ParadiseMJ

I've never seen a plastic fuel line...or trans line. But I've also never strayed from a RENIX engine. The connector I "put together" looked just like this though. Sliding plastic clip on to male side, then 0-ring, then spacer, then o-ring, then push straight on and...click!! Did not need a hammer :D

courtesy of fiatslug 5/16 line http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oil-c ... 02745.html 3/8 line http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-oil-c ... 04447.html

My MJ does not have a cargo light or switch but the wiring is in the B pillar and behind the dash. I wired in a third brake light on the cab. This gives me the idea to use a combo brake light/cargo light from a later model Ranger or Toy from the JY.

While you have it apart, check your uniframe bolt areas for cracks and/or "metal fatigue". Might be contributing to the bolts loosening.

If you have hinged, movable vent windows...that would be suspect. My XJ has leaked from various places for years but the biggest leak was when it was parked level or downhill. It was running out of the end of the gutter and across the "seal" on the wing window. I had a puddle on the floor. Fixed the leak with a new seal from the JY. I still park it uphill. It's pretty much uphill or downhill around here. Not much level ground.

I don't mean to be a jerk...but if you have to ask...it'll be VERY hard. Keep looking...find a 4x4, or drive a 4x2.

Yes. If you don't already have the spacer...you need it. Believe me, I spent a half a day trying to wrap my head around this connector. I knew it was o-spacer-o, but putting them in the right place was vexing me. I'd go with the connector all put together like in the link, I wish I had seen that before. The plastic clips can be had in the HELP! section of most parts stores...but if you ask them for the spacer and o-rings, they may just stand there looking at you...I think my parts guy just got back from his lunch/reefer/cocktail break...blank stare. :huh???:

If you have taken the thing off and it's tweaked and won't go back on, buy new clips(5/16")You should replace the whole connector when ever you disconnect it. Toss the old clip assembly EXCEPT the little round spacer inside. Slide a new QD clip (5/16") over the steel tube. The guts should go in o-ring, spacer, o-ring and push straight in until it clicks. If you're missing any of the o-rings or the spacer, it'll leak.

It's GREEN (I know, I know...blue + yellow = etc. etc.) It's GREEN Seek help...See your eye doctor immediately. :eek:

:huh???:

I didn't read the whole title ...Opinions? Personal opinion...Pro: good line of sight coverage Con: Fu-uhgly, tree bait, trailer park, they belong on a 65 Ford truck...in Oklahoma. Personal opinon!! No direct criticism of any person, place or thing in Oklahoma. I know it's beautiful there!!

I refer to my post in the linked thread. Try a smoke test

Move to Arizona, less rain. Seriously though most auto parts and/or hardware stores should have them...got mine at ACE.

...which would equal bad. The clutch (brake) fluid will dissolve the fuse block. If it's leaking from there, fix the leak, and then clean the block, fuse by fuse with QD cleaner. ...and then it COULD be water as there is a 1.5" - 2" wire grommet up in there too. Mine was rotted/missing, and it leaked a little. Time to stand on your head under the dash.

Getting expeennsive!!

Gear ratio? What's your 30 running, if you have a 35 in back gear ratio has to match the 44. Just sayin' If you have to change ratio that $150 can get expensive fast.

Finding the parts in a junkyard is the easy part. Putting in the work is the hard part. Hopefully you have a fully equipped shop and not a gravel driveway >>(like me).

Yes. Big tube on front to intake, small tube on rear to manifold

My 88 was $400. It needed lots of work, paint, interior, some mechanicals. I have spent close to 2K on repairs and upgrades. I saw 3 today on ebay for 5K. My 88 was $400. It needed lots of work, paint, interior, some mechanicals. I have spent close to 2K on repairs and upgrades. I saw 3 today on ebay for 5K. Mine is worth $2K...and priceless. Rinse & repeat. Like said...it all depends

That's the illegal part. Just advice...oh, and federal smog law.

I completely eliminated the HCV on my XJ with no problems...A/C works fine. If you eliminate yours and you find that it isn't working like you want it to, you can always put one in with the hoses you have (some cutting required). The fan relay is on the driver's side, top of fender, right behind the EGR solenoid. If you splice a switch wire in to the orange wire, and power the switch, you'll be good. I don't have a wiring diagram

EGR actuator and EGR solenoid. The top one should go into your fuel pressure regulator...not the valve cover...so it dies when blocked. The only small vac line into you valve cover should be the CCV line. It's entirely possible that it'd run poorly. Some guys have blocked the EGR off altogether. Out here you would not pass smog without a funtioning EGR. You'd also be spewing more into your CAT and the air. You also have a super big line coming out of your CCV in the REAR of the valve cover. More is not necessarily better. It should be a smaller vac line with a metered orofice (.025).

If you convert to open cooling you'll need an HO radiator. Problem is most of the replacement or aftermarket 91+ do not have a bung for the temp switch in the radiator, so if you convert you will NEED a switch in the cab. Also, if you get an HO t-stat housing and try to put a SWITCH in it, you'll need a SWITCH, not a sensor that is in the HO models. You may get lucky and find a <94 corvette switch, but they don't make one for Jeeps. There are 3 types of temp sensors/switches in a RENIX era Jeep. 1. Temp sender (back of head) for the gauge/light. 2. Temp switch (radiator), for the aux. e-fan to turn on at appx. 218-225 3. Coolant temp sensor, to feed info to your ECU for air/fuel mix. The heater control valve is a completely different animal on an open system. First off it's plastic. Next off, they never even used it after 97...as in...straight hose through the heater core. My 90 XJ has no HCV, my 88 MJ does. It can be deleted with no adverse effect to the A/C system OR heater. If you wire in a switch for the e-fan, all you need to do is splice in a switch/power wire to the existing fan relay. Just power off the fuse box and a wire to the fan relay (orange or yellow wire, you won't have both) Can't tell you anything about the A/C, mine is factory and as yet is still R-12 (doesn't work). The XJ is R-134a, works great, but like I said it's factory. The pressure bottle on your closed system needs to HOLD the pressure. Most guys overlook this thinking that it's just an "overflow" tank. Ususally the bottle itself is cracked or the cap is crap. In an open system, all you need is a generic overflow tank. It needs to remain about half full most of the time. As far as hoses go, it depends how you're going to plumb it. If you are just going straight into and out of the heater core, you can use generic hose. If you're including the HCV you'll have to get a bit more creative with a combination of OEM and generic hoses. Your temp SENDER (in the back of the head) or the temp gauge itself is shot. You can use a infrared temp gun to shoot at different parts of the motor, but concentrate on the back of the head and see how it stacks up to the gauge...if it's way off, replace the SENDER. Let us know how it goes.

Strictly my opinion, except for #2. Both of your ideas are: 1. Bad 2. Illegal (Federal Law) 3. Unnecessary :no: Your truck won't run any better, you won't get any better mileage. Leave the cannister, replace the hoses. If you remove the cat and get caught...it's a $1,000 fine, at least...so you decide.