numbers that Don supplied. Thanks. I also searched by part name and application. The 52077578 is an Accelerator cable by all accounts (1997-2001) Looks nothing like what is attached to my 94 AW4 what's on my 1990 XJ The 833503741 is a Throttle Valve cable (1987-1990) Looks just like the one I have. There is no mention of an in between part for 91-96. The lame-o description says the Renix cable is 16" long, 16" wide...now I'm even more confused. I suppose I should head down to the dealer, see if they have a separate TV cable for each OR just pull one out a Renix at the yard.

Sorry, just kidding. Would be a nice app... ...hello, computer dudes! :wrench:

Sorry, back to the question of the cable difference. If I have a 94 AW4, and thusly a 94 cable... ...and a Renix throttle body...and the Renix bracket... is the cable too long? or too short? I could not find anything about the length of the cable... There is about 1.5 inches of play from front to back stops of the cable when I turn the throttle. Short story...do I need a Renix cable??

Will do...thanks. Been having probs with this from the start...wish I understood it better. It runs, drives fine.

The premium for my MJ is $94 for 300K liability. One accident when I was 17. Haven't had a single ticket in 35 yrs. The key is not getting caught :thumbsup: ...and being "mature" :brows:

I ran across this thread on NAXJA. Did my best to hijack it. Thought better of it and decided to post my own question here. http://naxja.org/for...d.php?t=1096768 Is there is a difference in the length (or other spec) of a Renix era Throttle cable (88 specifically) and a post Renix (94 specifically) Throttle cable. I've adjusted my TPS and the dang thing runs and shifts fine. I've adjusted my TV cable thingie and throttle response is still fine. Just no kickdown when I punch it. So, I'm wondering if since the AW4 I swapped into my 88 MJ has a cable length issue.

In case any of you missed that...he said: Tabarnac she is beautiful! I also think the price is a bit expensive, but not necessarily too much, because I do not know the market in France ... If it is really cheaper than normal, I sautterais the above ... if I had the money ... I understand the smell of cities ... I was in Paris area quite a few years, and for a city so romanticized, the smoke of diesel in the city center almost made me vomit several times ... But certainly drive it, try the 4x4. Make sure the floors are solid. I drool a little seeing the miles ... mine has 477.000 km of abuse and is still reliable. The only time I took a left, this was on the eve scabby snow deeper than my doors. ...and yes, I'm a smart a$$...you got my number.

Sounds fantastic...get to work on that...let us know when it's ready.

Well, Frisko I don't know you are using an online translator...but your English is better than a good half of the posters on this site.

Yes, I know it CAN be done...but really a tranny jack, or even a HF motorcycle jack is far superior to a regular old floor jack IMHO. Just makes life alot easier if you're doing it alone.

Biotex has the basics down for sure but I IMPLORE you...get a tranny jack, or at least a motorcyle jack. You'll play hell trying to balance the tranny on a simple floor jack...just sayin'. I tried it that way first...fell off twice. I borrowed a tranny jack. Made allllll the difference.

A drop a day...after you've turned it off doesn't sound like a lot. Actually it leaks each time you push in the clutch. There is a bit of a difference in the urgency of a drop of motor oil, where you have easily a quart to spare and clutch fluid, where you've only got a 1/4 cup to spare. A drop a day from the rear main/valve cover/OFA is just sweating, and a non issue. My clutch slave was leaking about 1/4 cup a week. It gave me shifting problems after the level went down 1/2" in the M/C Unless you want to check it everyday it sounds like time for a new slave.

That's right Eagle...I have a 90 and an 88. My knowledge base is mostly limited to those years. The speedo and electric gauges do not work off the same system. The speedo is operated by a cable, not electric. Connctor integrity and/or cleaning in order. Speedo cable firmly engaged in T-case AND at back of cluster.

So when do you leave for Estonia?? http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=wl 1 Krone is worth 18 cents US