ParadiseMJ

...and use a spray on the box. QD Cleaner/Chemtool etc. If it was me I'd remove/clean/replace all the fuses and contacts. Just get all the fluid off and seal up the firewall as best you can.

Fluke. Already weak for some other reason. I've had 32's doing ALL kinds of driving in my XJ with AW4, D35 and 3.55's...maybe I've just been lucky, who knows?? The MJ has a rear D44 but those crappy 3.07 gears, 31's and a BA 10 but I tow with it up hills on a regular basis. No probs...but I baby my Jeeps.

More info needed. Lift? Gears? Trans? Driving habits?

In the simplest of terms, yes. But, since the tank is plumbed for expansion you have to modify the plumbing a bit. The OVERFLOW on an open system is not pressurized, per se...aka OPEN. It allows the coolant to expand and contract through the cap. When the engine is hot and coolant expands the cap allows some coolant from the radiator to be released in to the overflow...when the engine cools off the coolant get's sucked back into the radiator...instead of air...to replace what expanded out. If you're using a sealed tank (CLOSED) it doesn't suck and flow as easily and with a compromised cap, radiator, bottle etc. your system will suck air. IMHO, just adding a cap with an inline adapter is lame. If you want eliminate the CLOSED system, replace it with all the proper OPEN system parts

:agree

Yes, I looked at that first cause when I went through the Jeep things were a bit sketchy in that area. Everything is clean and bright and tight down there. I shudder the thought of replacing the fuse block and since that clutch master is right there I keep an eye on it every time I drive it for leaking. The fuse is fine...I even put in a brand new shiny fuse just for the H of it. No change, of course. I'm going to have to get down there and rip it apart...gotta replace that cable anyway unless I find an extra inch hiding in the dash. Junkyard run - the happiest place on earth.

Is there a way to test the resistor etal. or is it just replace and cross fingers?? How to replace?

I used 88 MJ brackets on 90 XJ buckets. Had to grind the mounts off and bolt the MJ bench brackets to the XJ seats. It worked fine. BUT 95+ seat rails are 10" on center at the slider. MJ brackets are 6" on center at the slider. Newer seats mount differently. It's not a bolt in. MJ floor contours are different than XJ's even for the same years. Ya gotta modify, fab or settle for older seats...and even then you have to mod. Also the XJ rocker sliders will not work...unless you are short and don't need any head room.

Never really thought about a "knob" having a length dimension...It's round, about 2.5" I'd guess

Can't seem to get a rise out of NAXJA so: Well, all of a sudden the blower in the MJ died. Heat comes in real nice on VENT but I can't blow it in any specific direction...unless I move the lower door manually. Also heater blend door cable/wire is broken, thus the "manually". HAAALP!! Should I just score a new cable/wire from the JY? It broke at the connection in the cab about 1.5" shy of operable. Is there a way to use the old cable or am I pretty much looking at a new cable. Any clue as to the blower? Fuse good...don't know much about this. __________________ 1990 XJ, 4.0 AW4, Nice Jeep...FOR SALE 1988 MJ, 4.0, 5 speed, Resurrected, Junk Yard Franken-Jeep.

You won't find anything like that. I don't think 96 was the year for the stupidly insane fuel line extension. That is SO lame...and scary. Ka-BOOM!!

Yeah, ummm, no, this has never happened to me. Probably because a.) I might have learned the first time or, b.) I don't have a horse trailer and c.) I never leave the Jeep in Neutral while it's in the garage at the end of the day in front of the horse trailer with the door open and the remote possibility that my face could get muddied as it slid down the grill of the other Jeep parked in Neutral by the horse trailer by the garage where my Jeep was sitting in Neutral. :nuts: TWICE!!! Good story though :rotf: Might need new hinges and new fender. Sorry dude, but this is just freakin hilarious, I know not for you, but it made my day.

I got these after I got this link from fiatslug

Forgive my ignorance, but what is "QD cleaner"? I have had a mas cyl leak previously, and I believe currently, too. I am also having multiple electrical issues - radio has power but not sound from speakers, fan blower doesn't work, brake lights don't work. I have felt behind the fuse box and it is damp. I plan on pulling it off and looking at it. What do I clean it with? Tim QD cleaner is a spray cleaner for "quick disconnect" electrical connectors **I think that's waht the QD is for**. Any way it's a cleaner for electronics. Spray it on and it evaporates in a few seconds (so it's quite flammable). If it's damp behind the box and it's NOT water then the best thing to do is to remove the box from the C-101 connector if equipped, or just split the inside and outside and spray it down, and clean carefully as you go getting the fluid off the plastic parts, brass contacts, and fuses. Cover everything with lithium grease and put it all back together. Pain in the butt.

The fail safe part doesn't "lock" when it opens at normal temps. If your temp gets way up there...overheats...then it opens further still and locks on the little tabs. I'm not sure if you can get it to close again, like manually. It's better to just buy a quality (Mopar or Superstant) t-stat and let it do it's job.

If you pulled and replaced your P/S pump pulley, did you get it back on the same. My 88 and my 90 had slightly different pulley shafts, one was flush, one was recessed. I only recognized that because I did both in the same day. Check to see if your hamonic balancer is flush and the rubber ring is in good shape. Just a quarter inch in or out can cause belt problems, possibly wear a hole in your timing chain cover and/or make it impossible to align all the pulleys. If so you'll shred belts until it ultimatley fails altogether. If your fan tweaked enough, it's also possible that your motor mounts are weak & spongy and allowed enough movement to move and slice the belt. Use a straitedge, take line up your pulleys. If your harmonic balancer looks like this (not the rust, the alignment) it's toast.

Thanks. I'm a very slow and methodical worker, and that's just what I thought was best. I don't mind taking an hour to do what could be done in 15 minutes, and I'm always reluctant to undo an old connection that remains sound, as once you do, you tend to start stressing other OR...actually replacing the "parts that have been in place for ages". I suppose it's doable, and not a bad idea, to save $6.99 x 2 on new connectors but replacing the fuel line connector with new parts means you'll likely not have to change injectors, connectors or o-rings (in the lines) for the life of the Jeep. I replaced my fuel rail and FPR so I HAD to replace the connectors.

My personal rule of thumb for diagnostics on overheating... On highway at speed is a coolant circulation problem: Radiator, water pump, air in lines, heater core clogged etc. In traffic, crawling, at idle etc. is an air circulation problem: Fan clutch, e-fan, blocked radiator etc. Any other time for no apparent reason is a pressure/air problem: Bad or inadequate cap, cracked bottle, pinner leak, air in system etc.

Do you mean to replace the whole headlight assembly or just the headlight itself?? Just replacing a head light involves removing the bezel, four screws, one at each corner. Remove the old headlight, unplug the connector. Installation is reverse of removal. If you are just replacing a head light and you've gotten down to the adjusters and tension spring...you went too far. I'd actually have to take a look at mine to tell you, I'm at work so I can't. Keep looking.

I think I'd want it "pleasantly warm". Lotsa stuff going on in there what with the meshing of gears and xx amount of RPM's...it's got to be warm.. They make aluminum diff covers with ribs to dissipate the heat...but just warm is to be expected with any machine.

I checked my toolbox for an empty beer bottle, but nuthin'. That's what it sounds like, a 40 oz. rolling around in the bed.

Both good things to look at. I'll climb under there today.

When I'm rolling over a bump in the road I expect a certain small amount of "clunk" in my front end. Now I'm getting an extra clunk...after the hit...and it sounds like something is rolling from side to side. Thus the title. It happens mostly when I'm going slow, maybe I just don't hear it when going faster. Sounds like "Bump...clunkety...roll". I have NEW control arms, rubber bushings, TRE's and axle u-joints. It's almost like I left a tool or a can in there, but everything is accounted for. Any ideas.

I have seen these on ebay and thought that if I was going to totally build up my Jeeps to be trail rigs, I would kill to get the front & rear matched bumpers. Personally (IMHO) I think hoops and stingers on a stock Jeep look like crap...ghey-ish...like you bought something just for COOLness, which makes it even dorkier. Unless you're doing the Rubicon or Moab, keep it stock-ish. Don't forget, this is just MY opinion. It sounds like a good bumper and improves entry and departure angles, but really, if you're just going to work or the store or fishing at the local lake, leave the OFF-ROAD hardware OFF. Spend your "extra" money on shocks, or a full tune up or tires or...or...