ParadiseMJ

I'd say C...and possibly A. I don't think an 88 has a purge valve solenoid. The cannister is just a filter and passively reintroduces the fumes from the fuel tank into the intake to re-burn. I'd go back over all my vac lines and see what I left disconnected.

So, tiny hi-jack. I installed a ZJ V8 tie rod in my sons XJ...all measurements the same. Now it pulls right a bit and the wheel is off kilter...just adjust the draglink??

First the expense of re-gearing for me is prohibitive. Since I have NO CLUE :dunno: how to do it, I'd have to pay someone to do it + parts. I think that it could do fine with an axle already geared...even if it's not a 44. My XJ has a towing package as well...but has a 35. I'm on the hunt for a 44 (or something AS strong) with the right gearing...depends on what I find...on the cheap. Secondly, Don, there are 31 x 10.5's on it now, BFG A/T KO's.

My current set-up: 88 MJ AW4 D44 rear/D30 front (3.07 gears) I just swapped out my Peugot for an AW4 and the result is it's just OK. I'd like to re-gear/re-axle. I like having the D44 but with the 3.07 gears it's rather gutless. The throttle response is OK, the TV cable is adjusted properly. My XJ has a D35 with 3.55 gears and 265R75X15's (31's). It's pretty peppy but I know it lacks real "torque" or power. The XJ with the D35 has served me well for over 10 years with only regular maintenance both as a DD and a weekend warrior. I can also tow a medium/small trailer without much effort. For a truck that is used only occasionally off road, more on just gravel/dirt road/trails, and in the winter here and there on snowy roads, and most of all on the highway what's my best gear ratio? 3.55? 4.10? ...and so on. I don't need a "fast" truck, but I do want it to pull a small utility or boat trailer up hills without doggin' it half way up. I have an HD tranny cooler installed on it as well. I'd also like to know what kind of modifcation is necessary for an 8.25 or 8.8 (i.e. spring perches, yoke, shaft, etc.). I'd like a disc brake rear axle too, but not absolutely necessary. I will be likely pulling what I need from a yard. I will NOT be re-gearing my present axles. I will not be going SOA either.

I guess I've been warned! :dunce:

Oops, Edited the first post. Thos are, in fact the actual pictures of before and after. I meant to take pictures all along, but never did. ...and the dates are a year off on my cheapo camera. Sorry. :bowdown: But still hard to tell the difference, eh?

Well, the AW4 swap is done and I thought I'd post a before and after picture. With a BA-10 With the AW4 Hard to tell isn't it.

Ambient temperature aside, it's doing it now because your cap can't hold pressure, and now has air in the system. 10 degrees outside doesn't mean squat to a 200+ degree engine. It's all about the pressure.

The hose goes to the "crotch vent" in your knee panel. It just slips on to the vent tube just before you re-install the lower panel.

I thought my CCV was clear too. When I pulled the VC apart I found this. Looks like a disease or something. The orofice was puckered shut. This is what the inside of the CCV should look like. The metered orofice is 2.5 mm. Cruisers mod works nice, I just did it on the VC towers on my XJ.

I matched my disintegrated bushings & spacers with some nylon ones that fit like a glove at ACE hardware. Work fine now.

Does anyone know if there is a "kit" to seal up my power steering pump reservoir on my XJ. It is leaking from the "grommet" at the return line elbow on the reservoir. The pump itself is fine, only about 2K miles old, but it looks like the grommet has a tiny nick in it where the juice is leaking.

I removed the whole assby. and put in a wide auto brake pedal. The bracket was a B@#*& to get at. I stuck with the old style brake light switch, I had to drill/punch out the mounting stud in the pedal arm to put the old style bolt, bushings and spacers so the switch would work. I also put in a new master cylinder from my own shop stash & booster from a 96(?)ZJ. Been meaning to get that done too. If anybody needs a manual clutch and brake pedal, speak now, or it's off to the dump in the next day or two. I also ditched all the clutch m/c and associated hoses, covered the hole with a home made plate. No more worries about the fuse box getting melted. I also have a 231 AMC 21 spline vacuum t-case that I can't seem to even give away on CL. There are so many old XJ's around here that it's hard to believe I can't give it to a deserving Jeeper.

Okie dokie, It's time to put this thread to bed. My truck is now an automatic. I finished putting together wiring for the TCU. Followed the TCU wires to the C101 connecter and spliced them in there, thanks you guys. No smoke, no hiccups, no hesitation. It was really so easy I can't believe it. I spent alot of time um...er...ummm...(over)thinking about it. It took about 15 minutes to actually do it. Thanks again guys. It drives sooo smooth, shifts on queue, TC locks up, very happy now. Axles are next, but no work on it for a while...I have an XJ to fix.

Thanks. Tearing into it this wknd. when it's cooler...like 100

I've had to re-read this a couple times before I start hacking wires. Cruiser, does that mean any splicing I do should be done at the C101 connector?? I'm wondering about some sort of back feed frying my TCU or worse. There are only 2 power wires to the TCU, one battery (red) and one ignition (big yellow). So can I get the battery from...the battery...and the ignition from the big yellow wire in the harness?

Well, what do I have to lose...it's either a running 4x4 Jeep Comanche, or an ivy planter. I've learned alot. This is where the faith and trust (and a little luck) comes in.

I've separated it all out. The red TCU battery supply @ D14..the yellow ignition @ D16...found the TPS 3 @ D1, D2 and D3 way back in the harness. All laid out to splice tomorrow. All the grounds go to the oil dipstick. Then I'll turn the thing on and wait with the fire extinguisher. :yes: Thanks to both of you. :clapping:

Thanks guys, I have some form of an 88 FSM ZIP file on my desktop at home (at work now). I'll get in to that today. It's hotter than hades out there today (106 ) and very smoky from all the fires, so maybe I'll concentrate on some indoor book work. I have been working off the wiring diagrams in the Chilton book...and so far, they're proving to be OK but whoever indexed them ought to be shot. It's like calling a government office, see 14, see 110, see 11, see 75, then back to 14 arrrgh :fs1: I appreciate the input albeit my confusing explanation. :bowdown:

Right... that's what has me confused. I removed the TPS with the flat connector from the throttle body and added the square TPS like on my XJ. The new TPS (also a RENIX TPS) has two sets of wires and 2 connectors on it. They both plug in to the 2 connectors from the harness...just like on my XJ. Previously the square connecter was just sitting there, unplugged, and the flat connecter was plugged in to the manual TPS. I imagine the wires from the flat plug go to the ECU. ...and back to my problem. Would the TPS 3...orange, gray, red actually GO somewhere, since there was never a TCU in there or would they just be butted off inside the harness, waiting for an amateur like me to splice them up to the AW4 TCU and make everything magically work like it should?

The ECU is original, 88, RENIX...and like I said the engine runs very well. The flexplate is RENIX as well. Original CPS- 88. It doesn't have cruise and I'm not adding it. The TCU is the same year as the harness and tranny - 93 HO. I didn't want to rip out the existing injection system etal, because it all seemed to work fine. Like I had said, it WAS a 5 speed. There were 2 TPS sensors wired into the harness, one was not used, but the wiring from it is all there. I just haven't dug into the harness to see where those 3 wires went on the 5 speed (if anywhere, since it wasn't used). When I went thru the donor harness I removed all the wiring that didn't just pertain to the trans. I could not find anywhere that the ECU needed anymore info than the wires I kept pertain to. Does that make sense??:dunno:

Well, maybe I didn't explain this correctly. I know where the wires go to the TCU. The wires were cut between the TCU and ECU. The TCU is intact with all the correct wires in all the correct spots and is all hooked up but the three wires I have left are the tan/orange gray/tracer and red from the TCU. The existing TPS wiring (when I had the 5 speed it only used one of the connectors) has 2 connectors. The wires for the second connector are the same (tan/orange gray/tracer and red). They go from the TPS and dive into the harness. Where do they go when they leave the TPS?? There was never a TCU in this truck before. I still have the loose wires coming from the TCU (tan/orange gray/tracer and red) to the engine bay AND wires coming from the TPS. So the question is can I splice the wires from the TCU to the wires from the TPS?

Hey there, Put in the TCU for the new AW4 (new to me) but have not connected ALL the wires. I have the NSS jumped, have the 7 pin connector in, have the dual TPS on. Have 3 grounds coming out of TCU. I have not connected the POWER to the TCU yet. The last three wires are TPS voltage, TPS input and TPS ground. The same 3 wires coming from of the TPS dive into the wiring harness and I surmise that they go to the ECU in their present configuration. Can I just splice in to those wires...the TPS 3 or id it more complicated than that? The MJ runs fine, but I still have to shift manually

My 5 speed had 1 light, in a socket. I swapped to an AW4 and spliced in another bulb for the shift bezel...BUT the light for the 4x4 was there...because it's a 4x4. Orange wire with black stripe and a black wire, together, comes on with the headlights. Looks like you don't have any "spare money" either :D

Take it back. Call radiatorbarn.com