ParadiseMJ

The rollover valves installed fairly easily for me...I did use some lube on the grommet...BUT, once I had it in, I wasn't sure I had it in, so I pulled it back out and the little metal part at the end popped off...and in to the tank. It's still in there and after four years it hasn't caused any issues. I reused the metal part off of the old valve. Lesson learned, once it's in...don't pull it out... There's a sig line for you.

OK MJ folks, 88 MJ, AW4, 4.0L D44 LSD. I did the brakes all around about 6 months ago. They seemed to work fine...although a little weak. Nice pedal and response, I bled the prop valve per the instructions I've read on here. I thought I had done the adjustment fine...but...apparently I did NOT. I grew up on drum brakes, so I know how they go together, I'm just a tad confused. Anyhoo, I went about the task of checking and re-adjusting them today. By the way the Chilton manual totally sucks for Cherokee/Comanche brake instructions. There's no decent picture of the brakes. So I finally got the thing turned to where I could not move the wheel by hand...then...it says to back it off 15-20 turns. Does that mean "revolutions" or stabs (a stab = about 1/8 turn). That seems excessive. So, frustrated agan I took the wheel and the drum off. 15-20 stabs = ~ 2 to 2.5 full revolutions of that star wheel, which almost completely closes the adjuster. I did what it said to do, put the drum and wheel back on, with the rear jacked up, I started the Jeep, put it in D and the rear wheels started going...but applying the brakes barely stopped the wheel, and when I gave it a tiny bit of gas, the wheel started going again. So, I surmised that it was "backed off" way too much. I cranked it back to solid, and backed it off about 5 stabs, til I could move the wheel with only a tiny bit of drag. So, just as a point of info, before I do the other wheel (the same way): Is that right??

The RMS on my XJ is what got me started on this crazy journey. They told me the part was $15.00 and the labor was $650.00. I could not live with that, so I got a manual, got on a Jeep forum and asked how it's done. I had only minimally worked on any vehicle before that 10 yrs ago. I spent a whole day doing it...but it was worth it...I don't make $650 a day. Time to get dirty.

Two things. Whole thing might be fixed with a new headlight switch. Have you checked your flasher on the fuse block under the dash (round, relay type thing)...there should be two, one for blinkers, one for emergency flashers. Swap them and see if one works for the other.

...I'm waiting for the post in Tech saying "Why won't my Jeep start" or "Jeep running funny after jacka$$ pool fun??" I know I'm a grumpy old geezer, but...really?? At least it was fun to watch.

I went to the dump (er, "Landfill") and a guy came up to me and asked me why I put Jeep badges on my Ranger...I told him the badges came from the Jeep factory "Does that thing actually have 4 wheel drive??" He was driving a Sonoma, with 20" wheels.

This is great... I ordered ~$200 in parts last night...got this code today...e-mailed them this afternoon to ask if I could apply the code to my order. They did. That's nice customer service!!

I've tinkered away on this for the last 3-4 years, between work, working my property, taking care of my father-in-law, I've had precious little time to do any big projects on my truck. I put the AW4 in back a few months ago and spent a couple weeks working all the bugs out. Swapping from 5 speed Peugot (Renix) to an AW4 (HO) was a wiring challenge. I had to separate all the wires coming from the TCU to jive with the wiring in the Jeep and spent ALOT of time LEARNING to read wiring diagrams and then making it happen. I finally got the exhaust in and have no more tickety tick at throttle. Now I can gear up to replace most of the brake lines, upgrade the booster and do the prop valve delete before I take it out for my first reasonably long road trip...to Yellowstone/Jackson Hole area. It's still NOT my DD, but only because of mileage. My commuter car gets 33 MPG and the MJ gets 16-18, so it adds up driving 300+ miles a week.

Those are tank vents...aka rollover valves. The individual vac lines come together in a T and go to the charcoal cannister, then vented into the intake manifold. someone likely tried to replace them and dropped it in to the tank. They really don't affect the driveability, but they are required for emissions testing...at least they are in California...AND they also keep fuel from pouring out if the Jeep rolls over...just sayin'

Only for automatics. There are no coolant lines on a manual transmission. ....and no pumps to move lubricant/oil

My old XJ, 90, 4.0, AW4...now my son's XJ...has been mostly sitting for the last year. Short trips, 'round town a bit, being started and run up to temp every week or so. He had to register it, and get it smogged. Failed smog on CO. Allowed measurment (passing) is 1.0 Measured amount 2.16 (failed) at idle. Measured amount 2.90 at 2500 rpm (failed) "Gross Polluter" staus So, now he has to take it to a Gross Polluter station to get it smogged and finally register it. It passed all the other tests with great numbers, vacuum, EGR, NoX, etc. all good. My question: Would the Jeep virtually sitting for a year have an effect on the CO levels if he just started it, and then drove only about 2 miles to smog it without the thing ever getting really up to temp? It starts, runs and drives like a champ, no sign of trouble, decent mileage. Would getting it out on the highway and "blowing it out" for a hundred or so miles solve my problem...or does high CO indicate a specific problem??

Retrofitting the studs is not too difficult. The old studs usually just tap out, the new (longer) studs can be "pulled' ON using a sacrificial 1/2"x20 lug not and a few washers. I did all 20 on my MJ in an afternoon. A sweaty afternoon, but an afternoon just the same.

I used J-bolts on either side side of the box/bed so I didn't have to drill any holes in the bed. I slid a short piece of 3/8" hose over the J as a sort of "bushing" so it doesn't rattle.

You could probably pop one off a similar year XJ/MJ or even ZJ (?) for $5 or so. If you can screw it off/on that's what I'd do. Cheap, easy and NOW is always better. Come to think of it, that's how I met my wife.

You need MJ brackets because of the topography of the floor...which is completely different than the topography of the XJ floor...regardless of the seats. With MJ brackets you could very well adapt just about any seat that would fit with...like you said, some ingenuity, and flat or angle stock and some nuts and bolts. Without the brackets, nothing will sit flat at the top of the bracket.

I can get 4-door XJ buckets all day at the JY for $25 each. The ones in my MJ are clean XJ 2 door seats...and I mounted them on my bench seat brackets (as Pete said...same bracket)...so $150, for ripped 4 door buckets that don't fold forward, not for my money...BUT, I'm sure there is someone out there who doesn't know how to do the swapping and has more money than brai...er...I mean time.

I have used ADHESIVE black RTV, still stuck tight after 4 yrs. I also saw a tube some "Auto Emblem Adhesive" at AutoZone the other day... The 3M double sided tape is very sticky and AFAIK is the stock adhesive method.

Just a week or so ago I said in a post that we didn't get tornadoes, floods or earthquakes around here. So as I was getting ready to put everybody to bed last night...the house started shaking, all the glasses plates and bobbleheads were going to town. Had a bit of a quake...5.9...35 miles away. The walls went back and forth, the floor went up and down, the cat ran, the dogs barked. I haven't been in a quake in 20 yrs. No damage here, but stores and bars lost alot of bottles, we lost a couple plates, a couple glasses hit the floor....and we stayed up an extra hour listening to the news and feeling little tremors afterwards. Just sayin'...never think it's not gonna happen...just then is when it will...what EVER it is !! Be prepared for anything.

Ouch Don, Sorry to hear, I feel your pain. When I was 16, my cousin and I helped my uncle clear some propertry and was doing the same as you described, cutting trees and VINES that looked just like ...well, vines. The vines were poison oak. We we're also throwing it all together in burn piles and torching it. Day done, we headed home, went to bed, exhausted. I woke up the next morning with my eyes swollen shut and blisters all over my mouth, nose, ears and had a hard time breathing...because of the smoke. I was VERY sick for a week, I was IN the hospital for 5 or 6 days. I missed 3 weeks of school. My skin looked and felt like a leather couch for about 6 weeks. Doctors said I could've died, since I breathed in the smoke, I came away with lifelong athsma. BUT...apparently my body developed an immunity to poison oak. I live in profuse poison oak country and have for over 30 years and have NEVER gotten it since. I even made a bet with a guy when I was 23-24, that I would not get it even if I rubbed a leaf on my arm. So we both rubbed a leaf on our arm. He got PO all over his arm and neck. I didn't even get a bit of it. I don't think I'd use it for emergency TP and not likely to go tromping through it on purpose, but I don't really worry about getting it anymore. I also know what the vines, berries, stems and summer and fall phase of the leaves look like. What purpose it has, who knows...but deer and cattle eat it. Animals, including my dogs/cats don't get it even after running through it all day, it's just a people thing. Old native-American remedy that actually WORKS is to make a tea out of manzanita leaves and soak towels in it, wring them out, and lay them on your skin. Also, Colloidal Oatmeal (Aveeno) works real good in a bathtub and cool towels soaked in tea (regular old Lipton tea) and wrung out will give you some relief. Hope you're feeling better soon. Good Luck

Downpipe mod ?? Yeah, downpipe mod?? I'm very interested since I have the whole thing apart. Side note: At RockAuto there are 4 TPS's said to fit a Renix, ranging in price from $38 to $95...which one?? the $38 one and the $95 one are from the same manufacturer? I

So far I agree. I had four tailgates at one point. All but 3 had either a shot latch, a big dent, one had two .45 holes in it...I thought I'd use that one, but the one I used has a small crease in it. I've not bee able to fine a clean one. I have a Comanche badge, two command-trac badges. If you want them, PM me.

Really...how's the fit? Easy install?? and from where? $150 is a great price.

Yeah, I was thinking that clogging or deteriortation would start at the front, logically. Like I said, from the outside it looks like it's as old as the hills (like me). The condition of the downpipe is iffy too, I may need to bite the bullet yet again. Furk!! CA legal catalytic converters are a tad more $$ than the OTHER 49 states...AND Puerto Rico!! Damn Gold Rush!!

I was looking IN to the cat from the muffler end. Flow restriction is possible, just wanted to know if I looked INside could I see anything significant. I already can see that it looks nasty from the OUTside.