ParadiseMJ

seems to me you also need some heavy duty springs if you plan on dropping a 327 in there (if it'll fit). I'm not sure but it seems like a 327 would weigh alot more than a 4.0

I just did this and it was kind of a bit#h at first but it did come off. Climb underneath and locate your speedo cable on the transfer case. There is some slack in it, enough that you can push the cable up and forward to move that slack to the gauge cluster. Then you should be able to reach in behind, and with some pliers squeeze the two little plastic tabs together and pull on the white plastic part of the cable...should come right off. The other option is to disconnect the cable at the transfer case...but you shouldn't have to. When putting it back together make sure you get the little square end into the square hole...on both ends.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=jeep+a ... m270.l1313

17" wide 11" tall Outside measurement (roughly, within 1/8" or so)

I don't even have the folding handle, never came with one. I just use the lug wrench, stick the pointy end in there and turn. Works like a charm. I never did like the stock jack, handle, and wrench set-up. I bought a 3K lb. hydraulic bottle jack, much better. For the purists who want everything stock, you can probably find the whole set-up under the back seat of just about any XJ in the yard.

Which bearing is toast? P/S? In the pump (replace pump) Water pump? In the pump (replace pump) Idler pulley? $15 (replace pulley) Alternator, A/C ??

I got a new to me winch off a C4C long bed, to install it on my short bed I needed the mounting bracket. I un-spooled the cable to have a look and it looked brand new, no grease, no rust...the connection at the holder was a little sketchy though so I fixed that (just cut about 2 inches off and pounded on a new stop) and greased the whole thing as I re-spooled it. I do like the rachet strap idea though, a little more secure.

:yes: X 1,000,000. I haven't seen a single Comanche, or ANY other vehicle with spark plug holes thru the hood. If this guy tries to give you any more advice...just smile, nod and walk away.

The tranny shouldn't make a difference as both senders are in the T-case, not the tranny.

I was thinking about this today, as I had just fixed my speedo cable on my 231. I also happen to have an NP 249 laying around...so I took the sender/gear out of the 249. Other than the sender and connection to the shaft (square end vs. round end), the whole thing looked to be the same length, size etc. So like the others said, just swap your sending unit (mechanical) into your later model TC...should work fine if it meshes with the helical gear INSIDE.

Mettle?? TIE rod..or ?

How are your control arm bushings? I put in new uppers and lowers and my MJ is like a whole new truck. I also replaced the old leaf bushings. My poor XJ is getting neglected now that the truck is sooooo much smoother.

They sell perches at a place in my neck of the woods for $7 each. They're 1/4". It's a metal fab/supply place. Most of their stuff is for big trailers, all kinds of radius sizes Another option but the Mopar stuff is probably your best bet.

Why don't you just get one of these...much cheaper :cheers: http://www.featurepics.com/online/Hose-Bib-1168027.aspx

This is my rattle can job...it's not perfect, but it works. The thing was in rough shape, it took ALOT of prep and ALOT of paint. I spent over $250 on prep and paint supplies and found it difficult to even find the paint once I decided on a color. Metallic Racing Green. I also used sandable pimer, had to do alot of sanding and filling small dings, the gloss brings out and seems to amplify any imperfections, of which there were many. It started out looking like this: I scraped off the decal because the PO had tried to sand it off...wrong...it peels off fine with some Xylene (or Acetone) a razor scraper, and some patience. Sanded and primed. So I sanded, and sanded, and re-primed, and sanded. Then I bought 24 cans of paint. I also got some art tips from ACE hardware and one of those can holder spray atttachments. Here's what came out of it

The install tool that you can rent from AutoZone is just a bolt with washers, either rent the tool or go buy a 1/2 x 20 3" bolt and a handful of fender washers. Also, turn the engine so that the key way faces straight down, much easier to line it up with the key...then you should be able to push the HB about half the way on, pull it the rest of the way on withg the tool (longer bolt), then when the HB is flush with the crank snout, put the big washer and the original (I bought a new stainless steel 1/2 x 20 bolt). You should not have to pull too hard on the wrench, if you are pulling too hard, then your key, key way are not lined up correctly. Also if you are cranking too hard on the bolt you could strip the threads inside the crank. Torque spec is 80-85 ft./lb

As in the hood is open the latch is stuck closed. Sick a screwdriver in there and manually open the latch, also see that the cable is pulling on it.

I haven't ever heard of a "too tight" connection, too clean, or too grounded. So I went thru every connection, I removed the battery to starter cable at both ends. The center part of the cable was so corroded it just about fell apart in my hands. I knew the ground cable was brand new...I just didn't replace the positive cable...so the 22 year old cable was the culprit. Problem solved. Thanks for all your input.

Well, it's both. I get rapid clicks, low current. BUT everything is hooked up right. I'm showing 13VDC at battery posts with charger attached @ 10A, 14.5VDC at charger connections with charger on 50A, 12.5 VDC just the battery, not hooked to anything. Alternately, I get a single click...and then I have no lights, acc, or buzzer. Like it has to re-set itself before it will click again...either click, click click or CLICK; then nothing. Headlights always dim till almost off every time, no matter the number of clicks. After the big CLICK I got no power to nuthin'. After the click, click, click all the interior lights AND the headlights are super dim, but lit.

The battery posts have been emery'd, they are shiny, the posts and the stud connectors, shiny, and tight. The cables are "almost" new. The ground at the dipstick is likewise, and block to firewall. EVERYTHING is shiny and bolted down tight. That's what my quandry is. It all SEEMS like it's ready to roll but all I get is click, click, click. So, can the click, click, click be a starter problem that just coincedentally raised it's ugly head or would it be: 1. Starter relay? The thing with all the wires/fusible links at the relay center. 2. Shorted gauge cluster? 3. Ignition switch, that also went coincedentally bad? 4. Leprechauns? It is not a fuel problem as I can't even get past the click, click, click!!! Help me Obi Wan Kenobi...you're my only hope!!

I removed my gauge cluster to fix the speedo on my 88 MJ, fixed the speedo, removed a CB antenna adapter and plugged the regular antenna into the regular AM/FM cassette. Added some small burned out bulbs (backlighting) for the HVAC panel, removed the cig. lighter to get at the radio, reinstalled the radio, clock, cig lighter (BTW, cig lighter works fine). I started the MJ a couple of times to try out the radio, started fine, radio still no work, lights up, but no display or sound. Like I said, it started fine. After reinstalling everything I went to start it to see how speedo repair went...and got all the lights dimming and click, click, click from the starter, then nothing. I swore bitterly. I threw the battery on a charger, cleaned up all the terminal connections, the ground from block to firewall is NEW 4 ga wire, not a strap. On the charger at 10A for ~~4-5 hours, get in, all lights light up, buzzer, everything on. Click, click, click. Checked connection at starter, tight, dipstick ground, clean and tight. Gave the starter a tap or two, put the charger on 50A. Click, click, click, then nothing, no lights, nada!!! WTF'nF :huh???:

Two more things to check... There is an inline 4A fuse in the wiring under the dash... AND... Make sure the cable from the SERVO is connected to the throttle.

Yeah, beat me to it. Step One: Clean the transfer case, tranny, engine. Step Two: The T/C drain and fill plugs are on the backside of the the T/C. Mine are brass(?) 30mm, bottom is drain, top is fill. Remove fill first, then remove drain, drain, replace drain, fill with Dex III or suitable ATF. Replace fill plug. On the tranny the drain plug is at the rear of the tranny, just above the cross member. It's a 5/16" (or metric eqivalent) square plug drive. If you can't find the tool, you need to make one with a sacrificial 3/8" drive extension...grind it down on all four side to fit. The fill plug is about mid way on the passenger side...easier to see when it's clean.

I wanted to go with the cargo light/3rd brake light combo off of a Ford Ranger. Just settled for the 3rd brake light alone which I got the light and connectors and about 2 ft, of wire off an XJ. Very easy, one wire off the trailer wiring and a ground. My mantra is more like measure 5 or 6 times, cut once. It can leave quite a gap in just the wrong place if it's off. My under dash wiring has a plug for the cargo light switch and as far as I know it's the skinny pink wire up along the b-pillar. Pictures please.

That sounds like too much work!!