ParadiseMJ

They paint up real nice with some Fusion satin, just clean them and sprat on a couple coats.

You are crazy!! However, this could be your chance to be a millionaire. The guy who invented the paper clip sold his idea for ~$500. Go figure, they said he was crazy!!

That's how I do it!! It's messed up but Jeep must have done it for some reason...or the clocks were made in China.

I guess I'm not understanding the question. Why would you "drill out" the studs?? Are the nuts stuck on there?? The covers are just for show. If they're coming off you need to use a smaller wrench on what's left...the "real" nut.

Definitely the rubber Fel-Pro gasket. Yes, more $$ but you can also re-use it if necessary. New bolts can be had at local hardware store.. I'm using SS flange bolts. If the hardware store doesn't have them, try NAPA or similar parts store...don't think AutoZone or O'reilly's will have them.

Don't mean to minimize your problem but it sounds like your battery connections are sketchy. My XJ had the same issues, I made sure the cables were shiny & tight, grounds, CPS was fine. "Cept for the battery cables (+) was corroded to s!@$ about half way from battery to starter. That's where I'd look first. Test your CPS next.

Yes, the fronts are different than the rear (on the 44 anyway). Rears are also shorter. I have no clue what the P/N is but if you do some engineering you can either find the right one or one that is real close

I had to go to several parts stores, I did all 20 of mine, and no body had 20. It took a bit of doing but once I had them all it only took ~~15-20 minutes per wheel Some at NAPA, some at Kragen, some at AZ. Tip of the day: when pulling them in, grease the knurl...use a dummy nut, finish with lug nut. Also the inside of the axle flange have a little indent so you're not done til it bottoms out in that indent.

Look for an AX-15 5 speed or AW4 automatic

When bleeding my clutch do I leave the top off of the reservoir or on. I developed a tiny leak in the bleed line junction, which I fixed. Now I have to bleed it to get the pressure back up. I know the clutch is new(ish) 1988 Pioneer BA-10. Everything else runs fine and there is no leakage at the master.

Did you check the clutch fluid (uses brake fluid)? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29982

I haven't turned my hazard lights on in years. We may have crazy smog laws in CA but we don't have to do an all around "inspection". Possible culprits... brake light switch, hazard switch, light sockets, funky trailer wiring.

the white thing

Do you have a camper shell on the Ranger??

Got a 88 MJ and 90 XJ. Both CAD axles. If I convert the axles to always locked, does that mean: Is the Jeep always in 4x4 or does the transfer case linkage contol that now? Do I still need any vacuum lines in that area (do I just cap them all)?? Does it create any more stress on the system as a whole?? What controls the dash light (Part Time)?? Thanks in advance.

What is a shock hoop? Not a BPE or adapter?? What does a shock hoop do??

There are in fact 2 pieces. One is the headlight surround (bezel) that surround the whole light assembly (headlights, parking lights and side markers, the second piece backs up the side marker. I suppose the "proper" nmae for them would be something like the side marker bezel Anybody have a exploded view of the headlight assembly??

If it's a 4x4 look on the transfer case (driver side) for the speedo gear hook up. It's a sensor held down by one bolt and a two prong "fork". The gear is hooked to the speedo cable with a little square end, stuck into a square hole at the head of the cable. The other end of the cable hooks to the gauge cluster in the back, again, square end to square hole...make sure both ends engage. The long fix is to replace the cable, the short fix is to make sure both ends are engaged. If the cable is too tight and holding the cluster back, just climb under and push the cable towards the front to give it some slack. Pull the gauge cluster out, reach back and pinch the plastic connector together, and pull. It should come right out...line it up and push it back together.

I have the LED's and white faces on my XJ...I like it. One word to the wise, don't put an LED bulb in the socket for the high beams or the blinkers....or maybe it's just my old eyes but they are TOO bright there, I had to remove them and put in regular bulbs.

it looks like this when it's on it's way out.

65 1/2" wide 75" long 21 1/2" tall Some campers have a cutout for the 3rd brakelight at the top of the cab, if you have a light there, some don't. Best bet is off of a older Ford Ranger, pre 95, or is it 93? I've been round and round with the used camper guy in town...I take a tape measure...he asked me what year did Jeep?? make a pickup?!?!?! :dunno:

No, the relay I added on the MJ was just for extra lighting. I have yet to dive in to the A/C. I've gone thru the whole system during the build and everything is up and running. I did replace all the other relays though, with new. On my XJ the A/C would cut out (not actually turn off just blow hot) after it ran for 10 or so minutes, then it would miraculously blow cold again...my mechanic rewired another relay just for the A/C which solved THAT problem for good.

I have a couple of added relays on my XJ for lights, and to moderate the voltage draw on the A/C (the mechanic did that one and explained it to me but :dunno:) and only one on the MJ, just for extra lights. There are only 4, besides the starter relay, anything else would have been added.

From right to left there are 5 relays. The last relay (starter relay) is not colored in this pic. It's the one that pretty much everything including batt, alt and all those fusible links. I believe it powers the whole harness.

Hope this helps you.