ParadiseMJ

You can find a 96 Cherokee with an e-brake pedal????

Sounds like my first wife... :brows: I guess they don't have all those pet names for it - Puko, Pukey, Puke Goat - for nothing. I was curious as to the specifics. Thanks. In looking at the FSM diagrams it does look kinda funky in design...and Pete, thanks for the pics...makes things a little clearer as to the design and manufacture of respective units. AX15 does look beefier.

That was the one and only issue I've had as yet. It pops out of reverse. It's new to me and I have yet to change the oil...but I also don't want to get stuck way out somewhere...cause I don't know what to do. So for now, since it's still a project and not a DD, it's seeing very limited road or trail. I'll drive the XJ to the woods...deal with the suspension issues and have a back-up plan for the MJ...called an AW4 or AX15 ...I thought this would be easier... Thanks guys!!

I have finally gotten the MJ on the road, registered and legal. I took it for a spin (~30 miles) yesterday. 88 4.0L D30/D44 combo, BA-10 w/3.07 gears. 2-3" lift 31" BFG's came with it. Ran great, xlnt throttle response, nice smooth idle (a little knock at idle when cold) shifted through all gears without any issues, got it up to 70 mph, ran at just under 210 with about 50 +/- psi oil pressure. Ride was a little rough and there were some odd noises here and there but nothing too weird. My question - what's wrong with the BA-10, specifically. I know it's considered "light duty" and generally a POS, but for me, this particular trip, it performed very well. Lots of torque, smooth shift, smooth downshift, good on the hills - up AND down, no issues. When they do fail, what fails? Do they just grenade or is it a gradual thing like popping out of gear or trouble shifting? I have an AW4 to swap in when I'm not happy with it or it goes south, but right now I have other issues (like suspension) to deal with. 88 4.0L D30/D44 combo w/3.07 gears. 2-3" lift 31" tires came with it.

Personally, I'd buy a new one. Not a re-man, but new. Make sure your battery is fully charged (and viable, like having it load tested) when you fire up the new one or you could damage the new alt.

They are 10mm x 1.25 30 IIRC. I had to bolt my bed down and I was looking where they bolt in from the TOP, like every OTHER truck I've ever had. No, they bolt in from the bottom. I used stainless bolts, pricey, but I don't wanna have to mess with them for a loooong time. There is a pic floating around here that has the locations. Two at front corner of bed. Two more just ahead of the wheel well. I know where to find the others, I just can't describe it. Someone chime in with the photo. I crawled around underneath with a flashlight and found them.

Is that a "rhymes with witch"-seat? :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Just had to say that as I read it in a S.King book the other day. "The Dome" Something along those lines...only I can't think of a word that it rhymes with. Oh wait. Cushy!!

DAP Aquarium Silicon. You can sink the truck, and leave it sunk and the sealant won't get gummy...it's for aquariums (thus the name) :smart: Any decent silicon sealer should do you fine but that's the most extreme.

I've been taking little trips around the block (2 miles) to test things out as I'm going along. Trans shifts fine, good throttle response, but there are still some unknown rattles and clunks. Went to DMV finally got it legal (I have 2 months before I have to smog it) so now I can take it on some longer trips (as in maybe 10 miles, maybe more) til I get more of the bugs worked out. I found the right bracketry for the tank skid, turns out I only have to modify 1 mount and it'll work fine. More later, including pics.

I have not seen it in person, but I too have seen pics of Dakota 40-20-40 seats in both an MJ and an XJ. Must be something in common as far as mounting go. The 40-20-40 seats have a storage area under the optional uh...er...girl seat. Sorry ladies.

:agree: Long term - you may need to loosen up your spring pack (or at least take the pressure off of them) to slide these in. The squeaking can (and likely is) also be your shackle bushings/bolts. Short term - nothing wrong with lubing them up. I have done that before with great results

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here but I believe that is just a vent hose like this one (lower left corner) I think the blue valve/screen is the end of the t-case vent and/or something similar is a vent for the punkin'

Actually it'd be more like $12

Get some Krylon Fusion Satin Black. It's not FLAT, flat black, but it's not super shiny either. Follow the instructions on the can. If your going to sand the flares, use a very fine Wet/Dry sandpaper or steel wool. New plastic = rub down with mineral spirits or Xylene. Let dry, then paint. Several light coats. Then one finish coat. Old plastic = rub down with straight ammonia. Let dry, then paint. The stuff bonds to plastic, unlike most spray paints. No need for primer (actually primer is not recommended)....and two cans ought to do all four flares. I painted my two fiberglass canoes with the stuff and it has held up great for 3 years (except where I scratched it on rocks, sand etc.).

No, my MJ came with a foobrake with a broken cable (in the cab) and I got the whole set from a donor MJ with a footbrake. Also, I'm sure the front cable would be shorter. The bracket in my XJ is the same though.

Look for one from a Ford Ranger or Chevy S-10.OlderToyotas don't have a bed rail as wide as an MJ while newer (Tacomas) have a more rounded wheel well.

I have an extra bracket just laying here(the part that bolts to the underside of the bed). I also have the little "union" piece. You can have this one just for small shipping (whatever they charge me) I think flat rate priority mail is about 10-11 bucks. I swapped mine out because I got one with the mounting holes for the steel skid plate. Looks a little different but works out the same. The mounting holes on the new one (skid mount) and the holes on the old one match right up. They're slightly different but the new one bolted right up (new one off a long bed, old one off a short bed) The spare one: The new one: Shoot me a PM if you want it

Well, shut my mouth. I guess I haven't done all and seen all. I better go back to school!!

If you have the backing plate (and the lines going to it) you'd need: Wheel cylinders Drums? Shoes and a hardware kit. ...and the e-brake hardware (which you may have to glean from a JY) Sounds like it might be a good time to swap over to rear discs though depending on your axle set-up. Many write-ups on this site and if you're going to spend the dough, you might as well upgrade to better brakes.

I did my first drum brake job in 1969 on my 64' Chevy pick-up. Since then I've done drum brakes on several VW's, a Pinto, 2 Ford trucks, a Volvo, 2 different Mercedes, a couple of other Chevys, a CJ, XJs (a 90 and a 92) both 9", Nissan Maxima and Sentra, Astro van, Mercury Villager and finally (2 weeks ago) my 88 MJ 10" brakes. I have personally never seen a set of drum brakes without the push rods. Somehow I doubt that Chrysler and/or Jeep were innovators in eliminating this part and designing something simpler. I have never gotten the rods in a package, I've always reused the old ones whether I rebuilt the cylinders myself or bought new cylinders. There just isn't enough movement (travel) in the 2.5" wide cylinder to push a tab in the shoe far enough to make the brake effective. Also, why would there be a round hole in the cylinder for a rectangular "tab" on the shoe? Just doesn't make sense. I'm not stupid enough to think that it can't be, or arrogant enough to think that I know it all...I'm just sayin'! Did you adjust the brakes after you put the drum on? How well does your e-brake work?

I have the exact same (maybe not exact) problem. My gauges all work, sometimes. When they don't work, my dash lights work. My dome lights never work. My radio did work, never tried my cig lighter. Clock works, blower, heater, all work. I've changed the headlight switch, replaced ALL the fuses. I have not replaced the ign. switch. I'm watching this thread and I'll chime in if and when I got anything.

X2 Always Heat range be damned. I'd poop my pants if I had to deal with those old rusty plugs.

You can buy a fashionable stick-on clock that lasts forever and isn't affected by disconnecting the battery etc. OR you can buy a stereo/CD player with a clock in it, or wear a watch, or look at your cell phone...Sundial? Seriously though...you don't have a clock "area". I always thought my clock was broken or non existent...I replaced the bulb...works fine.

It's likely that your mechanic quoted you the price for the 4x4 unit bearing, plus parts mark-up, plus labor. Some mechanics see Jeeps and think unit bearing job. That would be a reasonable quote (which is why I do my own work, I'm cheap). Timken unit bearings are ~~$95 each. Unless you've done it before, it can be a B of a job, especially if your knuckles are rusty etc. About a 3 hour job total for a good shop. A whole weekend for me!!!! If you have 4x2, your bearings are as easy as pulling the hub bolt, wobbling out the bearing, same at the back. Either pack with grease or replace (then pack). At worst you can put in new races and bearings for about $80 total. You may want to clarify with the shop that it's a 2 wheel drive...or find another shop. Then again that's also a decent quote for a full front brake job and replacing and packing the tapered roller bearings and races.

$122 ?? For that plus $75 you could convert the rig to an open cooling system with a new radiator and never worry about a "pressure bottle" again.