kryptronic

Don't freak out, waffleman. These guys are discussing the rabbit hole that is Jeep ownership. We've all got the opinion we might as well fix, modify or enhance everything we see once we crack something open. To get your leak fixed, you could replace every gasket on that engine for under $100 in an afternoon with a jack, jackstands and common tools, like a socket set and torque wrench. The same job at a shop will run in the $400-600 range. Follow other threads on here for tracking down your leak, and fix it properly. You'll need a new gasket, or three. The most important thing is to ensure you properly torque all bolts. They don't go on as tight as you'd think they would.

You're missing the bottom half of the inspection cover for your transmission. That is not good and you need to get one, but that's not causing your oil leak. It just exposes your transmission to unwanted dirt and grime. Trace the oil to deternine the source of the leak.

I ASSURE YOU, WE'RE OPEN Inspired by the site being down earlier today for a brief minute.

As inspired by the KrustyBaller Fabrications scavenger hunt thread, this thread is dedicated to wacky, funny and cool MJ pics. The posting format is simple: Please include a title, the image and a short story or description. Use comancheclub.com image hosting to post images so this thread will continue to work for everyone in the future. Your pic must include a Jeep Comanche in it. Comments are welcome and encouraged. I'll start off by replying to this post. Have fun.

OK, you pretty much sold me with your post. I'm sending this back. I'm not even sure on exact downpipe fitment and just thinking about modding then coming into a downpipe issue is going to make me go insane. There's no way I'm grinding on my stock intake. So, this is going back. Any recommendations on headers known to fit an HO 4.0L without problems or clearance issues? Jeep Driver recommend Banks or AFE but that pricing is a little salty. I'd do it if that's what's got to be done, though. I've already heard Pacesetters have fitment issues, so they're out.

I'm almost to the point where if I could guarantee fitment without modification, I'd pull the trigger. And based on your responses concerning my issues, and my own feelings, I think this header is going to be returned. This header is supposed to fit with both the earlier square intakes like mine, as well as the later horseshoe intakes, according to the manufacturer. Reviews indicate the header was likely manufactured based on the square intakes as there were fitment issues reported with the horseshoe versions (guys had to dent tube 4 I believe). There were hundreds of excellent fitment reviews on this, and people talking about great welds and minimal bluing. Looks like a good unit, but it is what it is. I was hoping for a good one, I guess.

Thanks for the input. Hearing the height difference looks minimal is good to hear. It is minimal maybe 1/32" off, but those washers are not at 90 degrees as they should be. Being not-a-mechanic, I don't know if what I'm looking at here is normal (and why step washers are used by the factory), or if what I'm seeing is a bad thing. I have room to grind that output flange up to 1/8" before I run into what would be the mounting surface for the output gasket. I'm just not sure if 1/8" of clearance is enough if I do grind. I checked downpipe against the output and it's significantly smaller in diameter, matching the stock output flange's size. Both the stock manifold and this header look to dump in the exact same location, give or take 1/4". I'm using the stock downpipe, and could cut weld it's mounting bracket to any location I want, if fitment is off at all. The rest of the exhaust will not be mounted until this header situation is straightened out.

If you mean the output gasket that the downpipe fits over, I have no idea. The header came with one, and I have a Crown OEM replacement, and they're both the same. The output flange on the header (the piece the downpipe connector bolts through) has a bigger outer diameter than stock, so I could grind that to increase clearance, but I'm not sure if I can get more than 1/8" or so out off of it. The output pipe and gasket fitment are fine. It's just that the output flange is nearly rubbing the block.

MODS: This post pertains to a 95 YJ, although contains questions and pictures applicable to the 91/92 HO MJ platform. I was instructed to post it in the pub, and it would be moved to tech, if necessary. Thank you. I'm currently building a 95 YJ Wrangler ahead of my 91 MJ. Both share the same drivetrain and systems (HO). I'm using much of what I do on the drivetrain for this particular YJ as the 'recipe' for the MJ. I'm currently working on the 4.0L HO engine, and have run into a bit of an issue. I would be grateful for the sage advice of fellow CC members on this. Here is a pic of the HO in question: The engine is original to the YJ, was cast in 1994, and is identical to the setup found on the 91/92 MJ. It uses the square HO intake and the desireable HO 7120 head. This engine has 36,000 original miles on it and is mated to an AX-15 in front of an NP231. This engine has gotten cleaned up, painted, all the aluminum blasted and cleared, all new felpro gaskets, new 4 hole injectors, new cooling, etc. I didn't touch any internals. Clean up and extreme tune up. I've learned over the years that the farther away you move from stock on Jeep builds, the more mods you have to make to compensate. It's the nature of the beast, and it's a compounding issue. With this engine, the only mod I made that I would consider a true departure from stock was the introduction of a header instead of using the stock exhaust manifold. I opened up the exhaust a bit with a free flow cat and muffler, and want to top that off with a header. NOTE: Please don't turn this into a debate as to whether or not a header is necessary, or offers any advantage. I'd like to run one. As luck would have it, I have an issue. I used a DNA Motoring header I bought for cheap ($70) on eBay which had a ton of good reviews all over the net. I believe it's the same style as the APN header everybody recommends for the HO. I would have paid twice as much for an APN, if I could have found one. Price isn't the issue here, but I'm of the opinion no header for a 4.0L is worth any more than $200. With the header installed, the step washers that secure the header/intake mounting bolts are not perpendicular to the bolts. You can see it in the following pics: It's not terrible, but not straight. I was doing a web search on this and inadvertently (again) stumbled across a CC build thread (forget who, apologies) where the club member had to grind down a portion on each of the step washers to get them to sit flat. Is that what I have to do here? Or is this not bad? After measuring, the header flange is thinner than the stock manifold flange by the amount the step washer is tilted (the stock setup doesn't do this). Additionally, there's a clearance issue near the bottom of the block where the oil pan attaches. The gap between the header output flange and the block is almost non-existant. The stock gap on my MJ is more like 1/4". The output flange is big enough to grind at least 1/8" off of it and still allow the gasket to sit on it completely. It's got a much bigger diameter than stock. I'm not sure it that will still be enough, though. So, what to do? Do I send it back, and if so, does anybody have any recommendations for something that will fit without issue and in the $200 and under price range? Or, do I mod it? If it can be modded. Comments and help are very much welcome. Thank you.

Respectfully, I disagree with this statement. I am living proof this is not the case, although, I concede, I represent a small sample size statistically speaking. I now own an MJ because of renewed interest in the vehicle due to having stumbled upon CC repeatedly for the right answer while building YJs. The community stands out above all others as a definitive resource. Time and time and time again while researching this or that, I found a complete, no-BS answer on CC for my YJ problem. When researching, I was simply Google searching and looking at relevant results. I was doing searches related to D35 disc brake conversions, differences between AMC and Chrysler knuckles on the D30, AX-15 slave cylinder replacement, HO fuel/intake/sensor issue diagnosis, and more. After filtering through results on wrangerforum, jeepforum, naxja, pirate, etc, CC always came up, and always had the most complete answer, backed up with facts. I'm pretty sure there are plenty of Jeep owners who don't have MJs that visit here quite often. They just don't create accounts or ask questions or share experiences. I searched for my MJ for three years (had to be HO), and didn't join CC or make a single post until I owned it. I've probably been getting build info from CC for a decade, and doing some really cool, relevant stuff during that timeframe. This thread started as a request by Pete for homepage ideas. It kind of spun out from there, in large part to a suggestion I made. I apologize for that. I wasn't suggesting 15 different subforums. I was recommending maybe splitting MJ and non-MJ tech and making the site a little more accessible. I'd like to just change my vote and ask for a 'What Did You Do To Your Other Project' thread, and for a note to be added to MJ tech so it reads "For all your Comanche tech needs. NOTE: It's OK to post questions regarding XJ/YJ/ZJ/TJ vehicles here, as long as your post pertains to components found on the MJ.". Thank you.

Sounds like you have all bases covered.

Subforums are evil. Here me out on this concerning tech, though. Tech is the major destination here. It's a draw. Tech right now has 26,400+ topics in it containing 250,000+ posts. It's labeled 'MJ Tech' and at some point, if not now, will become less valuable as information isn't classified and becomes harder to find. Imagine 'MJ Tech' being split up into a few tech forums, not subforums. With current MJ Tech topics possibly being moved over time by volunteers to the right spot. Each one of these could have several thousand relevant posts based on content on CC right now: MJ Tech - Comanche Body, Frame, Suspension, Steering, Shared XJ Components Jeep Engine/Transmission/Systems Tech - 4.0L, 2.5L, 2.8L, AX-4, AX-5, AX-15, TF999, Renix, HO Jeep 4WD/4X4/Axle Tech - NP231, AMC 20, Dana 30/35/44, Chrysler 8.25, Brakes EPIC Jeep Tech - Welding, Fabrication, Body and Paint, Extreme Modifications, Conversions Ultimately what direction to take the site in is yours, Pete, and we trust in you to make the right decisions. We're all just offering opinions and appreciate the opportunity to do so.

Gotcha. I appreciate that. But the fact that it's not really clear (gray area) is a problem, I think. CC may in fact have more content, more images, more value if this type of thing was addressed and clear. Give us HO guys a 'Jeep HO Tech' forum we can run wild in extolling the virtues of the HO and how it's superior to Renix in every way. I've got an HO YJ and an HO MJ. Drivetrains are identical - the YJ is the 'recipe' for much of what's being done to the MJ when the time comes. There are so many similarities between these Jeeps from this era. Expand the audience. The value in this site is that it's a wealth of moderated, accurate information without a bunch of unsupported speculation, advertisements and pissing matches between members. There are plenty of other Jeep people (like us, not boneheads) who would like to be a part of it, if they felt like there was a place for them. There's no apparent place for them.

Is that just when you start to hear the noise (30-40 MPH and above)? Or, does it only happen between 30-40 MPH and goes away above 40 MPH? We're all assuming you've done a common sense cursory check of all the wheel lugs, brakes and body mounts, exhaust hangers/mounts looking for anything lose or broken.

+1, Also, consider this: Right now, I'd be posting pics every couple of days in a 'What Did You Do To Your Other Project' thread. I'm building out a YJ right now ahead of the MJ and will eventually do an 'Other Project' build thread, but not until it's done in the spring. Would love to share some of the stuff I'm doing there. I've got Jeep-related tech issues on the YJ that are applicable to MJs, but I'm reluctant to post them anywhere. For example, I just did a header install on my YJ's 4.0 HO motor and I'm not sure on the fitment. Would love to get some guru advice here. But where to post? You'd see a lot more XJ, YJ, ZJ, TJ traffic with 'Jeep' tech threads that are labeled or classified as such. I've been building my YJ for over a year hardcore now. Been planning, researching and documenting for almost three years. I can't tell you how many times I got the right info from CC for my build, way before I ever found the HO MJ I was waiting for. This is an authoritative source, not just for MJs. You get the right answer, well documented on CC. You don't get that anywhere else. Most of what you see is guys busting each other's balls for running this or that. You know why CC is special, but it's valuable to more that just MJ owners. Way valuable.

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My ex-father-in-law used to build high-end model airplanes. Years ago showed me a roll of foil, that I believe had adhesive on one side, which is used to put chrome trim on models. I believe application required putting down the foil then trimming to fit using a scalpel. Maybe somebody else out here knows what it was, I don't think it's the wax referenced by schardein. Either way, Don, I'm working on restoring those two lower black dash panels for each of our trucks, and will look into the dash clusters as well. Unfortunately the black plastic bonder dried flexible on my test pieces, so I'm back to tan bonder to repair cracks, and a little paint. If I can come up with something that looks NOS, I'll let you know.

YJ flares are retained using a screw through the flare and tub into a small plastic mount. I don't think you'll notice any issues ditching them on an MJ or XJ.

Has anybody tried a chrome paint pen on a black dash? Ive got two black/chrome cluster covers here but both have the chrome rubbed off in places. My thought was to use a paint pen to restore what I had when I get to it, figuring NOS would be unobtainable.

No YJs ever came with pass side drop or a Dana 300. To my knowledge, the TF904/TF999/32RE are basically the same transmission with different names used at different times. They have a 21 spline output. The AW4 is much better from what Ive read.

Not that I recall. It didn't fog the windows up either.

I mentioned it because I had a similar problem that I feared was catastrophic, and turned out to be caused by 25 years of dirt accumulated in a plastic drain tube. When it happened to me, it was a distinctly white cloud of what I thought was smoke. I feared something caught fire. No smell, obviously, it was steam.

This happened on my YJ. The cowl drain was clogged and when the heater was turned on the trapped water turned to steam.

We go every year, since my older kids were young. It's a good time, but lately we've stayed in the all breeds section and vendor alley. I've got a JK, but I go to the show to see the unique stuff. It's a great show in that you'll see old MBs, CJs, YJs, Honchos, MJs and more. I have pics of all my kids over the years in front of the same CJ7 Golden Eagle that's there every year. I always see something I never knew Jeep made. It really is a good time, and you don't really have to spend time looking at modded XJs or JKs if you don't want to. I'd like to go next year and possibly take the MJ. Would be nice if we could get a CC contingent together and set up in the same row/area. Our stock and lightly modified MJs wouldn't look out of place next to each other...

Theres a topic in the NE forum about the show where Tim said they don't favor stock jeeps. It's a lot of modded JKs and XJs. He's right. His Laredo didn't get nearly as many looks as the monster MJ down the row with an 8" neon green lift. It hurt my head to look at it so I didn't grab a pic of it. Sorry.