ParadiseMJ

Oh, sorry...but I need the gate for my own (project) rig. Otherwise I wouldn't have picked it up. I do have the original gate, a bit bashed up (but not too bad)...no charge...except shipping. If you want a photo, I can send you one. PM

I don't know specifically. I piled a bunch of stuff on the counter. Front header panel, gate, taillites, front skid, tank skid, misc. engine parts etc. The guy looked it over and said ..."how about $120 for the whole thing". Whipped out my card, not asking any questions, and I was outta there.

So far at the Junkyard: Tailgate -wrong color, but clean and straight Tank skid (steel) After market TC skid Front skid Class III hitch (under the bumper) Front bumper with hooks and frame mounts & brackets Fuel rail and brand new FPR Full vacuum harness and cold air intake Wing windows Front header panel -same as the tailgate Fuse block (inside) with full inside harness Almost new alternator (tested a-ok) Misc bolts, nuts, connectors Total outgo - $280 Got my eye on an 8.25 and D30 w/4.10's. Project cheep-o coming right along.

...and the proper order of things should be... Spacer goes on first...then the stock rubber isolator...then the spring.

It is kind of a b-tch to get them back on but when you took them off there were, I assume, the little nut clips (little round push on holders). They help alot when holding in the bolts. If the "bolts" aren't usable and they're welded onto the sheet metal parts you can drill them out and JB weld some new (yes, stainless is good) to the sheet metal so's you can line it all up and THEN work the flares around the rubber underliner, get the bolts in the holes, push the inner liner over the bolts and slide the clips on there. That should hold them in place so you can get the nuts on. BONUS: The clips act like fender washers too. http://www.universalwireforms.com/image ... ocknut.gif

Did anyone find out what type bolts I can use to re mount? Regular carriage bolts would seem insufficient (strength wise) and there's no way hold a smooth head to torque the nuts. Are they hex heads or...? some of those "pads" look like they have nutserts...or am I just imagining that?

Not trying to hi-jack, but I'll watch this post to find out what kind and size of bolts are used here. The PO of my Heep removed the bed and never re-bolted it. Looking at other trucks (newer styles, makes) it seems they are using big (t-60+) torx head carriage bolts. The "body" section of the Chilton manual has a good diagram of bed R&R. Not a good explanation though. It starts by saying "remove driver's side tail light connector". There's no good explanation on how to get the bed off other than to say "remove cargo box". Can't be too much rocket science past that. Crawling around under there with a good light should show you what you need to take off.

It's a 7.5 amp fuse, not 75. If you have a BA-10 it may not matter, might just be in the box for an automatic. Anyway, if you have a fuse there you should replace it, even if it tested OK. My XJ with an AW4 had no reverse lights, When I looked at the fuse it looked fine until I looked at it for the 3rd time, it just had a tiiiiiiny line across it and was actually not fine. Replaced it, all OK.

I decided to convert the cooling system to open. Bought a new 92 3 row radiator from radiator barn, got here overnight $160. Old radiator looked to be original. I removed the t-stat and put the housing back on, flushed the whole system with CLR and got a butt load of rust and crap out of the system. Heater core looks relatively newish so after pulling all the old hoses off, I flushed the HC separately and got even more rusty crap out of it. New water pump, junkyard 92 t-stat housing (to install a petcock bleeder), e-fan from a 96 GC (wired through e-fan relay to switch since there is no bung in the new radiator for the temp switch), all new hoses (bypassed and removed heater control valve). Total cost for everything but the radiator was $100. So now I have a brand new cooling system. Yes, $260 seems kind of steep but not when you consider that it already needed at least a new radiator. Now it gets up to 200, hasn't gone past 210 in 200 miles of up, down, slow and go or on the freeway at 70. Heater works great. I do plan on spending alot on this Jeep, both time AND money. On to the oil leaks.

What else have you looked at? Simply replacing a t-stat might fix an overheating problem. There are so many other things that can be causing overheating. Clogged heater core - restricted coolant flow Fan clutch not working properly - air flow Water pump - coolant flow Air in system Low coolant Clogged or restricted radiator Bad head gasket - worst case You'd do well to do some more troubleshooting. There's alot of knowledge on this forum, keep looking.

Will an AW4, column shift, work as a donor, and can it be modified to a floor shift.

It would be sufficient depending on: 1.) What it's mounted to. Screwed to bumper, no. Mounted properly with back braces along the frame rails, yes. In a hitch receiver (even though it says so), probably not. 2.) You're not hanging 10K+ lbs. on it 3.) You're not "jerking" the load. 4.) You're using a strap with the same or better load rating without strap hooks. Respect the load rating, and less. The clevis shackle could probably hold alot more, the Jeep? not so much.

That's everything I needed to know, thanks guys. I messed with the engine side of the connector but did not see the bolt. I have this donor half way pulled apart and the patient dash is already taken apart, but not completely removed. All the wiring in the donor looks great. All wrapped and not krinkly. The engine side of the patyient harness all looks good and I don't really want to futz with that, it all works. As far as the clutch MC, the PO saw the leaking, replaced the MC and seals but I'm thinking I want to lay in and "additional seal" or at least some sort of spacing to keep hydraulic fliud from seeping down the inside if it's a chronic problem waiting to happen again. Thanks again, I'll keep you posted. Note: I've found this CFC MJ and I'm busy stripping everything I can use for my build. So far no one else has touched it, but it's supposed to storm out here next week, so I think I'm safe leaving what's left til better weather.

What is involved with removing the fuse block and wiring from a junkyard donor. My fuse block is saturated and corroded. If I have to replace and re-wire the block, that sounds like a nightmare of wires. ...and if I do get it all off and out is it just plug n' play. The donor is an 89 automatic with a column shift. The patient is a 5 speed BA-10. The 5 speed also looks like it has 2 plugs for the TPS. I assume it's meant for 1.) a 5 speed and 2.) an automatic. One is just hanging out off the harness. Also, would the ECU from the 89 donor plug right in to the 88.

The "cooler" on the radiator would "cool" your PS fluid to about 200F. The plumbing in the radiator is not really a "cooler", just a heat exchanger. In an automatic it's there to bring the trans fluid UP to temp faster. It can't cool any cooler than the temp of the radiator (~190-210). An external cooler plumbed to the return line and in front of the aux. electric fan would truly cool the PS fluid, especially at low speeds. I like the external cooler idea, that's going in when I replace my leaking pump

does anyone have any idea where to get the little grommet things.

I dropped my tank yesterday to prime and paint it and replace the filler hoses before I put the new steel skid on it. On the top of the tank there are 2 little "porcelain" type fittings. One has a hose attached, the other is broken off at the nipple with no hose. The tank is in good shape (for an 88) with only minor surface rust. My question is, do those "nipples" need to have a hose attached AND where do the hoses go?? Would this be cause for a failed smog (CA) when I finally take it down to re-register. Also, if I have a space between the tank and the skid would there be any advantage at all to insulating the tank with that foil/bubble wrap stuff or...?

I have 3.5" on my XJ (4 door) and 31's. I have no lift on my MJ and 31's. The XJ wheel well is a couple inches shorter and narrower. Plenty of clearance on the MJ. Image Not Found

The spring? Sorry, I just had to. :cheers:

So, er, um, that's legal???

The dealer piece is the guts of the OEM connector. Should have 2 o-rings, a spacer, the plastic snap on piece and the "tool". The Dorman part is an adapter to get rid of the quik-disco and adapt it with either a flare fitting or a screw on piece and a hose barb. Something like this: Image Not Found If you don't want to flare, nut, barb, go with the dealer part. All my trans connections on my XJ are done like this.

If yours is anything like mine, the "seal" is toast. Mine has: A lower bushing (metal). A locking pin. An upper bushing, and and upper flat piece that screws to the"bushing". It also has a thrashed rubber "seal". Then the dust boot goes over the whole thing. It needs a rubber "seal" too. I'm in the market if you come up with a source.

Personally, I like Simple Green for dirt and smudged on mechanic hand grime. Simple Green was also making a heavy duty de-greaser which worked great on general engine bay crap...and it didn't make my yard smell like a refinery. Purple Power is great also. I too, find I have to be careful sometimes to not peel off paint or finish.

IF you have a ballast resistor on your 92, you may want to replace it. that would be my best guess for a noisy pump.

What tranny is (was) available in an 88 2 wheel drive, column shift, 4.0L? BA-10 or AX 4.