Dzimm

Yeah you should read through as many 97+ swaps as possible and take notes. Link in my signature is to my 97+ build thread. I will be happy to answer any more specific questions you have after getting more familiar with what's involved.

There is a lot of good info above but I wanted to reiterate on some points as we just recently bought our first house. - Expect to find something you have to fix that wasn't noticed before moving in. That's just how it works. - Get a realtor of your own. They are a valuable resource for information on the buying process and can be very helpful at pointing things out when looking through a house. They also can show you many houses you may not have even known were for sale or that you could afford. This actually happened to us as the house we bought has an 800sqft shop on a double corner lot that I was not remotely expecting to be able to afford. - Absolutely pay for your own inspection from an inspector of your choosing. This can be incredibly valuable, even if you know what to look for. We got lucky as we had agreed to purchase a house and our inspector ended up finding extensive fire damage in the attic that was not repaired properly nor reported in the disclosure. - The last big thing is to have escape clauses. If your loan falls through or the inspection turns up something drastic are the main ones to have. We went with a USDA loan, which requires the house to be in good shape overall so the fire damage in the first house we wanted fell under both escape clauses, it was a major problem found with the inspection that drastically affects the value of the house AND our loan through USDA would not have gone through due to the improper repair. Just make sure to use your head, don't get too fixated on one place, and don't be afraid to look at multiple other places. We looked at a dozen or so houses before finding the one we are in now and although it was a long process, we a very happy with it. Good luck with you first home purchase!

I'm assuming you are referring to the rear? FEY makes a "universal" bumper that is pretty close to stock design and you can buy them with the proper brackets for the MJ. This is what I have on my 97+ MJ. Stock MJ bumpers pop up in the classifieds section sometimes but you need to have, I believe it's 10 posts before it opens up for you.

The newer pump has the regulator on the pump and doesn't use a regulator on vacuum so retaining the regulator on the HO rail would cause two devices trying to regulate fuel. I suppose now thinking about what you said, if the HO fuel is regulated by manifold vacuum, I'm curious how the 97+ is controlled. It sits atop the fuel pump and has no vacuum or electrical connection. Does anybody know if any of the HO factory service manuals say anything about fuel control? I'll have to look at my 98 FSM to see if I can find anything on that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1MH1UH/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_PIvnCbRB4CEAB

You don't see any potential issues with any of it? I couldn't really find anything that would be an issue in my research but there isnt much useful info that I could find in regards to how the computer measures and adjusts for the fuel/air ratio.

That's a good point, didn't think about that.

So I'm bored at work and therfore doing some thinking and research. I am trying to figure out a way to run the 97+ fuel system (tank, pump, fuel rail, injectors) on my 92. I want to get some thoughts from you guys to see what you think. So here are the problems needed to overcome to make it work 1 - Fuel tank 2 - Fuel pump (fuel pressure regulation) 3 - Fuel level on stock 92 gauge 4 - Single fuel line 5 - Fuel rail 6 - Injectors 1 - So for the fuel tank, my choice would be a Dakota fuel tank because I know it works. Easy enough. 2 - Fuel pump I would use a Dakota pump so it matches the tank height and uses the same wiring as a 97+ XJ pump. This wiring uses the same 4 wires that are on an HO just with a different connector based on what I found so I would need to make an adapter or change out a plug. 3 - Fuel sending unit is a problem. The 97+ resistance range is 33ohms full and 240ohms empty, the 92 resistance is 0ohms empty and 90ohms full. Couple options I can think of. Option one, buy the Fuel Link #SN34, which changes the resistance to match the gauge but it's expensive. Option 2 would be making my own custom resistance regulating circuit, not too hard but would take time and some money. Option 3 would be taking the fuel level arm off the old pump and attaching it to the Dakota pump and splicing that into the Dakota sending wire so it sends the proper resistance. I like option 3 the best but wouldn't want to destroy my working HO fuel pump, nor do I have any experience with the older pumps so I have no idea what the mounting of the fuel level arm is like. 4 - The Dakota tank and pump doesn't have a fuel return line so that's easy enough to just remove the stock return line and only use the supply line. 5 - As far as I know it would be plug and play to swap in the 97+ fuel rail other than removing the HO fuel regulator and plugging the vacuum line. 6 - The fuel injectors would have to be swapped. The HO injectors are 36lb and the 97+ are 49lb from what I'm reading so I would have to run 49lb injectors, and of course run the 4 holes. Question here tho is will the computer play nice with the higher flow rate or will it cause problems or would the computer be able to compensate? This truck will eventually have either a piggy back or a stand alone computer but I need to do these upgrades in stages so I can't go all in at once. I also have a leaking gas tank when I fill over 3/4 tank so I've got to do something soon to the fuel system and I'd rather not buy a new tank just to replace it a year later with something else. I'm also genuinely curious if this is a possible/feasible fuel system upgrade for guys with bad tanks and fuel pumps that will allow for easier replacement part sourcing.

I have a set of the Euramtec. I replaced the bulb with an LED bulb and they are stupid bright.

Find the parts used but they rarely pop up, otherwise find someone to import for you. Better make sure you trust the importer though.

The front brake lines appear to be new so you may some extra slack to deal with once it's back to stock height. Otherwise I think Eagle covered the rest. When you replace the springs/remove the aal, just ubolt the axle side of the trackbar and move it to the other (factory) bolt hole that's in the bracket. The one it is in currently was drilled so the PO could retain the stock trackbar with the extra height, common thing to do.

Try unhooking everything and only connecting the constant 12v, ignition, and ground and see if it does the same thing. Basically just the necessary wires to power the radio, nothing else. Did you check that the wires coming from the truck side are actually reading what they are supposed to with the key on and off? It's weird that it would work normal then act up when clock settings are set.

Yeah this has weird written all over it. Seller has no ratings, has multiple listings for the same item, and has no other items listed.. I've bought dewalt bare tools at lower than normal prices like this from eBay and I've gotten them so the price doesn't seem too far off to me. Maybe you'll get lucky.

As far as I know these camera systems are all universal and stand alone unless you try to utalize standard manufacturers equipment like a factory radio with a big screen, which I've never done myself. The only thing the camera itself needs is power from the reverse light wire and that sends a signal to whatever monitor that it needs to turn on and display the video feed. It's a very simple and slick system. I have only used it with aftermarket radios that support video input, never tried a mirror but I would imagine they are universal as well because it really only needs a power source and a feed from the camera. I would question tho, if she can't see very well because she's very small, would the video on the mirror be large enough for her to see clearly?

I've installed one of those cheap Amazon ones that pluged into an aftermarket radio. Worked well and the picture was actually pretty good. Install was very easy as well. Does the explorer have a large screen already? It's possible it may have a video input in the back but you'd have to research or take it out to see. Otherwise it requires an aftermarket radio that supports video input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KZSVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.gAgCbWMFFGC8

It sure would be fun to do this with a junker. They seem to have salvaged the MJ goodies before hand so that's good.

Skip to 7:11.

You can actually change your own title by hitting edit on your initial post on a thread, it pulls up the title text box and allows it to be edited.

Bought a 2'x4'x1/4" sheet of Lexan off eBay to replace the windshield, which should be here around Christmas. Will soon be driving the Suzuki out to my new house and continue the project since I'm too broke to do the work I want to on the Jeeps.

Used it to get $8 off a sheet of Lexan to build a windshield for the Suzuki Buggy!

Get well soon Don!

This is extremely interesting. Definitely will be watching for a writeup on it

The internals are way different so it wouldn't be an easy swap at all. You'd have to gut the doors and weld in all the internals from 97+ doors. Honestly you'd be better off going 97+ doors and repainting them to match the truck. If you are super lucky, you could find smoker vents that open but they are very hard to find.

Check the battery. My 98 XJ used to do that. Would even die while driving it, tried another battery and it would start.

Bump stops are located on the frame rail to provide the best support as they are the last thing keeping the suspension from crashing through the floor when the truck bottoms out. XJ bump stops seem offset from the spring plate because the leaf springs are mounted on the outside of the frame whereas the MJ leafs are mounted to the underside of the frame. The stock bump stop location on your MJ should be just fine. Unless you flex it out very frequently and rather violently, your bump stops and center pin will be fine.