kryptronic

No, I don't. My desktop is used mainly for work. I won't be installing any plugins on it which scan all inbound content and modify it. That approach may work for most, just not me. Thanks for the tip, though.

Nice, by the way. For reference, here's the custom crown brake line for the YJ, showing the ZJ ends. This is the ZJ disc brake conversion completed on a D35 with the exception of hard lines on the axle and the ebrake cables being hooked up. Here is a good shot of the drop cable on a YJ. It is the same, same location on an MJ. Note that the hard lines on the axle are not in this pic, they would connect to each of the caliper soft cables at the axle mounting bracket, and at the base of the drop cable. And those are Cragar 15"x7" Soft 8 rims.

I can't see the pic due to it being on photobucket, but dug it up via Google Images and located your reply to this post: Very interesting. I think that's what needs to be done here for any type of ZJ disc conversion. Stock cables plus this clevis. Do you have a part number? Also, do you by any chance have part numbers for all three stock ebrake cables (the one from the pedal at the front; two from rear axle)? Thanks.

Do you recall what you did for the parking brake cables? My experience on this conversion is on a YJ. I understand both the explorer and ZJ use a similar style ebrake connector at the backing plate. The stock drum brake ebrake cables (cylindrical end) do not mate up to the ZJ backing plate (requires a rectangular end with a slot in it), and I would assume, if the explorer setup is the same, the explorer doesn't mate up either. So what did you use there? For the YJ, I used a custom crown part number. Most guys just mod the stock cables with a clamp, but I don't think that's your style, and it's not mine.

To do this conversion on a Dana 35 C-Clip Axle: You need 2 caliper mounting brackets, 2 calipers, 2 soft lines (caliper to axle), 2 rotors, 2 sets of shoes, 2 ebrake cables (ZJ ends, MJ length), and 1 frame to axle drop line. You'd need to open the pumpkin on this conversion to be able to remove the axles. To do this conversion on a Dana 35 Non-C-Clip or Dana 44: You additionally may need to redrill holes and/or grind the opening on the 2 caliper mounting brackets, and you will need 2 TJ axle retainers, and will likely be replacing your axle seals as they will need to be removed to get the TJ retainers on. No need to open the pumpkin. I bought a similar kit on eBay when I did my Dana 35. I got them to agree to a $150 best offer. It was rusted, broken junk and not worth the money. I sent it back and bought new parts piece by piece for the conversion. In hindsight, the Crown conversion kit would have been about $50 less than what I did, but I ended up with better parts. If you go with the eBay set, get them to sell it to you for a best offer price, and be prepared to rebuild the capliers, get all new hardware, shoes and rotors, and potentially blast and paint all parts. Also assume all the brake lines will likely be bent up and cut and unusable. The value in what you're looking at there is in the backing plates, and calipers if they're in decent shape. Commonly called the 'pumpkin', aka differential housing.

There is no knuckle on the rear axle. I'm referring to the flexible line that goes from under the bed to the middle of the driver side tube on the axle. Also you're going to need axle retainers from a TJ for your 44 when using ZJ caliper brackets.

I had a similar issue recently and learned that the wiring up and through the steering column to the multiswitch is all involved with the brake lights. My issue ended up being a loose wire in the connector at the base of the steering column. Jiggle those wires when you run out of options.

You won't have to mod the rotor but the caliper backing plate may need a little grinding to fit. Your frame to axle drop line will work. You will need new caliper soft lines and a way to mount them to the axle. You will also need new ebrake cables and will need to run hard line on the axle itself. A ZJ setup will fit 15" wheels with room to spare. Look at the D44 disc break conversions on Stu Offroad. Step by step with pics and part numbers. The only difference will be your ebrake cables.

I have a factory SWB rollbar in my garage pending install. I just measured the OD of the tubing with a dial caliper, and it is exactly 3".

Just experienced a 504 error when POSTing this topic, but it didn't double-POST. Could be time-of-day, load-related.

Hello. I want to report that I got several 504 Gateway Timeout errors here today while posting new private messages. In each case where a timeout was encountered, messages double-POSTed, and that was not a result of a double-POST on my end (no browser reload/refresh). Other users have encountered similar problems when posting replies to forum threads. I have a feeling it may be mail-related as it seems in each instance a mail would have, or could have, been sent. 504 errors would generally indicate a secondary server having issues, like a remote database server or mail server. As the database is being updated, but mails resulting from private messages are not being sent, I would assume this is a mail server issue. Possible fixes would include using sendmail or localhost via SMTP to send mail instead of using a remote host.

Thanks Bonks. Correct. Mounts are the same for SWB and LWB, the bars thenselves are the only difference. What can we do to get this moving?

I'm also looking into fabbing a set, or having a set fabbed for my SWB. I've got pics of all pieces and FSM diagrams but no real measurements or CAD data appears to be available. I'd like to duplicate the factory mounts as closely as possible. Count me as interested.

Does this mean we should leave our images on PB for the time being and not delete our accounts? Do not delete your PhotoBucket account. The coding required to accomplish what Pete is referencing as "the plan" requires your account to be there. First Alex needs to finish the move. Then PhotoBucket gets fixed on CC. Have no worries.

August 2017: Factory SWB Rollbar Acquired Very quick update here. I'm really stoked - the factory SWB rollbar I purchased from club member Gjeep arrived today. It was shipped from California to Pennsylvania via Greyhound bus. It was dropped off for shipment on July 6, was routed and put on a bus on July 16, arrived July 22 in Chicago, spent July 22 through Aug 5 somewhere between Chicago and Philadelphia, and ended up in York, PA today. During the waylay in Chicago I was beginning to worry, and I'm just thankful it arrived. I believe this was my unicorn. It will be blasted and painted and well cared for:

July 2017: Interior Pics and Random Thoughts No meaningful work has been done to the Comanche since my last post in early July. I have been true to my plan and am figuring out what I like and dislike about the vehicle, before I go on modifying it. In the interim since my last post I have completed collecting a full AMC black interior. Actually one, and about three quarters of another. I'm using the best pieces I have for this build, and will not have to source any parts from the burgandy interior when it's pulled. What I've got collected is in very good shape. Plus I got all the interior plastics in AMC Red as well, just in case I needed to source any of the plastic mounting points on the backside of any of the pieces. Here is a pic of the seats laid out prior to cleaning. The top of the left seat had a cursory cleaning done. I'll have to get pics up later of how they looked afterwards. Both were near perfect, aside from the obligatory driver's side vinyl tears and torn felt on the back. You can kind of see some of the other black pieces in the background, all before cleaning. On the AMC black interiors, every bit of info I can locate on them makes me think that they were only offered in 1986 and 1987. I may be mistaken, but can't verify there were any newer MJs with that color interior. Here are a few reference pics of the current interior. These are for my reference, as well as anyone who needs to know what a stock 'deluxe' burgandy interior from 1991 looks like: I'm having a factory SWB rollbar shipped to me from another CC member in California via Greyhound. I'm still waiting for it. It went from Oakland to Las Vegas to Denver to Chicago. It left Chicago on July 22, and I've seen no updates on it since. So, my fingers are crossed that it gets here soon, and hope it's just missing tracking. I got the garage cleaned in early July and got a great deal on shelving at Lowes. I shelved everything I could 24 inches deep and got all my parts organized and cataloged. This allowed me to pull my YJ into the garage and do the final tear down for the tub and drivetrain swap. I have the chassis in one bay ready for the drivetrain, and aside from a little floor work on the YJ, everything is ready to go. I'm behind on that project, it was supposed to be completed in June. More likely August or September. Ultimately I'm thinking I'm going to drive the YJ in the summer months, and the MJ in the fall, winter and spring. So the MJ will likely be going into build mode next spring when the YJ comes out of hibernation. I'm thinking early March, because it will be cold, and I'll be able to blast the rear frame and unibody without sweating to death. That's if I decide to even do all that, I'm not sure it needs or warrants it. But I probably will, I'm OCD. The surface rust on my fuel sending unit is bothering me, and I know it shouldn't, it's not even bad - I'm sure some of you understand. Pic as she sits today: Random notes and build thoughts: Engine cooling is limited by the space in the engine bay. With A/C components and the way the airbox is packed in, the MJ engine bay is tight. Extremely tight when compared to the YJ, which I think could fit a big block in it. I think that's leading to the engine running a little hotter in the MJ than the YJ (same exact drivetrain/electrical), and high residual surface heat on the hood is evident. I plan on combating this by removing the airbox and replacing it with a conical filter, and possibly removing the A/C components. I'm also looking into hood scoops to force air into the engine bay. Would like to do something forward facing, clean and simple - along the lines of what they had on Oldsmobile 442s maybe. At this time I believe I'm going to be building Silver Star out with a 4.5" lift and running BF Goodrich 31x10.5x15 tires on the stock turbine wheels. I will not be cutting the fenders or removing the stock flares, nor will the MJ lose the front spoiler / air dam. I believe this is going to get me the ride height at which I'd be most comfortable. Will probably replace all the suspension components, and will be sure to get the proper control arms with enough clearance to run stock rims. Axles (D30 non-CAD and D35) have already been sourced and are geared at 4.10. I don't want the tires sticking out past the flares an obnoxious amount, and 31s should only stick out around 1/2" on stock rims. Or that's what I figure anyway. We'll see. This plan could change. 32x11.5x15 tires are still on the table, but no bigger. I need to ask a few more questions in tech to see what it really takes to do 32s. Nobody seems to have a straight answer on that. I found out that the previous owner bought the hood and header panel currently on the MJ from Curt. The PO traveled up here to PA from Waldorf, MD to get those pieces for the truck, then I bought it from him in MD and brought it back here a couple miles away from where he got the parts. Small world when you own an MJ, I guess. We finally put two and two together that the hood and header panel on my truck came from him. Which means that the hood graphics were not stock on this truck, they were from a Comanche Chief. The silver on the hood and header is not Silver Star, or it's at least aged better than the rest of the truck. After paint, those hood graphics are going back on, I don't care if they didn't come stock. I like them. I may black out the entire center section on the hood inside the stripes, though. Depends on if the hood gets scooped and how it will all play together. A blacked out hood with silver hood scoop(s) could look cool. I am going with a different side stripe, though - custom, based on stock designs. I really don't like the wavy three lines. I think they're supposed to look like a flag waving. Oh, and this truck is staying silver. It's going to play very nicely against all the black accents and black interior. Doing a color change would be a mistake. Somehow in the graphics package I would like to highlight the MJ has the 4.0L HO. I think my MJ has headers. I can't get a good pic at all, but the exhaust manifold looks nothing like what's on my YJ. There are no expansion tubes on it and the way the pipes feed together looks more like headers than anything stock I've seen. Between upgraded exhaust all the way back, and the upgraded injectors, I've got to say this MJ could literally toast the YJ off the line and for the duration. Same exact drivetrain down to the stock gearing, different aerodynamics, and I have a feeling the MJ has the ante upped a bit. Compression tests resulted in high (perfect) numbers across the board, I know the injectors are upgraded, looks like exhaust is free-flow all the way back. It's fast, and it has pickup. And it's geared at 3.07 right now. Better airflow should help maximize all that. The PO was building this as a keeper, and got the engine swapped and running well. He never said what he did to it, but I'm impressed. Thanks for reading.

There are technical solutions to this issue on CC with PhotoBucket. I have expertise in this area and own a company that has a data center and servers. The forum can be fixed and all those pics can be viewed. It would take a little magic, but it's technically feasible. I reached out to Alexia via PM about a week ago on this and have not gotten a response. I would like to help. Somebody in charge reach out to me when you're tired of looking at bandwidth exceeded messages.

Added York, PA

I used to own a BMW. They have their own saying: "The cost of the BMW is not high, it's the cost of owning the BMW that's high". I'm not kidding, that's for real. And true. I can't tell you how many times mine went in the shop for stupid electrical repairs, etc. Same thing on a pair of Range Rovers I had (a 2001 that had Land Rover electronics, and a 2004 that had BMW electronics). Nightmares. My BMW was a 2004 and by 2007 it was in the shop every three months for a $600 repair. Seat plastic cracked so the seat adjusters don't work = $450. Oil change = $140. Diagnose and fix electrical issues = $600. The BMW-built Range Rover was even worse. I could go on. I owned Jeeps back in the day, and I own only Jeeps now. I played with high end foreign vehicles, and was sorely disappointed. Hate to see somebody else go down that road. Good luck.

Saw Tim at the yard today. Good to meet you today, and again, you've got a fantastic truck. I saw your pile of parts on the way out. I think that tailgate was actually in really good shape. The huge bush in front of it and the smashed rear bumper must have made me look past it when I saw it. Good score. I returned to exchange the J10 rear sliding glass they gave me last week, and get the MJ rear sliding glass. That happened. I also had them pull one of the turbine wheels so I can use it as a spare, the cargo light switch that I verified with Tim he didn't want, and some plastic pieces including the exterior vent covers, and the interior trim from the dash back, not including any dash pieces. There are still some good parts on this truck. Three turbine wheels are on it and they have the caps. The rear appears to be a non-C-clip D35, and the front a CAD D30. Both were geared at 4.10. I thought 86 would have had a solid front axle. Maybe the 4WD was swapped in later, explaining the missing 4x4 badges. Bench seat and brackets are still there, as well as the red carpet, dash and door panels. LWB bedliner stamped JEEP in mediocre condition. Steering column is still in it. Verified the motor, trans and transfer case are all gone. Headliner is still in it too. If anybody does visit this yard, be prepared to spend some time waiting. These guys aren't fast, but the prices are decent. And make sure you check what they give you to be sure it's what you asked for. Everything they pulled for me came out clean without any breakage so they know what they're doing.

10-4.

I saw this MJ last weekend at the yard. It's rough. I got the emblems and rear glass. Actually they pulled the rear glass from a J10 and gave me that, and I didn't realize it until I got home, so I called and they just pulled the MJ glass on Monday for me, and are holding it for me to get on Saturday when I return the J10 glass. Interior is intact, and red. All dash pieces were red. MJ specific interior pieces looked OK. The rear was a D35, I think. Motor already gone. Both tail lights cracked. Tailgate, bed and rear bumper all dented to hell and back, unusable. Still had the vent covers on it. I think the radio is in it. I am running back down on Saturday to swap that glass and will try to grab the radio for Minuit if you don't get it for him.

July 2017: New Shoes and a Bedliner It's been about two weeks since my last post. In the interim I've been cleaning out the garage to make room to remove the tub and drivetrain from my YJ and get them on the new chassis I built for it. I've also been hunting down hard to find Comanche-specific pieces I'll need for my build. I'm happy to say that I have about 95% of the interior pieces in original AMC black, so that's going well. I have a factory SWB rollbar coming from California sometime in the next two weeks from another member on here. Still on the hunt for a factory rear sliding window to replace my sloppy aftermarket unit, and a few other odds and ends. Adding to the list of known issues: Check the rear main seal, oil is accumulating there, losing about a drop of oil onto the driveway every 3-4 days. I also need to check the NP231 output shaft and seal, as that is definitely leaking, more than the RMS, but not badly. Assuming these are cropping up from putting some miles on the truck. I've driven it all over PA and MD and have put on about 500 miles over the last few weeks scrounging up parts. Now here's the real update. As I said earlier, Kurt at Comanche Ranch was holding a SWB factory bedliner for me. I picked it up on June 20. I think the original owner of the bedliner was a painter, as it took hours to clean it up and get old paint splatter off of it, etc. It had been sitting outside for a few years as well. Here it is installed. I have a SWB over-the-rail Pendaliner I now need to get rid of, and as I've got that SWB rollbar coming, I'll likely not be keeping this stock bedliner in once the build is complete. I'd hate to cut it, but like the added bed protection. I am Monstalining the bed during the build, regardless of whether or not a bedliner is utilized. I keep an eye out on the local Craigslist every day for anything that pops up that's YJ or MJ related. I found a guy who was parting out an 86 XJ with some Jeep Turbine wheels wrapped in 235 A/Ts who only wanted $200 for the set of 4. The wheels were pretty nasty to start out with. But they cleaned up nicely. I needed to replace the radials on the truck with A/Ts to get around the yard (it's weeding, pruning season) and really wanted to try out the Turbines. I cleaned them up just enough to match the 'beater' theme the Comanche has going right now. Ultimately the tires will be replaced with 31s (I think) and as I'm lifting the truck, I'll probably run wheels with more backspacing to get a wider track. But I like these, a lot. Over the next few weeks I'll continue finishing the YJ, and will continue to collect rare parts for the MJ.

Correct.

This thread kind of ran wild. I just did this on my 91 Pioneer. Here is what I did (removed rear load sensing valve, replaced MJ distro block with YJ prop valve): (1) Remove the MJ distro block up front and put in a YJ prop valve. You could use a prop valve from a YJ/XJ/ZJ. Or you could do as some here do and plug a port on the MJ distro valve (no proportioning to the rear at all). I am happy to report the YJ valve works perfectly, but I have not ran a load heavier than around 200 lb with it. (2) The YJ/XJ/ZJ prop valves are plugged at the nose, so attach the hard line that ran to the front bottom port of the MJ distro block to the front bottom port of your new prop valve (if you replaced the MJ distro block). Otherwise keep the bottom line plugged into the MJ distro block. (3) Trace the hard line that was connected to the nose of the MJ distro valve to the rear of the truck, cutting it out as you go. The two hard lines cross several times so the only way you'll know you are cutting out the right line is to follow it front to back and cut out 1-2 feet at a time. (4) Remove the rear load sensing valve and T connector. Couple the remaining hard line to the hard line that ran from the T connector to the drop hose. At this point you will have a single hard line running from the bottom port of the prop valve or distro block up front to a coupler, to a shorter hard line to the drop hose. (5) Bleed your brakes and test thoroughly. Once I got full pressure to the rear brakes I blew a hard line on the rear axle, and then a wheel cylinder. I had to replace both hard lines on the axle and both wheel cylinders in order to ensure the integrity of the braking system. Good luck.