ParadiseMJ

What is the best way to remove the nut on the HB. I have tried just turning it, but the whole thing turns. I've put it in gear and it still just turns. How can I hold the crank to turn the nut?? I've heard you can just put the breaker on, brace it on one end and give the engine a crank with the key...but I'm a bit leery to try that method for fear of screwing something else up. The HB needs to be replaced as the rubber isolator has worked itself about 1/4 of the way out and I'm not driving it til I can get 'r done. As yet there's no damage to the timing cover or anything else.

First, check to see that your battery cables are in good shape, clean, grounded & tight. Assuming you have an automatic I'd be looking at the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). Try to see if you can start it in Neutral. Do a search on NSS cleaning.

I've never had to remove the whole pump, but, the top right bolt (13mm?)on the water pump screws in to the P/S bracket. All I've ever done is to loosen the 1/2" bolts on the "C" so there's a little wiggle room to slide the water pump out once you've removed the other W/P mounting bolts (including the one that screws in to the P/S bracket). I already have the pivot bolt loosened and I can move it juuust enough to get the WP out. I only discovered this when I was changing the WP and P/S pump on the same day and did them in the wrong order. :doh:

My XJ: HD Hayden cooler (fin & tube) - mounted midway between mech. fan and e-fan with a 1" spacer between the condenser and cooler. No quick-discos, all flared fittings with hose barbs and clamps. Summer mode: No radiator loop. Tranny, cooler, tranny. Winter mode: Move 1 hose to radiator loop and add a hose back to cooler. Temp gauge has only been past 180 once (up to 220) in 2+ years. MJ is a 5 speed.

Registering is painless, you can add as many vehicles as you want...and free. :dunno: Not always the most complete source for guidance, but it's a start.

I replaced the stripping on my XJ but still had an issue with the "visible space" behind my left ear. After trying to figure it out (bend the door, shim the door etc.). I simply loosened the door striker bolt, moved it in about 1/8 to 1/4" and re-tightened the bolt. No more visible space, no more wind noise, no more leaking.

That is funny!! :rotf:

I've already replaced both sockets in front. New bulbs, the blinkers and parks ACTUALLY work fine. The corner lights work. the rears, the reverse lights, good. I'm tending to go with cleaning (or replacing) the vac switch on the TC.

Do you have tail lights? I believe the dash & tails share a common fuse.

OK, I got the reverse lights and the brake lights separated, they work when they're supposed to. The 3rd brake light works like it should, doesn't get confused with the blinkers or the headlights. My other 2 issues are: 1. The blinker indicators on the dash stay on whenever the headlights are on. The blinkers work fine, front & back, but the indicators stay on. I even disconnected the 3rd brake light to see if that was causing the problem. 2. The Part Time (NP231) light is always on even when the TC is not engaged. been like this since I got it running. I've had it on a rack to see if the 4wd was actually on and working and engaging in/out of 4x4. The light persists. :dunno: Tail light ground is in good shape, shiny & tight. Can these two things be related or am I just going nuts? :wall:

Well, the brake light works as planned. It's wired right off the brake switch and there's only 1 wire. When I turn the lights on the brake light stays off, blinkers stay off too. I also disconnected the 3rd light to see if anything changed, it didn't. Now though, I disconnected the 2nd splice job the PO did and found that he had grounded the harness in two places. Seemed weird, but now the reverse lights do not come on with the brake lights...and they work in reverse. My other issue of the blinker indicators staying lit all the time is still happening. When my parking lights were out, I replaced the first socket and lit it up to see if was working and it was, but the other blinker was not and THAT indicator was steady on. When I fixed both sockets it was all good.

Background: The wires leading to the tailight harness were spliced (before the taillight harness) to run the trailer wiring. The PO made a funky job of it, so I took off all the splices, shrink wrapped all the wires at the point of each splice as insulation and then wrapped them all together. The PO also made another set of splices (for the same reason) under the cab, and had mounted the trailer connector at the wheel well INSIDE the cab. I'm going to give them the same treatment (remove splices, insulate, wrap). I don't think there could have been any way that the wires in the rear were crossed as I separated them all first. I suppose there could be some leakage there though. I may have to find another harness (cab to tails) at the JY. When it comes to wiring, I'm a :dunce: .

So, anybody know why my reverse lights would come on with the brake lights. Could there be any possibility that installing the 3rd brake light would crossover to the reverse lights. It's just a simple connection FROM the brake light switch TO the light. The other wire is grounded to the cab. Added note: The blinkers work fine, front and back, but when I turn the head lights on, both blinker indicators on the dash are lit!!?

Well, I decided to tackle my electrical gemilins today. Dome lights. :dunce: I bought two new bulbs, tested the circuit, all good. No light. Door switches...good, switches rotate etc. I read on here to shine up the contacts in the light. Worked great!! I got domes. Blinkers - Rears worked fine, fronts never worked, I got the front header panel at the JY. I opened it up and found two blown bulbs, and 2 totally corroded sockets. Replaced the sockets and bulbs, I got front blinkers. Parking, side markers - After the new sockets, parking lights work fine, nice and bright. Side markers WERE working, one was out, then both. I whacked the side of the fender, and they both came on (still have issues there). Brake lights - Work fine, including the user installed third brake light. Only problem...When the brakes light up, so do the reverse lights. :dunno:

HO heater valve. (no pressure bottle) I relocated the vac reservoir here. HO t-stat housing with air bleeder (works like a charm)

If you just want to replace stock shocks?, no lift?, no major off road?. Monroe Ultras, good, affordable, steady. Otherwise you can pay alot more for shiny shocks with a cool name. If you're lifted, bigger tires, do alot of crawling or other off road action, keep searching, can't be that hard to find.

If there is a socket behind the light panel, you may already have the wiring installed. Put a bulb in there. If no socket, :dunno:

That did enter my mind. Just running some 10w-30 synthetic oil around the block a couple times might just shine up the inside a bit, which is all I really wanna do. I really don't expect a full on "flush", just more or less a wash down of the inside.

I haven't gotten around to draining the BA-10 5 speed trans on the MJ, until today. I drove it around town for a bit beforehand just to make sure it was warm. The stuff that came out was kind of a funky chunky thinnish gelatinous goop (not metal chunks, no metal on the magnet when I swirled it around in the goo). I didn't expect super clean oil because the PO did not maintain this Jeep like I would. My question for today is: What can I run through it to clean the inside of the trans?? Regular oil? Kerosene? I just would like to get all the crap out of there. Anybody ever done this?? ...or should I just fill it up and call it good? The BA10 is staying in the truck until I can get the AW4 I have up to snuff for the swap.

I know, it sounds like something out of the 60's but... How much friction modifier for a D44 LSD, or do I just buy the gear oil that says "for Limited Slip Differentials"?? Is there a recipe, a percentage or what??

IIRC, it goes o-ring, spacer, oring (the spacer being the little plastic ring...should pop right in.

:hijack: Mine don't work either, they rotate, new bulbs, new headlight switch, current at the socket. What's missing. I'm interested!! Also is there a courtesy light (footwell)?? Or wiring for it? To the OP: Are the door switches all rusted out/corroded and funky like mine??

...of course, depending on the trans, and the gearing, and the wheels, and the hitch, towing capability will be different. i.e. if you have an AW4 with a D44 with 4.10 (or even 3.55) gears and 235's it's going to be a whole different story if you have a BA-10 with a D35 and 3.07's with 31" tires. 1400 lbs. of dirt (or whatever) plunked in the bed is also going to going to be different than trying to TOW a 3500 lb. boat with 500 lb. tongue weight...and a small5th wheel set-up, still different. You just gotta remember that the little MJ is surely a tough truck but it'll never tow like a 1/2 ton full size with a V-8. Just not enough beef. I tow a little 5X6 utility trailer behind my XJ with about 500 lbs. (about 1K lbs. total) of gear over hill and dale and hardly know it's there except for the stiff suspension on the trailer. I also tow a 18' light weight (about 400 lbs. total weight) canoe trailer with superb suspension and unless I look in my mirrors it's like I'm free wheeling. Then, there's the brakes. If you're towing something that weighs more than the truck, you got issues unless you have good trailer brakes.

Dex/Merc (Dex 4) has been the only ATF in my 1990 AW4 slushbox for 4-5 years and about 50K miles. If it's not good for my tranny then I'm screwed. Now ATF+4 is a different story. That's for Fords.

I used to get whatever brand of Dex III at AutoZone or Kragen. Getting harder to find, I use Dex IIII (or anything labeled Dex III or better) now. I'm not looking for brand, just the Dex (III or IIII).