ParadiseMJ

I'm a bit confused on the terminology here, I guess. EVAP cannister is in the engine compartment aft of the oil filter. It has a vacuum source hose from the manifold and a purge/vent line from the fuel tank. There is no residual vacuum once the engine is turned off. Vacuum reservoir (or bottle) is behind the front bumper on the passenger side. This should have some residual vacuum when engine is off. Anyhoo, if you have a leak in the vac lines to the reservoir it should really only affect HVAC controls and MIGHT change the idle a bit (maybe). It should not change the way the Jeep runs. The EVAP cannister just sucks gas fumes out of the fuel tank and into the intake to be reburned. I have had leaks in both that did not affect the running of the motor. If the EVAP cannister is leaking you'll fail smog (here in sunny CA anyway), just on the physical fuel tank pressure test.

A vacuum cannister will not make a ticking sound. A purge solenoid will. If you're driving a RENIX look elsewhere for "ticking". If you're driving a 91 or 92 (HO) look to the purge solenoid.

I have all kinds of aluminum parts in my Nissan, including the radiator...just regular old Prestone green for years now.

The bearing on the pump can go south without leaking...for now. You could also just be getting some WD-40 on the belt, and covering a loose belt noise. If it is the pump it will eventually start leaking. Take the belt off and rotate the pulley, all the pulleys. They should all roll smoothly. Feel for play back/forth, side/side around the WP pulley. There should not be any play. Simple to replace a water pump...and they're not expensive. Just make sure you buy a NEW pump, not a re-manufactured pump.

Don't rebuild a BA-10 http://boise.craigslist.org/pts/2927581835.html

The speedo cable doesn't have to be pulled very far to come out of either the back of the the speedo itself or the square hole at the transfer case. I'm not sure about the length of the cable, like lsmurphy says, but seems it'd be pretty easy to grab a 4x4 speedo cable (new or used). When you're installing a new/used cable, make sure it's engaging in the back of the cluster properly. Then givwe yourself enough slack to stab it at the transfer case so you KNOW it's engaged. Good to put a zip tie on it with a proper spring once you have it in place.

OK, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong here, but if you remove the back-up light sensor, there is a hole. It's about at the same level of the fill plug. When I take mine out, fluid comes out. couldn't you fill it through there??

Damn...beat me to it!! :D

Is it worth fixing? I've never done much tranny work and the whole idea of taking it out, spending money on it and putting it back in sounds like alot of work for still having a BA-10. I have an AW4 waiting in the wings. It's a known working tranny. I have a good pick n' pull here for auxillary parts too. I'm waffling on installing the AW4 or finding an AX15. I like driving the 5 speed, but also like the automatic in the XJ. Is there a huge difference in POWER transfer (I also have 3.07's in my D30 and D44) The AW4 is out of a 94 and the MJ is an 88 so I know there will be wiring differences and TC differences but dropping and swapping sounds better than just dressing up a turd. The only AX-15's I've seen around are $300-$600, there are none at the junkers, though I keep looking. Opinions??

......and since it's all worked by vacuum, something isn't connected. Look under Jeep at front axle. Do you see the vacuum harness hanging down? Connect vacuum harness to axle. It's very common. Especially if you don't spend much time under the Jeep. Somewhere in that vacuum connection is the problem.

1. I could not live in a big city. 2. I've owned two restaurants (ex-wife got one...IRS got the other). 3. Raised 4 kids (now 30F, 28M, 27M, 25M). 4. I like to do experimental plant grafts in my garden (no weed). 5. I'm 59...feel like 29 most of the time, just older. 6. I only have 2 good friends, (the kind that will come a runnin' if necessary) !!

My MJ is blessed with a 5 spd. Peugot BA-10. In the 2 yrs. I've had it I have babied the tranny and it's done fine...except for occasionally popping out of reverse. I've changed the oil twice on it in about 3K miles because it was full of gooey goop the first time I opened the drain. I've been using Pennzoil "Syncromesh". It runs and shifts fine when I'm cruising at highway speeds and up around the hills. 2nd to 3rd to 4th and even 5th, and downshifts fine as well. In close quarters however, in town, slow speeds, into first and second, shifting requires a little finnesse. So, now when coming to a stop it makes this sound. I can only describe it as: Whhvvvvvvvvvvzzzzzzzzzzzzz. The clutch seems to have plenty of pedal and is disengaging but the sound still happens...and it's random. So, any ideas (clutch plate, linkage, flywheel etc.)? I really don't want it to grenade cruising to work, in the dark, in the rain, on a hill, of a two lane road. P.S. The guy who claimed he was jumped by a mountain lion and was saved by a bear just MIGHT have made that story up.

Oh those...the ones made by Jeep...stock. I put TJ flares on my XJ...I wouldn't do it again. Once done, you can't go back, too much cutting, welding and fitting involved. They work great, look decent and give me LOTS of room in the wells...they do look out of place though. If I was to go with any other flares besides stock, I'd bite the $$$ bullet and get Bushwhackers.

Ask for the tube from the 97. It's curved. The straight tube seems to be a junkyard item. You can also use a piece of black or galvanized pipe from the hardware store. Match up the threads on the WP and shove a hose clamp on the other end.

Yes, I'd like to see that picture. Do guys that go SOA change the mounting point? I'm SUA now with 3" leaf pack and a shackle...still using stock size shocks :dunno:

Shameless bump! :wrench: :dunno:

Is your speedometer "jumping"? Or jumpy, wiggly, wobbly at all on any speed? My speedo cable was not fully engaged in the new gauge cluster and made the speedo click, or tap, generally made noise...up to about 45 mph. After that it smoothed out. There is about 1/4" wiggle room between the T-case connection and the cluster input. Check it out! :wrench:

Myth, no. Mis-information, yes. Just because some guy says it so doesn't make it a "myth" or not. So he did it, BFD.

Another question about shock mounts. Didn't wanna hijack the other one here. Has anyone had success changing the shock mount HEIGHT on the bottom end. They're the lowest point on my slightly lifted truck. Seems like if anything is coming off on the trail...those will be the first to go. Is there a DIY somewhere on this?? Inverting the mount? Different model? anyone? I do well with pictures...a thousand words and all that.

Glad you got it going. Helping is what the forum is all about...oh, and screwing around. :cheers:

Just so's you know...there's a new one on e-bay right now for $225.

X2 PM ParadiseMJ today!!

I know it's not the strongest, and I don't particularly like the welds at the mounts. There is plenty of room for lights and standing on. I try not to hit things. It IS much beefier than the stock bumper...which isn't saying much. A good rock would probably mangle it, I just don't like the look of the "off road" bumpers. If I was going that way I'd just get some 3/8" thick rectangular tube stock and bolt it on. I also won't likely spend $400 on a bumper.

If you are looking for a vacuum SOURCE from the air filter...it's not there. The HVAC are on lines on the passenger side firewall coming out of a little rubber grommet...one pink or tan...one black. The tan or pink one should go to the heater control valve. The black line goes to the vac ball behind the front bumper. The vacuum SOURCE comes from the intake manifold across to the cruise servo (if equipped) and to the bigger line on the vac ball. It seems that the Source line goes in then out of the cruise servo and T's off to both sides of the vac ball. I have cruise so I have the football shaped one. My 88 has no cruise and just has the softball sized one The hose with the brass fitting on the manifold goes to the vacuum ball (I relocated it to the engine compartment) and provides the source vacuum. The heater control valve is supplied vacuum with the pink line. I have an HO valve and swapped to an open system. The heater control valve is gone now and the pink line is plugged with a cap. The small black line (next to the pink line) that comes out of the firewall goes to the ball. That line controls all your HVAC needs.

This the one I have on the MJ. I got it off e-bay 3 years ago for $250. I see them listed now and then but they're $425 now. Free shipping. The bumper bracket bolts strait up to the rails in the same holes as the tow hooks. They wrap around the corners right up to the edge of the flares, no caps needed, all steel. Don't have to cut anything. Not as beefy as I'd like and you'd have to modify it with some welding to add d-rings. There are a few different types, search "jeep xj bumper". Still deciding on light covers.