ParadiseMJ

That particular brush gaurd looks like the tabs are just bolted to the bumper. Ususally they tie into the bumper MOUNT itself. Otherwise they may bolt in where the stock skid plate goes. :dunno: that particular brush gaurd gives me the willies.

Best way, widely available, if there's metal in there you just have to pull the plug to find out.

Rustoleum Metallic Racing Green

...about fifty cents a foot. 2 feet will cost you a buck, maybe less, maybe a bit more. The engine vacuum harness will cost about $45, but that has nothing to do with the A/C.

Your HVAC vacuum lines originate from your intake manifold, make a run around the back of the head, thru your vacuum reservoir behind the pass. bumper. The lines run along the passengers side fender and dive under the battery tray to the reservoir. The black line coming out of the firewall is the HVAC vac line that controls your blend doors. If you have a vacuum leak anywhere in this set-up you'll get default air out of your defrost. Follow the lines all along that route looking for splits, breaks, wear spots (aka any leak). I use the smoke test, blowing some smoke into a line or two usually pinpoints the leaks. When you find leaks I suggest that you replace the whole line or group of lines. Duct tape and cheapo repairs might work for a bit but the vac line is so cheap, why screw around, old line will just crack and leak again.

Gurgling and flowing is normal (there's a joke there, just sayin'), leaking out the cap is not, it's just wrong. Get a new cap. If you're holding pressure, good. If not, bad!

For the wipers: Yes, E-Z to replace, if you can find a new one, lots in the JY For the reverse lights: It's either the sensor on the pass side of the tranny OR that 7.5A fuse at the lower right of the picture, marked TRANS...check it.

Did you use a thread sealant on the sender?? It grounds (the sender) through the head. If there is enough goop on the threads, it won't ground properly and you'll get a false (or no) reading. ...or the gauge itself might be toasted. ...or...?

I just stuck a long screwdriver in the spoke, not much room but enough. Breaker bar, ba-da-bing. Once I had it held still it wasn't very hard to "break".

Yeah, I've asked the same question. There really are several options. DuraMat, foiled hard foam. Be looking at JY and/or Home Depot etc. for a suitable replacement. 1. Some insulation, or sound deadening. 2. Can't catch fire. Spray on products won't take care of much sound.

I have a housing like that on my 88 MJ. Came with it. Sure looked stock

The dash lighting is usually a headlight switch or bad ground behind the gauge cluster. Have you checked the bulbs. The brake indicator could be low fluid, a leak or simply an open circuit AT the e-brake. It's gotta make contact at the foot pedal when on/no contact when off. You could be missing a part down there under the dash. I'd replace both spring packs, I (personally) would not weld it...it broke once...why chance it? You can get stock springs at junkyard OR <$300 NEW. Not necessarily lift springs but OEM. You can easily swap out gauge clusters so that you have tach, oil pressure, temp, alt and small gas gauge. All the wiring is there. You just have to get the correct senders for temp and oil pressure. Tach will plug right in. Scan the JY for parts you need.

I have some 3" lift springs. Adj. LCA's. I have a pair of shacKles in the rear that give me ~1.5-2". Need anothe inch+ to give it the original slight rake.

Any suggestions for a spring that might yield me ~~2". Staying SUA.

So I went looking at the yard today for some S-10 leafs to lift the rear of my MJ a bit. The trucks I looked at only have 3 leafs, is that right?? The main spring looked much beefier than the others and one just looks like an overload. Questions: 1. Does this kind of add-a-leaf make the ride ALOT stiffer or does increased spring rate make up for that? 2. How much lift an I expect with an S-10 main at #2 position in the MJ pack? 3. Who sells the little teflon/plastic pads that go between the leaves or is that just a regular auto parts part? 4. ??

I've been using bulk 3/8" power steering hose, not formed, for years. All the formed hoses have taken a dump on me. I'll use a formed hose if I have to but not if it isn't necessary.

I would remove the D35 and put in either a trailer axle from Tractor Supply or a straight rear axle from something compatible like a rear axle from a front wheel drive mini-van (just a straight axle tube with brakes). Other than that I'd just get/build a frame. I'm thinkin' you're gonna have to do some welding, or have it done.

The tranny pan is quite thin. Torquing the bolts to spec and in the right pattern is very important IMO. If you get one corner off you'll be tweaking the other end if your cranking the bolts down too hard. It's also very important to make sure that the mating surfaces are clean and don't have built up gunk or old gasket material I've just used a standard ol' cork gasket in the past, my tranny does not leak (on my XJ) but I'm replacing everything with Fel-Pro rubber as I go along with both rigs. The MJ is a 5 speed so I'm kind of cross referencing XJ (AW4) to MJ, same same.

...sure, if you have a good mechanic. As a preventive measure you might wanna have them do the whole engine, while they're in there.

I've had great service from RadiatorBarn.com I've bought 2 rads from them. 1 was 3 row, 1 was 2 row, not much difference. All metal (brass/copper) CSF radiators around 130 to 160 USD, delivered quickly.

The stock screws on the OUTSIDE of the bed are phillips, the ones on the INSIDE of the bed are torx. Take another look, unless the screws are shot of course.

I don't know if the air gets "jammed up", I also think vents *help* but they won't solve your cooling problems. If any part of the whole cooling system is weak it'll play hell trying catch up. Running hot at highway speeds is a coolant circulation problem, Pump, Core or Radiator (or all). Running hot at slow speeds, idling, traffic, slow n' go is an air flow problem over/thru the radiator. Fan clutch (and you could upgrade thjat e-fan with a curved 10 blade from the JY. If you just can't figure it out and it gurgles or burps, you have air in the system With your Jeep at oper. temp. and engine off turn the mech fan with your hand, if it spins freely the fan clutch is toast. Other thing s to look at are t-stat, cap, pressure bottle. Sounds like your cooling system needs some attention. It's 100+ here today and mine is running at 200~210 with the A/C on, up and down hills, fast or slow.

I, as an old geezer, say no. They will definitely look cool, but you'll never be able to tuck the tires on flex (e.g. front goes left, rear goes right) If it's strictly for mall use, float on! If you can make it work on the hiway AND on a...say...dirt road. With big ol' fat tires withouy fender modification with only 2" you're rubbing all the time (yes, that's what that sound is).

When I first cracked the fill/drain plugs on my Peugot tranny, on the 88 MJ, out came what I can only describe as goop. It didn't shift well, it popped out of reverse etc. I refilled it with Penzoil Syncromesh the first time around. It shifted 100% better and did not pop out of any gear no matter how much I pushed it, forward OR back. After about 700 miles I drained it again. Less (but still present) goop flowed out the drain hole. I refilled it with the same stuff. Fast forward - I'm getting ready to drain and fill again (I'm trying to clean it out). I have an AW4 to swap in, but it's problematic so I'm just going to run the BA-10 until it's inevitable demise. So, my question(s) 1. So far, the Pennzoil Syncromesh has been doing fine. It's expensive. Should I keep using it? Any benefit or detriment to either opinion? 2. I'd like to put in some Lucas stabilizer (cause I saw the cool display at NAPA) to stick the lube to the gears. Yes...No...why? :D 3. Is there something else I can do to clean the thing out? 4. ...and finally would there be any advantage to boosting the LEVEL of the lube, aka, more is better? I'd be real interested in hearing from guys who have kept their Peugot alive all these years. I have no complaints about how it's working now, except that it feels a little like driving a backhoe.

I have a teensy* leak in my slave line/bleeder (don't really remember), which is my problem. Everything is fine for days, weeks, months...and then, ba-da-bing...I'm at a light and I can't get it in to any gear, while the engine is running. The clutch master holds so little fluid that even just a tiny* leak can be trouble. My fuse box area is dry, and every once in a while I see a little droplet at the slave line union. My "fix" for now...carry brake fluid. * Teensy is just about 1/4 of tiny (in my book anyhoo)