ParadiseMJ

I have 3 hitches that go into my receiver. One is a straight hitch, no drop, one has 2" drop, the other has a 3" drop. I got all of them at Wal-Mart. I have 3 trailers, 2 Jeeps, all different heights. There is also an adjustable hitch with 1"-4" drop and 3 different size balls (I don't have one of those). I also have a receiver hook, and a d-ring/clevis set-up. What you need is a 2" receiver, all kinds of applications. Bike rack, tire carrier, aux. rack etc. etc.

Long time no post. The project is coming along, got it smogged, registered and legal. The first try at smog failed because the roll over valves at the top of the tank were mangled by the PO. I thought it was going to be a beeotch getting to them, but I only had to drop the tank about 1/4 way. Gave me a chance to replace the funky straps and strap bolts. All buttoned up there and smogged great second time. I found that the exhaust hanger had been unbolted and was a major source of rattling. The tank skid can go on now. As far as the engine compartment, everything is just about finished to how it SHOULD be. Wiring is tight, all lights operational. There's also an issue with the clutch hose fitting leaking but I think I just need to put some thread sealer on there and tighten it back up. The truck is now being painted. More and pics...later.

My 88 MJ has the wiring for the fan. I have a 5 speed with A/C. I can't say if yours is set up for it. When I got the MJ had no fan. I got a nice curved blade fan off of a 95-96 XJ at the local junkyard. There are certainly mounting spots on the radiator support and you COULD just wire in a fan directly to a switch on your dash. Junkyard fans are about $10-$15. They should have a battery setup to test the fan motor. Pull one, test it, install it, wire it. Good to go.

I just got one of those on Saturday at a garage sale for $1. Also good for holding the top end of my shocks while turning bolt...and I'm trying it on other stuff. Great tool!!

I was doing some other things to my engine last week. I noticed that one of my pulley screws was missing. I said, no biggie, I'll fix it later. Next day, got a loose fan belt kind of sound, I was headed home so I didn't really worry about it. About a 1/2 mile from home my belt broke, lost power steering and my temp shot up to about 240 as I pulled into the driveway. All the bolts but one were gone, the pulley was bound up and my brand new Gatorback was gone. So, be sure you're pulley bolts are tight when you replace it. I used new bolts and lock washers on it. I've been able to get about 1/4 turn on them every other day until yesterday when I declared them "tight enough". Hard to get them nice n' tight when the !$%@#% pulley turns, tight belt or not.

If you're looking at the back of the Jeep, go to the other end. :yes:

3 bolts, each side...reach up under the bumper...or lay down under the truck. The other options are: Remove the flares and paint them (but that's alot harder than taking the bumper off). Carefully mask off the bumper and flares, paint.

Seems to me that an irregular surface like undercoating holds dirt, which holds water, salt etc. which causes rust (and most of the spray on undercoating I've seen flakes off after a year or two. POR 15, smooth, hard, no penetration of water or road chems hoses off easily etc.

Yup. Seat belt light upper right, not lit. Otherwise that's all I got on my 88, no cel, no ABS

Junk yard??

Well, there is better stuff. POR 15 for instance, hard as a rock, will stay clung to metal for longer than the metal will last. Rustoleum can helpbut it's not a long term solution, maybe one season in the West/South, probably less in Rustyland (PA). Pretty much a cosmetic until your first trip to the mud (or even a rainy day).

If I had access to buckets from a 2 door XJ I'd do it a minute. All you really need to do is drill out the "rivets" on the XJ brackets/sliders and replace them with the MJ brackets/sliders

Assuming you have the metal trim and not the rubber... With a small screwdriver lift up one corner of the SIDE trim and work it off, towards the top, be careful not to break too many of the "slide" clips. When you have at least one side off you can do the same to the bottom trim. On my 88 the trim is held together by about a 2" junction. One side or the other will come off with that piece.

The Taurus fan will never move as much air as the mech. fan, especially "in town" idling or slo & go. I'd say your problem lies with AIR circulation, not coolant. Only 2 speeds and not associated with RPM. The mech fan should be doing it's best work then, if it's working right.

...and a hole in your bank acount from all the other parts for the front. Trac-bar, control arms, drop pit, etc.

My truck (88 MJ 4.0 4x4 SWB) has a knock, or more accurately a tap. I'm trying to tell the difference between some valve (rocker arm) clatter and an exhaust leak. It sounds like it's coming from the front of the engine, louder when cold, quieter or non-existent when up to temp. There is eveidence of a weld at cyl. #1 on the ex. manifold At this point I've changed the oil twice in a month, mostly because I didn't know when the PO had done it last but also because it sat for ~1 year in his barn. It fires right up, runs well and smogged just about perfect. So my question is: Is there an upgraded manifold, all I've seen are for 91 and up for headers, but not for RENIX engines.

The horn's never worked on my MJ. The horn ITSELF works but not via the wheel. It came with the wheel off halfway off (the nut is there, 1/2 off, but it hasn't been pulled. The PO was in the process of putting in a Grant wheel. I'm waffling on completing the Grant install or Just keeping the stock wheel (no airbag). I'd like to know the outcome of this, or at least the fix either way.

I inherited an XJ when my father died, my mom wanted it gone, I obliged. That was 7 years ago. It had some problems, it wouldn't smog, the leafs were sagging and it leaked out the RMS like crazy. I took it to my trusted mechanic (he's trusted and he's done alot of cool stuff for me for free and stuff I never even asked him to do for free. I wanted the oil leak stopped - he quoted me ~$600~all labor. So I grabbed a manual (Haynes, which was all but worthless) and googled alot until I felt comfortable doing the RMS. It took me all day, from 8-5...but I never MADE $600 in a day so I was good. I played around with it, took it camping, it had a tow package and I had a trailer for hauling stuff around. I decided I wanted to lift it because all the OTHER XJ's made mine look puny. So I threw a 3.5" lift on it...went to play in the woods...and I was hooked. After I had gone through the XJ from front to back repairing and modifying I saw an MJ for sale on the street and I just HAD to have it...but the guy was asking way too much for it. So I bided my time and money for a couple years. I bought this one for $400, delivered 150 miles to my house. It didn't run, the interior was out, it needed everything.

This isn't a hijack, just my experience yesterday. I have done: O2 sensor Coolant Temp Sensor All engine vac lines, CCV etc. All HVAC vac lines All T/C vac lines Cleaned out the valve cover & baffles New gas cap Charcoal cannister lines Checked EGR and EGR solenoid function Plugs, wires, rotor, fuel filter, changed oil. Radiator, hoses, pump etc. Engine runs great, doesn't overheat, this is CA so there's no "inspection" other than under the hood and the gas cap. The rest of the truck is a work in progress. Well, the MJ was about to pass with flying colors. All the engine tests came out clean as a whistle. The last test, CA emissions Evap. Pressure Test. FAIL. The problem is that there are 2 vents in the top of the tank, each has a hose to it, they tee off and go into the vapor return line to the charcoal cannister. In the test they pressurize the tank and pinch off the return line at the cannister. If the tank holds the pressure for ~2 minutes, you pass, if not FAIL. That is you fail the whole thing, no smog, no registration. So I dropped the tank. There are 2 grommet dealio's that have a nipple on them for each of the vent hoses. One of them is gone, one is broken. Does anyone know what these are called, where to get them or ???.

The top pic looks like the hose to the vac cannister for the cruise (if it ever had cruise) OR into the firewall for the HVAC controls (blend doors etc.). The pink line is for the heater control valve. Second pic goes to the charcoal cannister and routes exhaust gasses back to the tank. Third pic should be for charcoal cannister too, just the other end should go along the firewall and hook to your airbox or intake hose.

Don't know about Bosch...at the local NAPA store they have a NAPA Gold (WIX) filter right next to a Fram filter, both neatly cut away to show the guts of same. The Fram has a paper thin element with about half the pleats of the Wix (which has a thicker element) with all the other parts (seal, threads, cup etc.) equally as shamed.

The head sensor is ONLY for the gauge/light. On an HO the sensor for the computer/fan/etc. is on the t-stat

More specifically, a write up for the removal of the rear valve, plugging and removing the un-needed line and connection at the rear.

I am considering taking the ^%@&% thing out, yes, but I just was so stymied by this I wanted to make it work. If I can't I'll likely delete it and plug the one line at the prop valve if that's the right way to do it. (?) I have tried the arm at different angles. I zip tied it up @ 45 deg. My first adjustment was @ zero deg. and I have adjusted it from 0 - to about 15-20 deg. No change. No change on the road and no change in the fluid flow when I bleed it. The wheel cylinders get a nice clean flow at any angle. They didn't. the brakes didn't work at all when I got it. The sensing valve was just hanging there, the fluid was black, all the rubber hoses were dry & crackly, the M/C was toast, the rear shoes and front pads were shot. I've rebuilt/replaced the whole system except the GD valve. Anybody got a link to the delete procedure?? I've seen a drawing but don't really know which line to delete or the thread size for a plug.

Well, I've done just about everything I could think of with some help from you's guys to get my brakes to FEEL like brakes should. Here goes: New pads & calipers Turned rotors New shoes, cylinders and brake hardware in rear, drums turned. Rear brakes adjusted properly All new fluid New MC (bench bled and installed) Booster works fine. Rear Height sensing valve is my problem now. I have 3" of lift in the rear so I knew I'd have to do something to adjust it. I made up the "threaded rod mod", removed the rear brake line and bled the fluid thru the HSV. Nice clean squirt, no air. I've bled the brakes 3 times after flushing all the fluid to nice & clear (in the correct sequence) With the truck empty the angle of the HSV is about 15 degrees up. That is also with the 31 inch spare under the truck. The brakes DO stop me but I just can't get it to that "new brake" feel and it just doesn't seem like I'm getting rear braking. This is turning in to the 2 week brake job. Help me Obi Wan Kenobi...you're my only hope.