ParadiseMJ

..I think that's the way I'm going, the 4 door seats are just too nice to pass up. The whole donor XJ ( a 1990 Laredo) is worlds better than the interior of mine, so I'm grabbing the door panels too. I'll keep you posted, these will end up in my build sheet, whenever I get around to updating that. ...and the final question is: Is there a way to modify (like grinding down a nub or catch) the 4 door seats to fold forward or is it a single direction hinge??

I don't even know of a source for front air shocks. I'm sure you could use an adapter and put some rear air shocks on there, but the weight of the plow should be on springs and not the shocks. another leaf in your rear pack might give you the weight capacity you're looking for. Some ZJ V-8 coils in the front shoud fix you up and may or may not give you an inch or so of lift (until you put the plow on). Maybe some ACOS would be a better choice. Better hurry...winters comin'

I've searched and read posts all morning about swapping XJ bucket seats into my MJ. I know how to mount XJ seats onto my MJ brackets. I've also looked high and low for seats from a 2 door or aN MJ all to no avail. SO, who has put XJ 4 door seats into their MJ and is getting to the very limited space behind the seat all that difficult. I have a line on some really nice XJ 4 door buckets that would drop right onto my brackets and into my truck. Is getting behind the seaty forthe 9" of storage area all that difficult?? I'd rather have nice seats than be able to get to my sub box (not).

The back of the hood is raised up about 2-3 inches. It's built (moulded) that way so there is a vent space at the rear of the hood at the windshield (AKA screen). Look at the last 2 pics on that site. Check out a Ford Ranger "Edge". They have a pseudo cowl. That's a cowl hood, and IMHO it looks great. Makes the front end look beefier and apparently works well. Kind of spendy but you won't have to worry about water, or snow (in Florida??).

I was looking at compressors and there seemed to be a bunch of models for 91+ that were considerably cheaper. My compressor is old, it whines, the A/C does not work and I was going to just re-do the entire system...I wanted to do it for less than $400-$500. I was also going to do the R-134 conversion, but since all the hoses, the compressor look like crap I wanted to start with new (or at least usable) stuff. The Jeep Air site is good, I'll peruse that a little more. Thanks

I'm not sure, I'll ask the guys on CC.

Will a 91+ A/C compressor work in my 88 4.0 without any modification, or at all?

Well, actually I don't see the difference. My stock wheels...all the load is on the studs. I was just using these as an example anyway. I did buy the hubcentric ones 4 or so years ago for the XJ. One more note. Make sure youe have enough stud sticking out to accommodate the spacer. On my MJ there was only 5/8" of stud...and the spacer lug holes bottomed out with only about 1/2" to 3/8" of stud left to hold the spacer to the drum/disc. There was not enough stud to catch more than about half the nut, not enough for me, so I swapped out all the studs (on the Jeep, not the spacer) for longer ones. As far as wearing on the bearings, it would not be any different than buying/running wheels with less (or is it more) backspacing. Since that seems to be SOP with Jeeps I'd say it's OK.

Remove wheel. Bolt on. Admire. Replace wheel. Admire. Drive!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-93-Je ... ccessories

I have a Wagner sprayer that I've used for my house, decks, fences etc. There are different spray tips and atomizers for different paints. The tip for the deck stain did a very good job but it was really hard to control the volume, but the deck sucked up what pooled or ran. I also did an oil based primer on my utility trailer and again it worked fine but took longer to clean the %&@#*% oil based paint out of the sprayer, hose and tip than it did to shoot the job. Like it's been said above I'd practice on a piece of the SAME TYPE of material (like an old fender) through a couple base coats and clear coat before committing to the whole job with a Wagner or "homeowner" type sprayer.

Yet a virgin (technically) COULD contract an STD. So that blows that theory.

I've found them in both. All XJ's (that I've looked at) have them. They plug right in to that plug you can't find, both sides. One MJ Eliminator I got into had the whole thing.

Those are very nice seats and if you weren't at the other end of the state, I'd go for it. Don't know what I'd have to do to mod them to fit...the search continues

If you have the spring, take the old spring out of the old hose and put it in the new one. It's there to keep the hose from collapsing under load causing an overheat situation. Our local Jeep dealer told me that they had discontinued that particular hose, BUT, although many will tell you the spring is necessary, I have been running a regular Goodyear hose on my XJ for 20K miles and I've never had any problems.

1. No - you'd be better off with a universal type hitch from u-haul IMO 2. :dunno: I've wondered that too. I belive that a Grand "waggy", the older version is an FSJ. As far as I know the XJ shared the Wagoneer/Cherokee name for several years until the Grand Cherokee (ZJ) came out. 3. You should be able to get the model from the VIN#. Search VIN id.

I have the valve for a RENIX 4.0 - free with shipping

I have stock front brackets laying around - you can have for shipping cost. I think ~8-10 bucks (not a quote). PM if interested.

Thank you, but shipping costs would kill from NJ to CA. I'll gladly drive a few hundred miles to pick up but thanks for the offer.

I just finished bringing my "project" MJ up to CA emissions. I didn't know what the PO had or hadn't done to it before (and it wasn't running), but when I got it there were a bunch of things ripped out of the engine bay. So I popped the hood on my XJ as a guide to go by. I replaced the O2 because it looked like crap. I had to replace and augment all of the emissions related vac lines as well as all the HVAC lines. I tested EGR function (push/pull) I replaced the rollover valves on the fuel tank because they were dry/cracked/broken and both vac lines to the charcoal can. I changed the oil, filled the tank and took it for a drive to get everything up to temp and running as clean as I could...and I bought a NEW gas cap. It passed with great numbers. I don't think it would have passed CA smog if I hadn't done most of the stuff on that list.

I live in Northern California. I will drive to Reno, SF Bay, North Coast, Gold Country or Southern Oregon. ~~200 miles for right seats, condition and/or price. I have a decent bench seat I'll GIVE away if I can find the right pair of buckets. I need 2 bucket seats. MJ, XJ (2 door), TJ, YJ that fold forward. Have brackets. 11" center to center rails. Not rocket (curved) rails. Manual, but I can make power seats work. Have center console. Optimal color is Tan, Tan/Black...cloth or leather...decent shape. Please, if they're butt-sprung or in bad shape (burns, stains etc.) I'll pass. You name the price, I'll see if I can do it. Other colors OK if in good shape. Thanks guys.

:agree: The MJ is a uni-body. You can't just bolt on hooks, you MUST add mounts of sufficient strength to stand up to the forces applied. The C4x4 kit has brackets that are near-clones of the factory mounts. Although it CAN be done. My XJ had hooks bolted straight to the "frame". The C4x4 hooks & brackets are really the only REAL and SAFE option. A bit more expensive, but worth not ruining your Jeep or taking someone's head off. :smart:

How's this?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-Jee ... ioQ5fVideo

eBay Look for the ones with ALL the hardware. Brackets that tie into the frame, not just hooks.

Sorry if I'm missing something here but the whole of that tire's wind/weight resistance is supported by that little pin?? Seems kind of weak, seems like it would rattle. The carrier looks fine but is there a stop somewhere in case that pin gives out? Is there a stouter pin set-up??

:agree: But good luck finding one. There's several guys on here including myself that intend to build our own. Here's a thread about it; viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23543 Mine is home-made. Ties into an after market step bumper with 3/16 angle & square tube. One of the easiest things to fab up. Go to an RV/hitch welder and see what it'd cost to have them make one.