ParadiseMJ

My opinion only: The first one is just not my style, but probably the best off road type bumper. Looks like it would give you more clearance over obstacles. The second on protects the front corners better and the d-rings offer more versatility - it'd be my choice. The third one, I had the same type of bumper on my old XJ. Looks good, but I'd bet that the mounts are not "through" welded. They're just welded at the inside corners of the bumper. They're durable enough, have room for mounting lights and look better than stock.

Anybody got the nut/stud/bolt size before I go crawl around on the cold, wet gravel to try random nuts.

I don't have a picture but the stock horn has a plastic circle with a hole for the cylinder, and a spring (about the size of the spring in a ball point pen, which is what I'm using). The wire, as it's done in my truck, slides behind the cylinder, up against the spring and attaches to the column connector...looks like the same wire. Confused yet?? I put a Grant wheel in, the horn actuator was all f'd up, I did not like the smaller wheel so I swapped the stock 3 spoke wheel back in. I am probably not explaining it right but I got off the 4 am - noon shift today so it's been Beer 30 around here for three hours.

So, I don't know if I have to replace the mount or just put nuts in where they're not. There are two bigger brand new looking bolts coming up from the bottom with brand new looking nuts on them on either side. The PO had started to rebuild this truck when I got it, but gave up due to time/money...all the other variables. Any advice??

In crawling around under my truck I noticed that the rear two bolts at the tranny mount have no nuts on them...I don't think that's normal. So I looked through the holes of the cross member and of the four bolts/studs that I believe are supposed to be there...none have nuts and one bolt/stud is non-existent...it looks like it was either cut or sheared off. :wrench: I did NOT do a search yet. It's a BA-10 Is this normal? Anyone got a picture of a recently installed tranny mount, or a write-up with pics. I'd really like to compare them with my funky set-up. I think I may have found the source of my strange noises.

Each one of the letters on the header panel has two little plastic "studs". If they've never been removed they'll also have the little push on fasteners on the inside. Like a mean little washer with teeth that grip on to the studs. You have to be careful not to break the little studs while pulling off the "washers". If you crane your neck and look behind the top of the header panel (flashlight helps here) you can see how they work. When I re-installed mine I just put a dab of black adhesive RTV on each stud and pushed them back on. The other badges use the double sided tape stuff and have no studs. I used the same RTV to re-install and it's worked fine.

AFIK the only way to adjust the mechanical speedo is to have the proper speedo gear in the t-case to account for tire size. If you have larger tires or changed the gearing or t-case it is probably off. I have 31's and my speedo is about 9-10% off. I just adjusted in my head (using logic and common sense, and a GPS of course). If my speedo reads ~65...the GPS says I'm going ~71. I have wanted to swap out the speedo gear, but I'm on to other priorities, and I'm lazy.

I had changed out the radiator with a 91+ rad to do my OPEN system swap. Didn't have a bung for the switch/sensor so I needed a way to turn the fan on due to temperature if I'm towing/in traffic/crawling or just super hot temps. This way I never really bypassed the relay, it's still part of the loop. I just keep an eye on the temp or use it a kind of a pre-emptive measure when I know the Jeep is about to be under more load. It really works pretty well. I can also turn the fan on the Jeep is off, just to cool things down under the hood.

I spliced a wire from the switch to the fan relay itself. The fan comes on by itself with A/C or defrost, and I can still turn it on from tha dash anytime, or all the time. Like so: http://www.olypen.com/craigh/auxfan.htm

I doubt if the PO was trying to hide anything, but I would think you're also looking replacing some bearings & seals. Better yet, since replacing all that will cost some $$, you'd be much better off swapping another axle in there. Even if it's another 35. Seems like lots of work and expense to throw into a 35 when you could just drop and swap in an afternoon.

Just messin' with you. good luck :cheers:

I'm pretty sure that if you can cut rubber, then yes, you could trim it. I like using this handy tool for determining how much to cut and where I should cut it.

I don't understand the confusion. Mine have all had a hex at the front and a kind of funky stamped hex at the back. I usuall just reach down there and twist it off with my hand. Channel locks would works too. Pipe wrench, crescent wrench, vise grips.

No, sorry, I just used the quote for the OP. Around here the CHP would be on you like flies on s@%t for going 85 (especially in a Jeep), boom, arrested, not just a ticket. 65-70 OK - 85 is ridiculous.

:nuts:So, you think your 20+ YEAR OLD Jeep should go faster :no: I sure hope you are drinking heavily when you're driving.

Locitite is good s&@t. I used to sell it at King Bearing back in the 80's. It's nice to see that it's lasted and improved with different grades/colors over the years. We also had "super glue" which was ground breaking back then. By the way...none of those pics look like my 88 t-stat. Mine is polished aluminum with a BIG ball in the front and hoses running parallel. I'll shoot a pic of it tomorrow. My 1990 XJ stat housing is completely different. I drilled and tapped it for a bleeder "petcock" before I switched over to open cooling.

I think "Taiwan" means full. "Bangladesh" means empty. :dunno: "Iran" means screw it. :fs1: "Mitt Romney" means your Jeep is screwed and now belongs to the GOP. :fs2: :D

What is working? What isn't working? Do you have spark? Fuel pressure? Lights working? Fuel pump noise? Need more info. Automatic, manual, engine?

Yeah, you'll still have hoses. I don't have a HCV on my 90 or the 88 MJ. Open system means there is no pressure bottle, just an overflow reservoir (non pressurized). The pressure is held in the radiator and relieved by the cap (the regular OPEN system cap on the radiator). The coolant in the hot radiator expands a small amount and is released into the reservoir. When the engine cools off, the coolant in the reservoir gets sucked back into the radiator. It's also self bleeding (air wise) so that all the trapped air is purged out after a couple of heat/cool cycles Both my closed to open swaps cost me about $220 ea. and included new radiators with a filler neck on the radiator. Ask for a 92> radiator. Runs two hoses from t-stat/water pump directly to heater core. So, two hoses, new radiator, generic overflow bottle. Ba-da-bing, you're done.

ANY component, ill maintained, is a ticking time bomb! I don't know if you are asking because it's a D35 or because it's leaking. I've put 100K good hard miles on the 35 in my 1990 XJ (it has 240K ORIGINAL miles on the clock). Still going strong. I regularly maintain my rigs. If you expect for the thing to go forever without fixing, sealing, changing, cleaning and checking, you're living in a dream world. :nuts:

....and there is a 231C, a 231D and 231J. Chevy, Dodge, Jeep

No, I was not referring to your post. What you said was right on the money. Whether the switch is located on the t-stat or a hose T I was just emphasizing the fact that it has to be a thermal "switch" and not a sensor or sender. Thus the corvette reference...it's the right size and performs the right function. Whether it comes on at 218 or 225, I dunno. Just repeating a reference I had read when asking about converting my XJ to an open system.

I'll agree on the "completely unecessary" part. I've never been tagged on the visual inspection part. It's a poor design and a flimsy a$$ hose with minimal benefit. I tore mine out on both XJ and MJ. You'd think that they'd eliminate it altogether...wait...they did... starting in 1991.

I don't mean to beat it to death but I can't emphasize enough between sensor...sender...switch. For this application you want the switch. A sender and/or sensor will not work (I tried several scenarios). If you go to A/Z, O'Reilly's etc. most counter jockeys will not know the difference.

The difference is Sensor, sender and switch. You can't use a sensor as a switch or a switch as a sender. AFAIK there is a similar "switch" that fits a 88-92 Corvette that will fit into a 92+ Jeep thermostat bung. Like this: I just wired in a switch to the e-fan...I like having the control and not wondering when the fan will come on. The switch on the left is the e-fan, the right is just for driving lights. The e-fan also cools the tranny cooler when needed, that's why I like having the switch because sometimes the tranny is hot and the engine isn't.