DesertRat1991

How long did your Optima last before it started giving you problems?

XJ/MJ use the same backing plate. I know the TJ D44 bearing retainer has a different hole pattern than the XJ/MJ so I assume the backing plates must be different as well. Don't have a TJ manual handy to cross check the p/n though. Stick with XJ/MJ D44 parts and you should be fine.

Same brake specs as the XJ amd TJ rear D44. I used the Crown base kit because it was the most complete I could find, then picked up a set of brake cylinders separately. D44 Drum Brake Kit: 52001915K Brake Cylinders (L/R): 52000848 and 52000849

Can't say I've seen many dyno sheets posted around here lately. But, if you google "jeep stroker forum" you will find there is a forum dedicated entirely to discussing jeep strokers.

First things first, we need pics/vids from this event.

Huh? The correct Walker cat shouldn't be $700. I think I found it for like $80-90 delivered through Amazon. But either way, just buy what you need. The OEM system is 5 separate pieces from the header to the tail pipe. If you don't need a cat then the simplest solution would be to cut the converter out of your oem cat section and weld in straight pipe. This way you can reuse the flange that mates the cat section to the down pipe. On the opposite end, you can use an exhaust pipe clamp to mate your straight pipe to the inlet of whatever muffler you choose.

Compared to the OEM tow hook package, that kit is missing 4 steel brackets. Two L-brackets that spread the load to the front cross member and two side pull reinforcement brackets. Crazy how XJ/MJ support dries up more and more each year. I don't see any complete kits in the aftermarket and can't point you to anything worth buying on ebay either. The RR kit is a decent start but keep your eyes open at the junkyard for the rest of the parts.

My advice is to stay true to your build goals. If you wanted a lean, mean street carver you probably shouldn't have added the lift, tires and 4wd components. If this is a weekend warrior build then it dosen't make a whole lot of sense to invest time and effort into a part that most people disconnect as soon as they hit the dirt anyway. If you don't feel you NEED the swap, then don't do it. Stick to the bare minimum needed to keep the rig manageable on the street. Pick the lightest weight option, that is easiest to flip up out of the way when on dirt. Unless you plan to add significant weight up high on your rig (like a rooftop tent), your stock sway bar should perform fine.

Well done, gents!

She's starving. Not enough fuel or too much air. If it were a head gasket you would usually see blue or white smoke billowing from the exhaust. Since you already checked IAC, inspect all vac lines, intake hose and valve cover gasket for leaks. Do they have Autozone or O'Reilly's up there? If so, you can rent a fuel pressure tester.

Regarding how it would look, the difference between a 33 and a 32 is only 0.5" of additional fender gap. No one will ever notice that other than you. Dropping to 31s will be slightly more noticeable but will give you more of the effect you're looking for. Are those 17" rims? You might also consider dropping down t0 15" to save some weight; might help things feel more peppy.

Agreed with above. Overkill is subjective. An HD tie rod doesn't "do" anything other than resist bending under impact or other shock load. Two things to consider. First, the added strength comes at the cost of added weight. A solid tie rod is probably 3x heavier than the hollow stock unit. Generally, I'd say don't add weight you don't need. Second, on the Synergy website it says that HD tie rod is designed to work only with the Synergy drag link. I don't know why. There are other HD tie rods on the market that mate up just fine with stock / ZJ drag links.

Based upon the info provided: $1 < sale price < $100,000 Pics would help.

If road manners are a priority then a selectable locker would be your best bet. That said, a Truetrac LSD will do 90% of the job for 50% of the cost and 5% of the hassle. A front Truetrac delivers flawless road manners in 2WD daily driving situations. No noise, no steering issues.

Good luck. I made an inquiry via FB last year that dead ended. If you can entice him into a group buy, count me in.

Could be a nice drivetrain swap candidate: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/buford-1992-jeep-comanche-2wd-truck/7367917674.html

ECONOMY are less expensive and may be less durable and/or a less-exact match for original equipment than other lines. Processes used to produce Economy Line parts may result in striations/markings, uneven edges, etc. This is normal and is not indicative of a defect. When replacing symmetrical parts (like taillights or mirrors), we recommend replacing both sides to ensure they match (small differences in gloss or color compared to original may be noticeable if you replace only one side).

Oh my... freshly painted... in black... after a 2 year wait. That first set of AZ pin stripes is really gonna sting.

Whaat....!? You're gonna have to speak louder! This 30y/o pickup truck ain't got A/C so all the windows stay open, all the time!

Here's a set of steelies with beauty rings. I don't recall anything different about the spare, except that it appeared to have the original 195 Michelin still mounted.

Nice turnout! Well done, fellas!

Factory TJ Moabs are actually 16x8 with 5" backspacing. They have less backspacing than most other TJ/XJ/MJ factory wheels which helps to mitigate interference with the control arms but you may still need to shim the steering stops depending on the tire width you choose to run. I'm running this wheel with a 265 tire. IMO, this is just about the limit on factory wheel and tire size if you want to keep your stance inside the stock fender flares.

I'd settle for a light weight version of this bumper without the tubing. Winch-ready with full coverage for uncut fenders. Doesn't seem hard to make, but very hard to find. Wonder if something like that could be custom fabbed for less than the $1,000 the ARB costs..? Gotta hand it to them though, I doubt you'll find a better design anywhere for drilling deer.

Pickings seem very slim for bumpers that don't require cutting. But from what I've seen in pics, the ARB for early XJ/MJ (3450010) should fit with fenders and air dam intact. See below. Maybe someone else can confirm.