ParadiseMJ

EZ air bleeder: Find a >91, 92 etc. t-stat housing at junkyard. Remove the temp sending unit, install petcock valve. Fill cooling system. Open petcock until no more bubbles. Works like a charm.

(On my XJ) I have 3.5 lift, 31's, 3" BS, aftermarket LCA's and TJ flares. No rubbing, anywhere at full lock and stuffed. I can crank the wheels without ANY rubbing and I have a wicked tight turning radius. On the MJ I have 2" lift (came that way), 31's, stock alloy wheels, 1.5" wheel spacers. No rubbing, yet. Since it's non-op and a work in progress I can't tell you about any rubbing off road, but when I crank the wheels it all looks good. When I flex it (on ramps) the wheel does stuff, but does not hit anything. Of course this is in my driveway, no "real world" action yet.

:dunno: Oops, I thought we were talking about a 3.55...I can read but not well.

OK then. Two "acceptable" (IMO) options for recovery points, front OR back. 1. Hooks (or d-rings) securely bolted to approved brackets, securely bolted/welded to "frame" rails. 2. A hook or d-ring in a hitch receiver securely bolted/welded to "frame" rails. With nylon tow strap without hooks. ...anything else is just dangerous. (IMO)

I'm pretty sure that's how I got into this...My dad did my brakes on my 64 Chevy...made me watch...then he took it all apart and said "now you do it!" That was 40 years ago (damn I'm starting to get old!!) Look for a MJ in a junkyard, with an automatic (AW4), likely it's got a D35 with 3.55's...take the kid with you for muscle.

1. Don't let kids drive Jeep. 2. I'd swap rearends instead of regear too. If the rear is a D35 or D35c should be stamped into the forward part of the the diff. You should find the tags mounted on the diff itself (if they're still there) with gear (and model #) info on it. Someone here has pictures and info on different rear ends. Just make sure you're matching front/rear gear ratios.

I bought the very same lights thinking "wow, upgrade for cheap". These are worth every penny of $12.99. They're bright alright, but they just puked light everywhere, no reliable "beam". They sucked. I put the silverstars back in the next day

Is that a picture of it in your driveway :???:

Thanks. According to Chilton, the studs are standard. Seem kind of weak.

On the 4.0 - the ONE port goes to the MAP. The CCV hose goes to the intake manifold.

So..... Do the bolts screw into nutserts? No one has a picture of bed bolts?? Would begging help?

It's just a "keeper" hole to align the connection correctly. Just to help hold it in place. There's really no need to plug it as it's already "plugged" in the casting.

Self Etching Primer may help it stick better. I have to admit those look good black.

Never seen THAT type of wheel painted. Sorry, I like them the way they are. But they might look good black.

OK, Plan B...or is it Plan D, E, F... :ack: I can get a 91 AW4...out of the Jeep already (XJ) OR I can get the 90 AW4...still IN the other XJ. How much different. Do I need a different TPS, TCU. I don't want to have to futz with a bunch of swapping of electricals. But if I can just walk off with a tranny...my old bones will be happier. Also - the TC for this tranny is gone, so how much trouble is it to change the INPUT shaft on the NP231 I already have (1988) to mate with a 91 AW4

I'm pulling a 1990 AW4 and 242 TC tomorrow from a guy parting out his XJ. Mean to swap into my 88 MJ Need some tips. I have 2 floor jacks, blocks, straps and what I'm thinking are the right hand tools. Any "special" tools? Anything else?? Electrics??

X2 here...I've been doing this for years. I had a Volvo 240GL Turbo...same deal. Turn to on...when the pump stops turn to start, no pedal.

I've tried to find this answer several times on every forum I could think of. The PO of my MJ had the bed off, and either lost or tossed the bed bolts. I thought it'd be a simple affair to find bed bolts for the MJ. So far I've been stumped. Went to Fastenal, NAPA, etc. Nobody seems to know which, or where to find, or how they go on. Does anyone have a spec, drawing or picture of a bonafide MJ bed bolt. I've looked at other pick-ups and all the newer ones have a torx type carriage bolt, but I've been told on this forum that "our bed bolts aren't carriage bolts. So is it just a hex head bolt (which would seem kind of silly since it would stick up into the bed and hang up on s##t. Is it an "elevator bolt? Or what? Give a brother a hand. Thanks in advance

XJ - 31x10.5 - Cooper A/T - more of a highway tire. MJ - 31x10.5 - BFG A/T - nuff said.

Thanks, I saved the picture. I still have to climb under there and check it out...maybe this weekend. Then maybe I'll post up a photo and offer a trade if it's not fitting. Not plastic...steel. Has drain holes/vents. I never had ANY skid, not even plastic. I have no rust (I have no carpet) other than what I can scratch off with a Brillo pad. I have been over the whole truck and no significant rust.

Thanks!!!

If one of the Jeep gods sends me a SWB steel skid, I'd be happy to send him the skid for his LWB :cheers: I haven't clumb under there yet to check it out. We'll see.

Well, I did put in a 3rd brake light. It's from the back of an XJ, I spliced it in to the brake line for the trailer wiring right at the harness. All the brake lights work as they should. The 3rd light does not come on with running lights, blinkers or flashers, just when I hit the brake. The performance of the other lights did not change at all when I put in the 3rd light. Thanks for the link but it didn't really answer any of my stuff. My trailer lighting works great, now. The PO had just hacked it off, it all tested fine at the point of hack, so I just spliced and extended the wires to the plug.

All right. I get the arrow - since I have an AW4 in the XJ that would explain why I've never seen an arrow. In the 5 spd. - arrow as a "recommended" shift point. Seems like overkill, I'm pretty sure I know when to shift. I just may delete that bulb. Soo, any ideas why the PT light is coming on and off when I do not have the TC in 4WD. The vac lines are all good (so far as I can tell) and tight with no air leakage. Could the CAD be sticking or stuck in locked/unlocked.

I'll try to get to it today...I have to work til 6...it'll be dark AND wet here so it may not happen but I'll post it up ASAP.