kryptronic

OP says Central Florida.

Spacers are a no-go in PA, but adapters are OK. So if you use a spacer that bolts to the axel, and your wheel bolts to the spacer, your inspection guy shouldn't have an issue. With that said, in PA it is best to use wheels with the proper offset, but make sure your tread is nearly 100% covered by your flares.

Can you try to clear all cookies youe browser has stored for this site, then close your browser, reopen it and try to login? I'd lile to rule out a corrupted cookie on your machine.

If a photobucket account was deleted, it would not have been undeleted as a result of photobucket's recent change in terms of service. In the fall members of this forum worked to archive all the available images originally on photobucket that were referenced in these forums. The only ones missed were the images posted by photobucket accounts whuch users deleted. Those are lost forever. The majority were saved. CC members fixed this screw up for ourselves and put in place forum image hosting so this never happens again. Moral of the story is use the forum image and stuff like this won"t ever hurt us again. Please.

I looked at it and he said his bottom line price is $1200 because he thinks it's worth that in parts. I doubt it. The unibody is cracked in half at the steering box. As in the front is fully detached from the side rail. The frame underneath is missing substantial portions in all areas. About half the frame is not there. The rear is a D44, he confirmed one of the axels was rusted frozen due to exploded and corroded drums. Springs did not appear to be MT height, but I didn't count leafs. No MT badge on the tailgate. Every single body panel and part was rusted through or needed serious repair. Interior looked like you'd expect for a plow rig. I didn't see the second bed. I said tow rig above. I meant plow rig, that's what the seller said. Obviously covered in salt and left that way. Engine bay looked unmaintained. I didn't even bother asking him to start it. The seller seems honest and is a nice guy. The sum total of it's usable parts probably doesn't cover his $1200 asking price. I saw 'rusted beyond repair' in the ad, and figured that sounded like a challenge, so I took a look. Unfortunately this 92 was far gone years ago.

I looked at this truck last weekend. It's beyond repair, sad to say. It was a tow rig beat hard all it's life. I would say at least half of the rear frame has disappeared over time due to rust.

Once you have some miles on it after the change, I'd appreciate it if you could post back on my thread with feedback, positive or negative. We're lacking information on performance when loaded heavy and also towing. Thank you.

Welcome to the club! There aren't many of us with HO MJs, so we stick together. My number one suggestion to you is to always note that you have a HO when posting in tech. And take pretty much anything HOrnbrod says regarding the HO as gospel. That 2.5L is a great engine and could outlast you, with proper maintenance. For the light trail driving you intend on doing with it, you may even prefer it over a 4.0L. You might want to look at a small 0-2" lift with 31s for your intended purposes. Anything bigger tire-wise, and you will want to swap in a 4.0L. However, at stock height with 235s, I think you'll find the truck perfectly capable.

The YJ valve works well. I think this is because it's desigbed to be all-purpose. The same valve is fitted on models which vary in rear weight substantially. YJs see unloaded soft top configurations (similar to the MJ with an empty bed) as well as hard top configurations with gear, passengers, heavy bumpers, etc. (similar to a loaded MJ). I run a YJ prop valve on my MJ and have no issues. I typically run unloaded, but have had up to 500 lbs in the bed and noticed no issues with rear braking power. I cannot speak to what it would be like at max weight, I have no need to load the MJ to capacity. I think it's a really good replacement option. Check my tutorial on the swap for specific questions.

Your screenshot is showing it in the tab.

Looks lile your browser supports the icons as your other tabs have them. Try closing your browser (all tabs, kill the browser window) then reopen it and load the site. I think you'll see the icon at that point.

It's an 88 so it is a Renix. Yes, there are many differences, and you can tell by just looking at them. Take a look at a pic of an HO engine bay vs yours. Luckily for you, most members here have Renix models, so mostly everyone can readily help you if you have an issue.

Renix would refer to MJs built 86-90 using electronics and systems designed by Renault and Bendix. 91-92 MJs were built by Chrystler using their High Output platform. They are two very different animals, and while many love their Renix MJs, there is no question HO is better.

I've got a 91 Pioneer. Welcome to the club. From my research on the Pioneer... Pioneer was considered the deluxe trim level. In years that both the Pioneer and Chief were offered, Chief would have been considered the only higher level trim than Pioneer. (Inaccurate, Corrected) They were considered the offroad model, and often were optioned with the skid plate package. I am not 100% sure on this, but I think most Pioneers were 4WD. They usually had the deluxe interior, and came standard with items like bumpers and alloy wheels. They had two different decal packages: Renix Pioneers are dressed with hockey stick stripes; and HOs with three wavy stripes. Other than that, info is sparse.

Thank you very much. This should help me figure it out.

I'd take it to somebody with a bigger welder. I seriously doubt you can get the penetration you need with low amps.

Circling back around on this. If anybody has a 91 or 92 MJ, or even an HO XJ, and can take a pic of exactly what the black vacuum line running out of the HVAC system runs to, I'd appreciate it. Please reference the pics in my original post to see what I'm looking for. There are two lines, a white one and a black one. My black one broke and I have no idea if I have it routed to the right spot right now. Vehicle was optioned with cruise control, but it was removed prior to my ownership. Thanks in advance to anyone that takes the time to help.

Microsoft usually inexplicably breaks major functionality with each new release of MSIE. MSIE11 was just updated 42 days ago, and probably included some bugs. I'd wait for a fix from Microsoft. If it works on Chrome/FireFox/Opera/Safari or any other standards compliant browser that properly implements the HTML specification, and it doesn't work on MSIE, then it's an MSIE issue. Thank you for the report.

Paid $105 for 1" taller seat brackets. If there are any problems producing them, or if the price changes, PM me. Thanks.

Agree completely with this. Check out this thread. I bought an eBay header, returned it and went with a Banks. Pics show eBay header vs Banks header fitment.

Krusty is contemplating making a small run of taller seat brackets at a slightly higer price. I think you're under the impression he might be making risers.

1" would be perfect in my opinion.

I'm 6'2". A little higher gives the legs some room to stretch. Could do spacers, but I'd rather have taller brackets.

PAID and PM sent for one set of rollbar brackets. Thank you for doing this, these look fantastic. I'm really excited to be able to correctly mount my factory rollbar. These brackets look like the factory ones, but much heavier duty in design. I'd be interested in bench seat brackets if on a later run you did a variant that had 1" to 1.5" more height. Just throwing that out there for consideration.

Cruise control was an option on the truck but deleted by a previous owner. I have not confirmed it was fully/properly deleted yet. No idea how that's related to my issue, though.