ParadiseMJ

Never seen that commercial...it looks like Beavis & Butthead :thumbsup:

In Photobucket: Go to your photo/video library. Select the video...but don't open it. In the upper right hand corner of the video file, there's a little "gear" looking thing. Right click on that. A menu screen will appear that, at the bottom of that it will say "get links". Click on that, another menu screen appears, at the bottom it says IMG code, click on that and it will say "copied". Then go back to your post in CC. Click on the main screen once, then right click and hit PASTE. The *img* code will appear, not the video, but when you POST your post it will appear. If it does not come up when you post it, you can go to edit and try it all over again. Hope I explained that OK...good luck.

I put mine on my camper shell...I sold the shell...I need a new one when I get 'round to it.

I'm not an employee of Rock Auto or any affiliate. My friends or relatives don't work there or own any stock in anything associated with them...so I have nothing to gain by plugging them...that being said: I can't say enough good things about the way they handled my recent order(s). Easy to find stuff, GREAT prices, immediate shipping. I saved over $90 on parts that cost a total of $225, over any local parts store and got name brand stuff, no junk. I had to wait a few days for it to get here but I was not in a huge hurry anyway. I ordered it on Saturday, I had it in my hand on Wednesday. I've bought stuff from them over the years one bit at a time, but the last order included 9 separate parts for my MJ. One of the items was slightly damaged (I could have worked with it but I decided to call customer service anyway) by the postal carrier and they (RA) jumped right on it sending me a replacement via next day express service, and it was truly here the next day. Rock Auto Rocks

Wow... That's a lot of typing. I'm pretty familiar with the thermostat. I did not install the thermostat backwards. I always test my stats. The present stat is working fine.

Thanks...I got the new bolts, so I already cut the heads off a few. I wish I hadn't "persuaded" my sons to get out of the house so soon (I mean after all, they were only 23)...I need some muscle.

It's a Jeep, an automatic chick magnet. It's easy to work on. Parts are cheap There are TONS of possible mods/variations...no two are really alike There are more S-10's, Dakotas and Rangers trashed and thrown away in junkyards...People keep 'em Nobody else has one...a decent one anyway...not around here.

OK...I take this back. On a stock 88 t-stat housing it IS possible to put the stat in backwards. I've been running a 94 housing in my 88...I found that it had quite a bit of pitting in the neck, so I ordered a new housing. The "knob" on the 88 is larger and allows for the t-stat to go in either way. BUT, I did have it in the right way.

Thanks for the info. The machinist said the head and valves looked great. Mag'fluxed, no cracks. I asked him about the valves he said they looked fine and spec'd out fine. I'll be replacing the valve guide seals and putting it all back together. My first step when my budget recovers is to put smaller tires, 235's, on it until I can gear it properly. It seems like alI this has all been a major pain, but I've learned a lot, thanks to all y'all, and the luxury of time (as opposed to money). I've done a fair bit of wrenching in the past but never really got "inside" of an engine except a Volkswagen 1600 I rebuilt back in the day. Makes the whole "Jeep Thing" even more interesting. Thanks again, I will definitely report back on this WHEN it's all resolved.

That'd work too. Whatever grounds it is good. It will warm up a lot faster if you drive it...but it will circulate anyway via the pump. It starts out at 100F so it should register close to that depending on YOUR climate/ambient temp.

Nope. Only goes in one way. Spring IN. The t-stat housing won't let it go in the other way (unless I use a BFH) :brows:

I thought I'd remove the manifold to replace the gasket anyway. I read that removing the head WITH the manifold was OK, so I surmised that it would be easier to re-install it like that...just a thought.

So, When replacing my head, is it OK to bolt the manifolds to it before putting the head back on. As in, get the thing all torqued in before lining everything up. Seems like it would be easier to install the manifold that way, without being a contortionist for the last nut in the back. Other than the weight, and the bulk of it all, is there any reason NOT to do it this way??

It's apart right now, replacing the head gasket, as the 5th ex. gas test found some gases in the coolant. After I pulled the head I found about 1/4" of coolant in #6. The leak into the coolant gallery is small, compression is good, no prob. with engine pressure tests (except for the #6 cyl ultimately being wet. I do understand however that I'm under geared for 31's or even the AW4. I do downshift to 3rd usually when pulling the hill home or anytime I'm towing my little trailer. I will try those things when I get it put back together and on the road after this weekend. Thanks

I mounted the sender on the steel line. The single wire sender grounds through the steel line...and then the tranny itself. It's kind of problematic to add a ground, this was much easier. I cut the steel lines from the tranny and flared the ends, put brass flare fittings on the ends with hose barbs. I eliminated the metal line past this point. It's all rubber hoses from here to the cooler and back. I have the same set up on both Jeeps. All the fittings I found at ACE hardware. If you're cutting the steel lines, use a small tubing cutter and de-burr the ends to avoid the shavings going in to the trans system. Note the date on this picture. Have not had a single drip out of this since then.

If his is anything like mine there's not enough room for even a box end...let alone enough metal to grab on to. I agree with cut and replace.

The ground for the trailer wiring can go to ANY spot on the frame or body. I was just telling you where the ground for the tails and fuel pump are (they share the ground). It CAN go to the taillight ground...but not necessary...just ground it somewhere.

Those are all in the right place for trailer wiring. If your splicing in a 4 flat wire connector, you'll have to determine what each of those 3 goes to. The fourth wire is usually the ground (necessary). /the grounding spot for all your taillights AND your fuel pump is in the driver side taillight bucket. I don't know the colors off hand, but they could really be ANY color. I see trailer wiring hanging off just about every truck with a hitch...new trucks as well as old beaters...and people just EXPECT it to work without any rhyme or reason. Like magic!! Like I said before, do it right, keep it tight. A big mass of wire wrapped around your trailer hitch or hanging an inch off the ground not only LOOKS like crap, it's likely that it was poorly done. Buy a trailer wiring kit for a 4 flat connector (most common, easiest, cheapest). There's a vehicle side and a trailer side, just get the vehicle side unless you're also wiring up a trailer. Follow the directions. Follow those wires BACK to where they connect to the harness...it's probably just hacked in somewhere along the line....remove the old wires and re-do from there. Don't just "connect" the wires, solder them, either heat shrink them or wrap securely with electrical tape. Trim them down to just the length you need and secure them. If you do it "right" you'll never have to worry about your trailer lights again.

Follow those back into the wiring harness. Use a meter to see what each wire is doing. Blinkers, tails, brakes. Trailer wiring is simple, yet can screw up OTHER wiring.(tail lights, grounds etc.if hacked in.). If done right and tight, you'll never have to worry about it again...but the circuits are all right there.

I snagged a receiver hitch off an MJ at the junkyard, Class III, full frame mount. It was bolted to a long bed, to the bottom of the frame just aft of the leaf eyes. However, I have a short bed...there are holes there...but nothing lined up, and the bolt holes are directly above the leaf eye and shackle with only about 3/4" clearance. I sold it. I wish I had modified that one. The frame rails are IIRC, 41.5" apart. I have not found anything even close since then, not even off a big truck...doh!! Everything I've seen has me believing I'd have to either make one...or have it made, custom. BUT....Google, Jeep Comanche REAR hitch. See what comes up. They're out there somewhere, but it seems any info on them faded away a few years ago.

No, at least not the Peugot. When I swapped out the BA 10/5 for the AW4 (4x4) I had the drive shaft shortened by 1.25". I have a D44.

I have always rented jetskis when I wanted to ride. Tahoe banned 2 strokes so several guys around here either had to upgrade or just use it on other nearby lakes. Lake cops on Lake Oroville DO hate jet skis. I've rented them on the Columbia River, Tahoe, and other lakes...I don't have payments, don't have to store it, don't have to maintain it or tow it. Here are my lake AND river rides. Great on gas.

Just my lame opinion...but I have never liked ANY stepside. Limited space, Campers tops are too small or don't fit, The new stepsides are super fugly. They tried to make the lines smooth...but it just looks like poo. A stepside bed is small anyway, making it smaller is, well...not MY cup of tea.

LOL...I don't live at the beach...

A bit of an update. replacing the headgasket. It was ALOT easier than I had been dreading. I just had to go slow, and tag & bag everything. So far no broken bolts or anything like that. Inside the valve cover was - pristine...very clean, shiny in fact Rocker arms, other hardware - same - shiny clean Push rods - same - I used the old pool cue method - rolling each on flat surface, none bent. Pulled the spark plugs - all look great EXCEPT for #6...it was wet, with coolant. Pulled the manifolds, ports also pristine clean...except #6 Pulled the head. A bit of carbon on the piston tops, all about the same color. The gasket "looks" pretty good...except #6 cylinder had about 1/4" of coolant in it. Re-inspected the gasket. There is a very small breach (it's not broken) in the #6 to coolant gallery...we're talking 1/16". Another interesting find was that the t-stat housing neck, the large one, was pitted, pretty much all the way around...something I had missed before...it had never leaked, just interesting enough for me to buy a new housing.