ParadiseMJ

Thanks. I needed to know whether to make the threaded rod longer or shorter. I'll go out there now and make the cut. ...and OP, sorry about the side track. Paradise - out.

To the OP, there are numerous threads on the "right" way to fix the rear lock up issue. Some insist that swapping out an XJ prop valve, some just keep the MJ prop valve, block one of the rear brake line and plugging it. Even others say to plug the lower front line on the prop valve and install an after market adjustable prop valve. It sounds like you should consider the last option. This doesn't sound like rusty shoes or even fluid on the shoes, it sounds to ME (who doesn't know much about this system) like a fluid delivery problem, like full braking to the rear as if you were loaded down. What position should the height sensing valve be at when the truck is sitting, unloaded so that I can set it at the right spot with the new fittings and threaded rod? Level with ground, slightly up, slightly down??...and how do I get the fluid to flow through it. Slight hijack, I know, sorry guys, but it's relavent. I'm still working on the fix for this. I want to keep the height sensing valve and so I'm trying to do the fix in the picture above.

A grille is not going to make the thing over heat. You have other problems.3 MY rule of thumb, others may disagree. Overheat on hiway at speed: Coolant flow problem. Either a bad waterpump or clogged radiator, heater core or engine coolant galleries. A flush n' fill COULD solve that, especially important is flushing the heater core independently of the rest of the system. Just a garden hose from the top and then alternate to the bottom until no more crap comes out (I have used CLR on the core with great results). An old or worn radiator cap or air in the system are also prime suspects. Overheat at idle, in traffic, under load or slow & go: Air flow problem. As said, the grille is not going to restrict air flow enough to make a difference. Either a bad fan clutch or a bad e-fan. Also check for crap, mud, bugs, leaves etc...and if you have any other accessories in front of the grille/radiator like a winch, a bank of lights etc that WOULD actually restrict air flow. Sounds like a little work but well worth it!

No t-stat and/or cooler t-stat will not keep the truck from overheating, won't control max temps. It will net you lower MPG and a rich condition. I'd be looking at either the pressure bottle/cap or the possibility that you installed the HCV wrong...and there is the ever present possibility that you never got all the air out of the system.

I was told by the local used camper guy that the shell that is the closest in dimension were made for the older (circa 96 and under) Ford Rangers.

I've always wondered why people say that Fram filters are junk, but I never really understood why until today. I'll never use a Fram again. On my XJ I've always run Wix(NAPA) Gold or Purolator oil filters. My MJ had a Fram on it when I got it. Today I changed the oil on both rigs (88 MJ & 90 XJ - both 4.0's). When I pulled the filter on the XJ (Gold), after the usual spillage the filter was about 1/2 full of old oil. But when I pulled the filter on the MJ (Fram) it was bone dry. Also the "filter" part of the filter was semi-collapsed in the filter housing. So, if the filter had no oil in it, it seems to me that it would be empty everytime I started it, essentially a dry start. Does anybody know WHY a Fram would be dry as opposed to a Wix Gold which is full.

X2- My 2 cents - I wouldn't touch it.

It's common to put the calipers on the wrong wheels. There is no marking on which goes to which side. If they're on the wrong side (switched) the bleeders will be on the bottom of the caliper and will never bleed properly. Air bubbles go up and out, they won't go down. I learned this the hard way so if that's the problem don't worry about it, just switch em'.

I have 1.5" spacers (hubcentric) with stock XJ Canyon wheels. I also had to swap out longer studs (the stock studs only stuck out about an inch). Fine for Cragar steelies but not long enough for the spacer and the wheels. Looks great with 31's. No driveability or other issues on hiway or off road.

Salvage yard, junk yard, pick n' pull. Whatever you call it where you are...and there's always e-bay. Paint as necessary.

Like the title says...so I'm replacing the diff oil. The PO said the front D30 had an LSD, but I've never heard of a stock (or otherwise) LSD on a 30. Is the PO just blowing smoke? The rear D44 does have the LSD and the tag to prove it.

Yes, it was the plug AND the sensor.

I have them on my XJ + 2" "lift" springs. They do fine. The 2" spacers and the 2" springs netted me about 3.5" after a year. I really don't see how they could "fall" out even when flexed. However, I probably wouldn't do it again The MJ front is getting 3" coils and the rear an extra leaf (an MJ main leaf, eyes cut off, and a 2" lift shackle.

I've bought several different suspension parts from them. Delivery was a bit slow but customer service was good. They always took care of me. Not necessarily a recommendation, but no horror stories like I've heard from some.

I just dumped my trans fluid yesterday. The capacity of the pan was just under 4 qts. The fluid coming out looked nice n' red but when I compared it to the new fluid it was red opaque as opposed to red clear. I'll probably drive it a couple weeks and dump the pan and refill to get at least 1/2 of the fluid swapped out. Then maybe again in a month or so. I found it helpful to dump the old fluid in something where I could measure and then replace just that much. This worked well because the fluid level was good BEFORE so it should be the same AFTER.

Not true, for sure with the HO 91-92 models. I eliminated the hot water valve several years ago by using the newer XJ heater hoses on my 91, as Chryco did in 96? Forget the year. If your HVAC system is functioning correctly and the HVAC door seals are intact, no heater core hot air will enter the cab. No hot air enters the cab w. the blower off, only ambient air. No hot air enters the cab w. the A/C on, only A/C cold air. X2 - that's what I've found. When I converted my 90 XJ and the 88 MJ to open cooling I eliminated the valve. I have not noticed that there is any heat coming out my vents unless I want it to. I also believe that coolant flowing thru the core keeps the core from building up "crap". Keeps the whole system cleaner.

You might wanna wait til it gets there...then size it up.

Drivers side taillight bucket...and it shares that ground with the fuel pump.

The bottle is "reinforced" at the connections with some metal tubing (on the inside). These things are so prone to overpressurizing and cracking it's reedonkulous. The bottle is THE weak point in the system. short of converting your rig to an open system you likely need a new bottle and cap. As far as the hoses with the crimp on's I cut the fitting off lengthwise and just replaced it with regular hose & clamps.

There are 2 clips/clamps under the carpet. One is just under the carpet/mat by your left foot and another directly under the seat. If you tale the seat out (8 nuts on studs for a bench, 4 for a bucket and fold the carpet back about 8 inches you can access both clips. Pulling the cable out (from the underside of the cab) is just a big long, 3" rubber plug. You could possibly just pull the whole cable out but those clips although small will be hard to pull out. But it's a great oppotunity to check for those rusty floor pans

My truck did not come with a fan either but does have A/C (the PO probably removed it) and a 5 speed. There was a spot for it, the wiring was there, the relay was there. I scored a newer style S-blade fan at the junkyard and it popped right in. In your case the problem sounds more like a fan clutch though IMHO. Rule of thumb, my diagnostics: Overheating on freeway/highway at speed - problem with COOLANT flow. Water pump, clogged channels, radiator. Overheating while crawling, in traffic, under load, slo 'n go and creeping temps - problem with AIR flow which points to fan clutch (or some sort of blockage, bent rad fins, etc.). If you have a newer fan clutch and it's still not cutting it then maybe your new fan clutch is NOT in GWO. BTW - a cooler t-stat will not control max temps. When I converted to open cooling I put in a ZJ HD fan clutch, not the MAX clutch. I don't have a part number, but if you go to NAPA and ask for a ZJ HD clutch they'll likely try to sell you a MAX clutch. The ZJ HD one will fit, the MAX one won't fit.

DELETE : Yes, I would run a single line to the main rubber hose, correct? KEEP: An adjustable (or altered) rod would put it at the proper angle, no?

No compressor, no tool. Might be worth the 40 mile drive to borrow my brothers. But would like to do it without. Air tools are defininitely on my list though.

I am stumped on whether to remove the height sensing valve on my rear axle. I know this has been beat to death but my searching has really only turned up a storm of differing opinion (not that this post won't). What would happen if I just removed the valve and ran the lines into the splitter. I'm concerned about the braking performance, the ease (or difficulty) of finding a replacement if this valve goes south. So far the problems are: Bleeding procedure is screwy, I've tried the procedure of bleeding all four, then opening the front right and slamming on the brake to "shuttle" the prop valve, no difference. The pedal is fine, the booster is fine, the M/C is new (and properly bench bled). All the calipers, pads, shoes, springs and cylinders are brand new. No leaks. Rears are adjusted to a slight drag. Just crappy stopping power. All the rubber hoses are new and the metal lines look to be in good shape. All the fluid is new & clear. It's lifted 3", which affects the position of the valve, and I'm in the process of adapting it to be adjustable with a threaded rod and ball clips. Then the FSM says that anytime you re-set the valve you "must" replace the bushing. It just seems that doing away with the whole thing would be easiest. Sorry, second thread today, but I really need to finish this.

I had it in 2nd, I'll try 5th :huh???: Sorry for my ignorance but how would standing on the brake keep the motor from turning? It's not jacked up, all four wheels are on the ground. :dunno: