ParadiseMJ

The shaft should spin freely in the open position (and not spin at all when moving). I had what I thought was bad axle u-joints, which after much of the same diagnostics, turned out to be a loose wheel...the lugs were only finger tight. Just throwing that out there. I've also had a slightly bent dust shield that was just barely rubbing the rotor, but making a lot of noise.

The engine internals are squeaky clean. System has been flushed including the block drain twice in the last 6 mos. Coolant is bright green and clear. Oil that is 2 months old is still a nice clear amber color. I'm just going to throw a new rad cap on it today and see what happens...If it still overheats I'll just push the%$&*@# thing off our local convenient cliff and collect the insurance.

OK, so I went and "rented" a cap/cooling system pressure tester. Here's my results: The cap test: The adapter looks the same on both ends, but with it on one way the pressure holds steady for 2-3 minutes. When I flip it around the pressure drops about 1-2 psi per 30 seconds. So, one way the cap looks fine, the other way it's bad, but both ends look the same and measure the same from lip to sealing surface. I'm confused. Looks like the cap is marginal anyway. The system test: With the engine off, it holds 18 lbs pressure...for over an hour. With the engine on, idling the pressure slowly rises (about 5 minutes) along with the temp gauge...I assume that's normal. With the engine at temp and at 2K rpm the pressure rises to 20-25 psi, before I turn it off, then it holds that pressure and gradually decrease as it cools. The instructions say that a vibrating needle indicates a compression leak...no vibrating. But the fact that it's building to over 20 psi at speed worries me a bit. Is there something that jumps out at you? Is the rising pressure (up and over 20 psi) an indication of a small, seeping compression leak? Or is that normal, if the cap farts a little as you're cruising along does that keep the pressure at a normal rate, or does that just build up so much that I'd make the cap just "let go"? I'd really hate to pull it all apart an replace the head gasket or worse, just to find out everything is OK to begin with...how is the head gasket/head definitively ruled out as an issue??

Well, CRAP I had thought I did not have a head gasket issue, but TODAY I went to the dump, hauling my trailer full of junk. It's all downhill from here so it was running right at temp, about 195. Then I left there and went to Home Depot, got a load of fence boards. Left there and headed up the hill...about 7 miles. Halfway up it started getting hot, and climbed up just before the line before red line, even with the e-fan on. So, I pulled over, the overflow tank was just bubbling away and overflowing coolant (I have an open system, so it's not a pressure bottle. So, I said...Well, CRAP, or something like that !! Is there ANY other reason that my cooling system would be pressurized enough to spew coolant past the cap?? There is no oil in water or vice versa, so I'm thinking that the head gasket is the culprit and I have a small leak from a cylinder into a coolant gallery...does that sound about right??

Yes. Non adjustable. Way back 3 years ago I had a dizzy "whirr" so I replaced the dizzy. Took me 3 stabs to get it indexed right and as far as the engine goes...it runs smooth, idles at ~750-800 rpm. smoothly. I also replaced the harmonic balancer. ...and I agree that it may be time to start looking at OTHER systems, but how would timing make it run hot ??

It did overheat, even when it had the BA-10 in it. It also had the 31's. Don't think 31's are a deal breaker for a D44 with 3.07's...but since I won't be doing the Rubicon anytime soon...anyhoo, the AW4 has never been quite right (which I can only attribute to my OWN work) electronically. I still can't get a reading on the TPS. Tried to, drove it, tried, drove, and so on. But still, driving down the highway it seems to do fine. I did all the cooling system swapping before, and it ran a some cooler. My trans cooler is directly in front of the e-fan.. .in front of the radiator. Once it starts climbing, even the e-fan only helps a little. I'll read your thread and see if I missed something, but it sure is frustrating.

There is no rust in the system. The coolant is bright green, no sign of rust, oil or contamination. I have no heater valve, the cooling system was swapped over to an open system from the get go when I built it. The water pump is relatively new (miles wise) and coolant is circulating well. That is the reason I hadn't mentioned the water pump...and it is the correct R flow pump. Every pump I've had in any of my Jeeps have been fine on the impellers. So...I've fixed and tested the following within the last 2,000 miles months: I'm not just throwing parts at it...this has all been part of the total build. New radiator Water pump Hoses, upper, lower, heaters (and just the other day a new LOWER hose with a spring in it [thanks again Cracker]) T-stat (195) twice New t-stat housing (the old one had a hairline crack in it) New catalytic converter, it was partially clogged New downpipe flange donut New temp sender New rad cap (Super-stat 16 lb.) Flush & fill with new coolant, twice Ext. Tranny cooler 1997 ten blade curved e-fan...on a switch Harmonic Balancer Alternator P/S pump ...A/C is not operable at the moment, so it's not adding any heat to the mix. How hot does it get? Anywhere from just barely over the 210 mark to just before red-line. Test says no exhaust gases in coolant. I'm down to this: I swapped in an AW4 after the BA-10 gave up the ghost. So, my gearing is still 3.07's...I'm also running 31" tires. What I'm thinking is that the engine has to work too hard to move those axles, so it's doggy, and when it's doggy is when it gets hot.

I've had great luck with Rustoleum clearcoat in the rattle can. The same coating has been on my wheels for 4 yrs now. No chipping, pitting or peeling. All about the prep.

Junkyard is cheap! A good bit of my truck is junkyard parts, chrome trim included. There's this one too! Right years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12419-14-Rugged-Ridge-Silver-Right-Headlight-Bezel-JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-1991-1996-/200898954051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec682c343&vxp=mtr

Sooo, took my trip, still overheating under load on hiway. I got a hose with a spring...from another member. Just installed tonight. will be taking it for test drive tomorrow night. Results few and far between cause it's not my DD and I gotta take the commuter to work so don't get much of a chance to drive it any distance :(

Now you can add "gall bladder delete" to the mods on your sig line. Hang in there, you'll be happier on Monday night.

Renix head here... ...I guess I'm not as smart as the average bear...just call me Boo-Boo. Other than that I'm a regular walking Wikipedia and I know all the words to the big 1960's Hollywood musical show tunes.

1.) The headlights (stock ones anyway) have the word TOP embossed on the top. All the lettering on the bulb should be oriented thusly. The only reason that they would be installed upside down is the PO did not know what he was doing...or can't read (not even upside down or backwards). Top is Top 2.) The maintenance required module can be replaced without removing the bulb if you truly want to keep your truck "stock". You should remove the bulb only if you think you can remember to replace you O2 sensor every 85K or so. 3.) With your "smarter than average" attitude, I'm sure your posts will continue to be unanswered and ignored for days on end. Jumping back bad on well meaning advice after 3 whole posts is not going to win you any friends here.

Doh! I just used my special tool (picture below) to determine the size of my spacers. They're 1.5" It's been awhile since I first installed them. 6-7 yrs.

I tried to drill thru 1 (one) new leaf spring. I was told I needed a carbide tip bit...not. Called a couple machine shops...no go. I got about half way thru before the carbide tip was useless.

155,000-ish miles on the LJ. Wheel spacers have the same effect as putting on rims with low backspacing. Regardless, the wheel bearings will be fine as long as they are not run at one end of the extreme. What really kills bearings is lots of off road driving and constantly dunking them into mud. I've had 2" spider trax on my MJ, but not to even the wheel line, just for rubbing and it looks cooler (even more important!!) I argued the same point back and forth "on another forum". I didn't see the difference in stress on the bearings if the center of the wheel is in the same spot if I reduced the backspacing by 2". I had originally installed them on my XJ, but I bought some Crager wheels for it and gave the XJ to my son. I kept the stock wheels and the spacers. 100K on the XJ after spacers, they've been on my MJ for 3 yrs. I also thought the lugs were too short, so I replaced all 20 with 1/2" longer studs.

:agree: Cut it. You're going to have to replace it anyway

I just saw this on the national news...recognized your Charger right off

PM(s) sent. Thank you.

Won't catch fire . Well, at least that's a plus Happy 4th :USAflag:

:shake: I've done everything I could do to make my Jeeps NOT look like my Grandpa's Jeep, and I'm a Grandpa!!! Just one opinion among the crowd...FUGLY. If it's not supposed to be a real woody why would anyone put fake wood on it??

http://www.800-923-jeep.com/techCorner/axle_id.cfm

Yes...that's the color of Belize...for sure.

I can attest personally...and ONLY in my MJ, that when the light goes on telling me I'm almost out of gas, I still have almost 4 gallons in the tank. My XJ only has ~ 2.5 gallons in the tank when the light goes on. Basically the same sending unit (basically), but it's placed in a different spot on the tank (and on the truck) and varies depending on the way it's parked (up or down, right slope, left slope or level). Not an exact science.

BEFORE $#it Brown with random multicolor primer spots...I called it "Calico", right out of the storage barn in Dairyville, CA (no kidding) AFTER Rustoleum "Metalflake" (Metallic) Green ...and by the way...it's a rattlecan job, with rattlecan clear coat. When I was putting it together I wasn't about to put a 2K paint job on it. When I finally get it painted for good, I'll use the same color. And if anyone wants to steal my identity by using my license plate, be warned I'm broke and have a crappy credit score!!! So if you think you're man enough to use my name as an alias...I pity you.