ParadiseMJ

I guesss it varies by state but I had a truck drop a baseball size rock on the road, I couldn't avoid it...it mashed my front (factory) chrome bumper. I could have replaced it for $60-70. Body shop wanted $225, for the same bumper, installed! What a deal!! Although I thought the body shop could fix it on their tab I wanted an aftermarket bumper that I found for $300, BUT the insurance adjuster insisted on giving me $450. For a $60 bumper!!! However, if it (the whole MJ) was totaled out (not ruined, just beyond "beneficially mutual") I could buy it for $100 or they'd take it and give me ~~$800. It's lame. However, even if you have mods that "make it worth more" you won't get you $$ out of it, unless you just F up the bumper.

...and yet here, I'd get 75% of Low Blue Book, and totaled on the title. AKA nowhere near the cost of replacement...so it's advantageous to me to drop the collision coverage on it no matter what amount it was "insured for". I have 4 vehicles and the MJ costs me $240 a year for $500,000 liability ($20 month). So 75% of low book would be about $800 OR I could buy the totaled Jeep for $100. I have at least 3K into it so I'd get reamed. Not the insurance company's fault, that's just the law (here in sunny california).

Yes, that's all good, BUT, the sensor that you will get at the parts store is not a temp switch. It does not, and will not control the e-fan on/off. It is only a sensor to tell the computer (on 91+ models). If you want to put the switch into a 91+ t-stat housing you'll have to buy a special temp switch from a GM vehicle. It's only a switch and sends current to the e-fan control relay at a certain temp (~215-220) and turns it off when the temp goes down. So what a RENIX has is: a. a SWITCH in the radiator (for the e-fan control) b. a SENDER, in the back of the head (for the gauge, light) c. a SENSOR, in the block, under the manifold (for the computer) I have done this mod on both my 88 4.0 and my 90 4.0, I did not replace the radiator switch for the fan, I just wired in a switch on my dash thru my e-fan control relay that I can flip on/off at will. If you want it to be automatic, you'll need to buy the right kind of switch for the fan control or it will not work. Also, I deleted the heater control valve in both rigs but the XJ (90) is not affected by the coolant constantly going thru it, but on the MJ (88) it always blows hot. So, a heater control valve (the newer type) will go into the MJ

Bigger tires are not going to change the geometry of the suspension. They could accentuate suspension problems though (worn out trac-bar bushings, LCA, UCA bushings etc.). My money is on bad tire balancing. I had to have my tires balanced 3 times before they got it right.

I have a couple of those laying around that you can have if you really want it. A golf tee makes a good plug for vac line

You could be rubbing with 30's if you have stock wheels too. I know I did on my XJ. Sounds to me like that's your problem. So crank your wheels as far as you can to one side and then crawl under there (you'll want to do this with the truck blocked or in park) and look at where the tire sits. Is it up against the control arm? Anything else blocking/rubbing on the tire. Are there shiny spots on the lower arm.

Adjust them down, some of those lights are too bright for me too, I use my mirror adjuster when I commute to work at 4 am... ...then buy a bag of roofing nails.

This is good advice. They also sell artist spray tips at Ace Hardware that snap right on, they work great. Wide pattern or skinny (invented by a graffiti artist). Wide uses more paint but gives a more even look.

I've done the swap on both RENIX rigs. Contrary to the link posted I didn't feel that I had to use "the most expensive" stuff. Didn't think I needed to buy the Hi Flow pump, or the blue hoses. I also didn't have to remove the header panel to remove the radiator. :huh???: It cost me <$250.00 (each). New 2 row radiator, new OEM water pump, all stock hoses, belt, heater valve, overflow and a cap. Very simple too. You need to order a 92+ radiator. flush entire system, including heater core, remove radiator, flush core again, then flush the rest. Install pump, t-stat, hoses, heater valve and find a good spot for the overflow. On the XJ I put it right next to the radiator. On the MJ I put up where the old pressure bottle was. You can plumb the tranny heat exchanger lines (if you have an automatic) normally but I bypassed the radiator loop and just ran it straight thru to an HD cooler. You'll lose the e-fan actuating switch, as there is no bung on the 92+ radiator for it, but I also just put the fan on a manual switch thru the fan relay to the dash (the e-fan will still come on with the A/C or defrost, just not temp actuated) I know there are other options for that. The whole thing took me about 2 leisurely hours making sure I cleaned everything as I went. Fill with coolant mix and go...

I am probably going open a can of worms here...but I'm replacing bushings this weekend on the MJ. Highway & utility use...some weekend warrior wheeling, nothing over the top. Who uses poly control arm/leaf bushings and why...or why not?? Same question for rubber...why or why not??

I have a 31x10.5 underneath and it fit quite nicely. It hangs down a bit, but nothing that'll get in my way and does not look weird. It's tight up in there, I saw the "donut" that was there in the JY when I picked the spare holder up (yeah, they had donuts even then), pitiful.

If you have a stock bumper it is right above the left hand side of your license plate, it's not really a bolt, it'sm just a smashed piece of pipe designed to turn when you put a crank in it. a regular lug wrench works. I have an aftermarket bumper which covers the hole, so I have to take my tailgate off to get to the hole. Just stick it in there and crank away.

I believe they all came with the reservoir to at least run the HVAC system. You could just have a ball, my MJ does, but mine also has A/C. Still needs the vac res to open/close the doors. Previous owner may have removed it!!? It's IN the front bumper.

Check all the vac lines along the passenger side fender and under the battery to the vac cannister (reservoir) behind the bumper. Sounds like you have a small leak, most likely a cracked/corrded vac hose. As in, some vac is working there when you are off the gas, but not enough under load (a little leaking out). Very common for those hoses to have a break. Replace the offending hose.

Has anyone mentioned a toasty ballast resistor?? A poorly working resistor will still conduct current and allow the pump to be noisy.

My T/C linkage on my XJ is a bit sticky. I now shift into 4 hi moving in Drive and into 4 lo stopped in Neutral.

Yes!! BEEFY.

My take on this would be to replace the whole line and check the condition, carefully, of your other lines. If one line is rusted or corroded out there is a good chance that other lines are having the same issue. I really don't have much in the way of rust issues in CA, but I still have to deal with regular wear and age of things made of steel. I know it may be a beetch to go thru the whole system but it's worth it on the safety end.

Where are you? I have an extra tailgate laying around and I'm going to pick one off another MJ tomorrow. They both have a few dents but one or the other you can have for shipping. I'm in ZIP 95969.

Rocky Road has a bolt on SOA...not recommended by myself and others. I have gotten most of junkyard AND aftermarket %$#T from XJ's or ordering XJ parts. Doors back...no, doors forward, identical (almost).

The rollover valves are ~$25 each at the dealer. I just had to replace mine because they failed my CA emissions. Fixed those, passed with flying colors. Be careful of the little plastic nipples on there, they break easily. The lines T off to a single line to the charcoal cannister and the fumes get sucked out and back into the intake vac line. The big vac line. Check the big line to your cannister too. They get cracked and crumbly.

Yes

I saw an MJ with XJ (apparently) seats at the junkyard. It really wasn't that bad getting to the back with the seats upright. Not having the seats locked in place in the upright would not be an issue for me either since my butt/back would be holding them down. I flipped over an MJ seat and saw the little locking tab. wouldn't seem too hard to grind down the nubbin and weld in a tab (maybe with a little rocker spring (not stock, but workable). If I get to trying it first I too will run a write-up w/pics. Anyhoo, I did get the seats (and matching door panels) for $65 total.

Mini-hijack can you tell me how you did this?? Or reply to my post "Bucket Seat ACCESS" Sorry, back to the swap...

I'm also looking at new (JY) seats for my XJ, different color. when I get those and take the present seats out of the XJ I'm going to tear them apart and see if there is a way to tweak them to fold forward. If I screw them up, no harm, they're going to the dump either way.