kryptronic

I know, but I'm looking to do Marchal for the fogs and rollbar. Those 950s are ginormous.

Thanks. Will do.

I'd like to do these in black and clear as a final touch on my build that I've barely started. Anybody know if Marchal made suitable lights for an MJ rollbar as well?

Just dug these pics up from the 2017 All Breeds Jeep Show held in York, PA in July of this year. There were around 8 or 9 MJs there. Most were new builds done on 17" JK wheels, etc. I think 87MJTIM had one of the nicest trucks there, it's the one behind the Walker clone here: For sale, I think it was around $11k: This eliminator was clean...

https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-comanche-roll-bar/6349110375.html

Title reads '1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer'.

HOrnbrod's got a good point. We have no idea what type of MJ you have. Renix or HO? What to look for to diagnose your issue is going to be highly dependent on the engine and electronics you have.

Can I send you my desirable but malfunctioning radio referenced in my build thread and get credit towards a custom order on a different radio? If so, PM me or otherwise let me know. Thanks.

Update: I've driven about 60 miles since the incident and not a single issue. I'm an engineer by trade, so I don't believe in glitches - no offense, Pete. The plan is to replace all the parts that may have contributed to the failure. I've got a new relay, new ballast resistor and various fuel pump parts to refresh that, but I have not had luck getting a fuel pump. I ordered the Bosch from Amazon because it's really highly rated, but since they've sent two of them that were previously installed/used. So I need to order a fuel pump, should I persist and try to get a new Bosch?

A factory front bracket is now in transit to Krusty. This is underway! Good luck.

PM me. I have a factory set I can loan you. Just the front pieces not the wheelwell pieces, but they'd be easy to figure out. I can send a template of the rollbar feet also to aid in fabbing the wheelwell pieces. Maybe give me a discount on a full set when they're ready?

Get comfortable with it, and make it reliable, and drive it. Its my experience that you can fix anything on an MJ with limited skills and a tight budget.

I'd be happy to contribute to the additional page an HO addendum will require. I think items should probably be noted as HO/Renix and whether or not you need special tools and what they are to perform tests. Items that can be done on the roadside without tools should be highlighted. And don't assume anybody knows anything. I think you'd be surprised what some people will do when you tell them to probe their TPS.

I called them in May and talked to the owner. They still sell the springs but don't manufacture them any more. The new manufacturer uses the Hells Creek patented design. He said everybody thinks they're no longer selling springs, it's just that they're not making them on location any more.

I couldn't reproduce the issue today. I've got spares of just about every HO part that I might need. And I'll look at ignition. My experience with both the crankshaft and camshaft sensors is they only kick on in closed loop. Both contribute to poor idle when not functioning. Thanks for all the info. I'm actually thinking relay or ballast resistor based on symptoms. I'll post back if when I figure it out.

Alright. Update here. Didn't try to start the MJ, but did run codes. I was unaware that fault codes (errors) could exist without a CEL (or more specifically, the CEL not being illuminated). Thank you for the information. Diagnostics produced codes 12 (battery disconnected in last 50 starts) and 55 (end of codes). So OBDI doesn't have anything to go on. Please correct me if I'm wrong. This has happened twice with a cold engine. The engine was not at operating temperature either time it died and would not restart. It is my understanding that the computer is there to optimize engine performance, fuel economy and emissions at operating temperature (known as open loop). The computer functions in a very limited capacity prior to the engine reaching operating temperature (closed loop). During closed loop, no sensors are active or could contribute to a no-start situation, or the engine dying. So that would rule out basically all the sensors. Is this right, or wrong? So the list of things I'm going to look at today, in order: Fuel Pump Relay, Ballast Resistor, Fuel Pump, Ignition

Thanks for all the tips. I'll run codes and check some things out. I'm used to the YJ where the tank does need to drop out to get to the pump. Thanks for pointing out thats not the case with the MJ. I should have thought before I typed.

I didn't check codes, but there is no check engine light. Maybe somebody can verify, but I don't believe there will be any codes on an HO without a CEL. Here's how my last 20 minutes went: My son and I gathered up a fuel pressure gauge, and a vacuum gauge, went over to the MJ, popped open the hood, started it, and within the time it took me to walk around to the front, it died. The same exact way it died before, gently. The only thing to note is that just before it died, I heard a fairly audible low hum coming from the transmission area or rearward. Then it would not start. I verified there was no fuel in the fuel rail by attempting to extract it via the pressure test port. I figured for sure this is a fuel pump, or fuel sending unit issue. I fiddled for a minute, tried a couple of starts, then it started right up. I wasted no time getting gauges hooked up. Fuel pressure read 32 PSI with vacuum, 41 PSI without vacuum. Vacuum was 18 in-Hg. These are very similar numbers to those of my last tests, on 2017-06-19, about 200 miles ago. After the engine settled down from being stressed, I let it run for about five minutes. It ran nicely, without issue, the whole time. Towards the end, I stuck my ear near the gas tank, and I swear the fuel pump is whining at a high pitch. It's always whined a bit during operation, but this was subtly different. Higher pitched, a bit louder than what I've been told is normal. So, I'm thinking it's a fuel pump issue. I have an extra fuel pump in the garage that only has about 200 miles of use on it from a 95 YJ. I have to check whether that will work, it's an HO pump. Not sure if it's a fit for the sender, though. Does anybody think I'm barking up the wrong tree? Or should I run more tests before dropping the tank? Thanks.

I've got a fuel pressure tester here. Let me see what it says.

No idea but it looks very new. PO swapped in a fresher engine about 1000 miles ago and it looks to have been changed at that time.

I'm looking around for rear springs in the 3-4.5" range. If any of this is wrong, somebody correct me... I believe General Spring has the cheapest decent spring available, but the biggest you can get are metric ton springs, which are a smaller lift than what we're looking for. Hells Creek (CC vendor) springs can be had for about $600 plus shipping. I got a quote from Alcan, and they're at $750 for a custom set, and I think that was shipped. From what I've read, those are the only real considerations for somebody who wants their suspension to work properly. Those just going for height are generally advised to go AAL and shackles, and those will sag and ride rough. Rusty's has MJ lift springs, as does Rough Country, but I've not read anything on those springs that would lead me to believe they're the quality I'm looking for. That might be all that's available. What I'm finding is that if you want anything bigger than metric ton springs, you're in the $500+ neighborhood for the pair because they're basically being custom made for you. I believe this is why you see a lot of guys go SOA at ~5.5" and spend that money on the front. I'm leaning towards Alcan right now, as they are custom made, and tuned to your bed length, driving style, etc. But Hells Creek seems to have the edge on the MJ research and development. Tough choices.

Hey guys. Here's the situation. My 91 HO Comanche has been running top notch, no issues. Today I ran back and forth to the comic book store this morning, 10 miles round trip, no problem. About an hour ago I tried to leave to go somewhere else and about a 1/8 mile from home the engine basically revved down to nothing then shut off. So I began my side of the road run-through. Electric looked good, no blown fuses, nothing fried within site, instrument cluster gauge read 12 volts. Belt was on, no blown hoses, etc. Air looked good, no obstructions. I uncapped the port on the fuel rail and verified there was fuel pressure. I tried to listen for the fuel pump pushing fuel, but no hum was present. I was pretty sure it was a fuel issue, but just in case voltage was off, I tried to I walked home, grabbed my JK and tried to jump the MJ with it. No dice. While at the house I grabbed a rubber mallet and I used that to bang various areas around the MJ fuel tank and sender. No dice. Then I completely evacuated all the fuel from the fuel rail using the port on the rail, my key and an old rag. Tried to start the MJ again, and she fired right up. I tried a couple of subsequent stops and starts, and she's running well. A little more vibration that usual, but she's shaken up a bit. I was cranking on the starter here or there for 30 seconds at a clip. Anyway, I'd say the MJ is good right now, but would love to know what the issue was/is. Air or obstruction in the fuel line? Are these the foreboding signs of my 230k fuel pump or sender going up? Bad gas? Something else? I haven't run into this one before. Usually it's a no start from the get-go. Thanks for the input.

I'm in the same boat. I've got a factory rollbar pending install and was looking at possibly installing it in conjunction with my bedliner, which is an OEM under-the-rail SWB liner with 'COMANCHE' lettering. I've also got an over-the-rail SWB liner made by Pendaliner, with 'Pendaliner' lettering, which I believe was the OEM. Neither will work in conjunction with a factory rollbar, muchless any other kind. You'd need to cut the liner substantially just to do the install, which would allow debris to accumulate under it over time. If you wanted to be able to remove the liner without removing the rollbar, to clean said debris, you're cutting way more of the liner to accomplish that. Either way, cutting the liner inhibits it's ability to keep the bed free of debris, as it was designed to do. After much consideration, I'm going to do a spray-in liner prior to installing the rollbar. Both of my drop-in liners are going up for sale on the forum at some point, I don't have the heart to cut either of them. If anybody wants one now, PM me. I'm in York, PA.

No problem. PM me with whatever you need. Maybe you can do a tech writeup when you're done. I've got all the part numbers for the stuff I used as well.

You're the man. Thank you.