ParadiseMJ

Just took the MJ on it's first shakedown in the snow...got a question or two. I just got the MJ all fixed up and have been driving it regularly. This week we got a whopping 4" of snow, up the road about 5 miles and 1000 ft. elev. they got about a foot, further up, two feet, So I took it the 10 miles up to the 2 ft. area. First of all my XJ is a fantastic snow vehicle, it's got an open diff and 31" Cooper "all weather" tires, not aggresive tread, but deep. I've cruised 18" of snow with absolutely no issues. I know you guys that deal with snow all the time will think this is ridiculous, but I'll ask anyway. The MJ has an LSD with 31" BFG A/T KO's. The problem I had with it was the rear would slide out at every corner and upon any acceleration other than a very light pedal. The front was pulling fine...and I don't highball it in the snow, on the street that is. So is it a weight issue, as in an empty bed...and do any of you suffer the same when you're in slippery situations. Do I put some weight back there???

I changed all the gauge faces without removing any needles, it was easy (helps to have a steady hand).

The closed system works fine if it's properly maintained, has no leaks and has no air in the system. The pressure bottles crack, and the caps lose their seals fairly quicky. The same system is used on 80's and 90' era Volvos. My Volvo GL never overheated, just a better bottle IMHO. You need to swap radiators, and heater control valve (if you decide to keep it at all). You do NOT need a new t-stat housing, because there is no switch for the fan, at least there. HO Open system = Temp sensor (which tells the computer when to power the fan as well as adjusts fuel/air mix.) Temp sender (which tells you what your coolant temp is via the gauge) RENIX Temp switch (located in the radiator of a closed system radiator) Temp sender (back of head, for the gauge) Temp sensor (lower driver's side block for the computer, air/fuel etc.) 96? or 97+ Just one sensor in the t-stat housing for everything. I

You're right, I got hung up on Fram right off, I didn't read past my version of " I have a Fram, what do I do" Anyhoo, I have read threads that have eliminated the adapter altogether, and just screwed the filter right in to the block. . All I know for sure is hex head...and...the earth is not flat. P.S. Tequila and beer is my first choice. :cheers:

...but use a hex head bolt on both (if not previously equipped). If you have a Torx on the 91 unit, it can be swapped for a hex bolt of the same size. It "takes" a Fram?? or the dip-wad at the parts counter "sells" you a Fram?? What's wrong with Fram??? The drain back valve is a piece of "outsourced" foreign crap and you'll start dry every time, not good for your mill. NAPA Gold (Wix), Purolator, even STP is a better filter. If you want to see the difference in filters I think NAPA has a cut-away display in their stores of a NAPA Gold vs. a Fram. It's like a Jack Daniels and Bourbon DeLuxe tasting, one is good, the other is doo-doo.

A little prep beforehand. Bag your distributor, relay center (PDC), TPS. I usually don't but I won't recommend that YOU don't. Some folks get things TOO wet and have sensor or performance problems. A good non aerosol degreaser/cleaner like Purple Power, Simple Green or even Dawn dishwashing soap. Key is: Cover the thing with "soap" and let it sit. Rinse it off with a garden hose, with a gun. Repeat. Rinse, Repeat. I like to let it all soak and start it before I rinse it off, then if I'm putting water anywhere I shouldn't be it'll let me know. They (the Car Wash Police) won't let you use the car wash to clean your engine here anymore unless you're using Simple Green or something similar, no aerosol or nasty chemicals (like GUNK). Washing it at a car wash can get it cleaner, but you may "could" mess up sensors etc. with the high pressure gun.

AFAIK there is no fuse for the HVAC other than the blower. Even then I'm not too sure about that. The blower motor resistor is located under the passenger side dash, in the cowling. The A/C relay on both my rigs is here: ...on a RENIX anyway...if you have a 91/92, it's different.

...it's kind of like wiping your butt. You know it's going to get dirty again but you do it anyway. Dirt and grease attract water. Dirt, grease and water cause corrosion, bearing wear, belt and hoses don't last as long. Dirt grease and water compromise electrical connections. It's harder to see parts, bolts, sensors under a layer of D,G & W. Oh, and because it LOOKs good.

On my 90 it's attached by a 1/4" vac hose to the vac reservoir behind the front bumper (although I relocated my reservoir to the engine bay. It crosses over by the cruise servo. The booster line is bigger and plugs in right under the TB

I used a longer bolt with about 7-8 washers. I did not use the original bolt. When the snout was about 1/2 inch from the HB seating, I inserted the original bolt. It's NOT stripped until you get to the end of the bolt itself, then the bolt is chewed up. How do I "chase out" the threads.

Last week I finished my harmonic balancer install and it went fairly well. I had not torqued it down because it started raining and I figured I'd just finish it the next day. So my problem is it WON'T torque down. It just spins. I noticed that the end of the bolt is chewed up. Can I use a shorter bolt or should I re-tap the crank snout...and if so should tap it 1/2" x 20 or?? Any answers? I wanna drive the mutha'.

I was sure that I nailed the install (the fourth time) but, :doh: I switched #2 and #4 plug wires. Runs great now. Thanks.

OK, so my dizzy was chirping and howling, figured I'd just replace it. It was not causing any running or driveability isssues, just the noise. Here's what I did. Removed old dist. Rotated engine to TDC compression (with help from wife). Double checked TDC (you know, it's my wife). Set rotor at 4 o'clock. Set oil pump slot at 11 o'clock. Slid dist in. It turned, engaged and seated, now the rotor is at about 5 o'clock. Put bolt and mounting hardware all back together. Done Replaced cap (and I know the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4)and replaced wires. Fired it up, and it roared to life. The only diffference is that at idle and upon acceleration, first 1000 rpm's it's rough, not sputttering, just rough. After that it's fine. What am I missing?? Is there an adjustment...and how could I be one tooth off if everything was put back the same way. :huh???:

Every (2) MJ I've come across at the junkyard has had taillights. I have not paid more than $20 each. There are some on ebay usually but can be pricey...$50-$100 EACH. I searched...none on there right now, they go fast or $$.

Radiatorbarn.com Just order the post 91 radiator (2 or 3 row) it'll have the filler neck and the trans fittings. they may ask you if it's an automatic or manual...but I think they are all the same nowadays. ...and there ya go!!

There are tranny cooler lines on an AX-15???????????? Really, the AW4 doesn't care if the lines come in from the right or the left. As a matter of fact theAW4 lines are on the passenger side and they cross over to the left side under the oil pan to accomodate the radiator "heat exchanger". In quotes because there is no "cooler" in the radiator. Put an aftermarket cooler in line...doesn't matter which side...if you truly want to COOL the tranny.

Thanks, I've been leery of re-man anything, but since I've been wrenching on cars for 30+ years I've never come across a toasted dizzy. Prices at AZ and NAPA are comparable. Looks like I can do the whole job including cap & rotor for $100. Seems OK to me. Doesn't seem like a NEW one is readily available. The NAPA website lists it w/o "module"...what module...and if it's working do I bother replacing the "module"?? my favorite new smilie

No, I have not pulled it but after searching around the engine with my stethoscope and the belt OFF the noise is definitely coming from the dist housing. I might think that the oil pump is making the sound and transmitting it up the shaft. The internals of the dist look good, new wires. I have to look for an exploded view to see what CAN produce that sound, and so loud.

I've replaced everything in the front of the MJ. All the belt driven accesories are new, including the belt, idler, harmonic balancer. I had the howl, whine, screech (whatever) in this video. Well, it was making the SAME noise when the belt was off, so I started looking for other sources of noise. It IS coming from the distributor. I don't have any performance or drivability issues, just the noise. My question is, am I better off just buying a new (reman) distributor or trying to fix/rebuild this one. And what is it I'm looking for in the distributor shaft? Bearing(s)?? ...and is it just that simple, replacing a bearing?

The last time I went to a car wash to clean my engine the car wash nazi told me I couldn't use their bay to wash an engine. I have been douching my engines for years with simple green and a hose, or Purple Power. No need to get too technical. Just stay away from the critical areas, simple.

Has anyone installed an aftermarket steering wheel and gotten the horn to work??? I put in a Grant wheel...the instructions are a bit sketchy. The horn wire goes thru the old button hole and connects to a spade connector at the horn button. On the other side there is a ground wire spade connector...it's got the little "ground" symbol. The wire grounds to the body of the shaft thru the adapter bolts. What am I missing?? Does the adapter wire stick out the bottom of the plastic piece or inside the button shaft with the spring?? I found 2 extra wires and 2 sets of instructions IN the box, but the picture on the box has a completely different set-up.

If you are in a no snow or mud area (or haven't been in any lately) have your wheels checked out. I had to have mine done 3 times by Less Schwab until they got it right on the 4th try at Big O.

My preferred method for exploration...instead of just sticking your face down there. :cheers:

My XJ has a pink hose, the MJ has a tan hose. I got all heater hoses for about $85, without the valve, which I deleted upon open conversion.

I've got to agree with this. Most accidents are caused by excessive speed and people who don't understand why they can't drive 70 in a snowstorm, with or without 4 wheel drive. You also may want to try getting better tires for the type of driving you do. No car should be slippin' and slidin' at 70 mph unless you're just driving balls out careless.