kryptronic

Don is correct. I pulled an OE Bosch pump from my 91 in the fall. The Bosch replacement pump is excellent, while the others are marginal at best. Here is the thread I had in tech concerning my replacement:

Closest I've seen. Can't really see an issue with any of the characters. All the serifs look to be the right size/shape. Very nice.

I did some recent work on this. The closest I found was Arial Black, but it wasn't close enough, so I built the letters needed.

True, very true. But I'm not even going to try to fathom why people do what they do to Jeeps of all sizes and sorts. I've seen some strange stuff, as I'm sure you have.

Maybe leftover remnants of a hand throttle. They are popular here on trail rigs.

Something to this effect should be added to the rules/terms to ease member concerns.

Pete is asking that members check posts they've authored and make sure all the images are in good order, and if not to edit and fix the post. If the images in your posts are all showing up, there's nothing to do.

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Added to my list. I was hoping something like this would work, as it seems overly complicated as it is. Thank you.

I was staring at pics and the FSM for about an hour when I finally realized every pic I had been provided was for a 2WD model. The FSM referenced HVAC and 4WD vacuum sepearately, but never showed how they connect together vacuum-wise. So through deduction, this is what it looks like the FSM would direct you to do. Thanks for the validation.

May 2018: Vacuum and Belt Chirp Fixes I had a post in tech, and did alot of research on proper routing of the black HVAC vacuum line running into the engine bay. It was broken when I got the MJ, and I routed it initially to the vacuum canister via the old cruise control servo connection. Now it's routed to a check valve shared with a vacuum line running from the transfer case. After my research, I believe this is correct. I started driving the truck again a few weeks back, and it developed another case of belt chirp. After alot of diagnosis, I tracked it down to the power steering pump pulley sitting about 1/16" out too far. So I removed the auxilliary fan, and got out the pulley kit. About 10 minutes later and no more chip. Easy win, and I needed one. Having the right tools always helps. I am not a big fan of how the accessories are mounted on the XJ/MJ 4.0L platform. I'd like to go to something simpler, like on my YJ: Would need electric fans, probably a battery relocation to make room for the higher alternator, air conditioning takes up space that might need to be reclaimed and I don't use it. Just thinking out loud. Hmmmm. Since I got the catalytic converter replaced, I think underhood heat is reduced to the point where I'm reconsidering my earlier thoughts about scooping the hood. I think the MJ was retaining heat in the exhaust due to reduced flow, causing (what I considered) higher than normal temps in the engine bay. At this point, I think the stock hood will work and look just great without cutting holes in it. Work continues on Wranglers getting finished before I start digging in deep with Silver Star. The YJ still needs some tub work and final assembly. The TJ needs minor frame rust remediation and inner/outer frame painting. The new JL has a Rubicon take-off suspension waiting to go on which will lift it around 1.5", which I'd like to get on before next winter. My JK needs nothing, but I could always think of something... I'm thinking at this point I'll be driving the MJ at least until the fall before I get to it. I want it to get 100% of my focus.

Thanks for all the help. Between Keyav8er's pic, a real hard look at the FSM, net searches leading me to other forums, and taking a look at this nice looking 91 MJ I saw at a local show this past weekend, I came up with this. Transfer case and HVAC routed to the same check valve: If this is incorrect for my 91 HO, somebody please let me know. I think I got it though.

As the title says, an 87 Comanche Chief in Eastern Viginia. https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1987-jeep-comanche-chief/6599990208.html

That is the evaporation canister for your fuel system. Don't rip it out, fix it.

Thank you. I can"t wait to start doing more to the truck. I have big plans for it and just a few projects to clean up before I can devote full attention to it.

That's what I was thinking. Pull the drag link off the pitman arm, position it lower and see if it clears. When the YJ went SOA a drop pitman arm should have been part of the plan, IMHO. That's stock length in the pic, if I'm not mistaken.

This is right. I was mixed up. By the way it looks I think dropping it would clear at droop.

A pitman arm from an XJ might cure this. They give a 2" drop over the stock YJ pitman arm.

YJ prop valves work exactly the same way as those found in XJ/ZJ vehicles, with each having a different bias for the rear. They look the same, plug and go.

As I read this thread, it looks like at this point he's looking to get full pressure to the rear, and limit it with an inline valve. The YJ prop valve won't work for that (limits rear pressure) so he'd need to use an MJ distribution block. I was recommending the MJ block because it fills his requirements. I didn't think he wanted to add a second warning light, bur I could have missed that.

As there's only one indicator light, a second sensor wouldn't tell you anything. There's a sensor in the MJ distribution block, which to my knowledge doesn't limit braking power to the rear, so using that plus an inline valve on the rear brake line might accomplish what you are looking to do, legally.