Dzimm

I'll check out small claims and see what the requirements are. I'm going to try to sit down with her because I haven't had a face to face yet. If that fails, send a demand letter and hope that's the end of it. I'm thinking the same as you guys, it's a learning experience and it will probably remain that way because my time and effort in court probably isn't worth it.

It's sole proprietor and I would assume just an asset sale as it is like 5 employees and the owner of the business in a rented building. Honestly this business is an absolute mess. The sale was very shady as in some credit card debt was hidden, the previous owner decided to make a bunch of personal purchases on the company card right before the sale and didn't disclose the new purchases and wouldn't pay them back to the new owner, and the legal name of the business is different than what it currently has on signage and goes by (they changed it due to confusion with another daycare's name in the same town) and never changed it on the paperwork side. Is that even allowed? Edit: would the new owner verbally saying they would pay the debt to a few different people mean anything?

So I am in a situation where a small dog daycare owes me $500 for labor because I built some 4ft walls to separate the rooms. This work was done about a year ago and so far I have only been paid back for materials cost. The problems I have are that the agreement for payment and work to be done was over text message so not a formal contract but a contract non the less? I'm also not actually a business, my girlfriend used to work there and I agreed to do it because I could use the money and had the knowhow and tools. The other big issue is that the agreement was made with the previous owner of the business, which has now been sold to the groomer. The groomer was and still is aware of this debt. There were a bunch of other debts that the PO didn't tell the groomer about though so they had a shady sale. What I want to know is what are my options for collecting the debt? Send a collection notice? Lawyer?

Anyone notice he says the Jeep wave is for Wranglers? Apparently even Jeep doesn't wave to the other models.

Friend of mine just sent me this. Super cool looking truck.

This^^ Any attorney can get one written up real quick and it shouldn't cost much. You may even be able to have it done in a generic way so you can reuse it for any future problems.

I personally haven't used it nor do I know anyone who does. Looking at the plan though, you'd have to figure out how many pages and how many ink cartridges you use in a month then do the math. Just from in my head napkin math it sounds like you could save some money with it but thats completely dependent on what is being printed. I also imagine your printer would have to be monitored by HP in some way so they know how many pages you actually are printing.

Same as the Wrangler. Has to do with some sort of detection system. Lane departure, blind spot monitoring, or something like that I can't remember for sure.

Driver's floor pan was rusted out completely, the passenger floor had surface rust under the carpet, underside had surface rust and the rear wheel wells were rusted out under the flares. Actually looks to be about the same shape the OP's truck is in. Mine was wrecked at some point in its life and the most recent PO left it sitting in a garage completely stripped for a few years. I bought it as a roller and fixed all the rust as I built it. Edit: in case you are wondering, I paid $1000 for it completely stripped. Now have prolly about $6000 total in it.

That's probably one we should ask. The rusty ones need saved too right? We certainly don't want to drag all the rust free ones to the rust belt to destroy them. What you guys yelling avoid the truck don't realize is that when you own a rust free truck up here, it kinda really sucks. Mine sits in the garage for almost 6 months a year because of the salt. I would love to go play in the snow but I can't without getting it salty and I certainly don't want to have to freeze my a$$ off outside trying to wash the thing clean everyday. For the location the truck is for sale in, it's a fair price for a good running truck. Older trucks don't stay for sale very long around here anymore, even if they are rusted out. Obviously if time and money where no object, everybody would buy vehicles from the south or west but unfortunately, it costs a good chunk of time and money to make that happen. The OP has already said he doesn't have the ability to travel and has said the seller is willing to negotiate so let's see what happens.

Rattle canned my blue truck for a little under $200. Used about 30-35 cans total of primer/paint/clear and a full weekend to disassemble, prep, paint, and reassemble. If you rattle can, definitely grab a cheap trigger attachment for a spray can. Freshly painted in this picture. A year and a half later, it still looks fantastic. For paint I did: - 1 medium-heavy coat of primer sealer (6 cans) Plus the many layers that were already on the truck from my previous repairs. - 1 light coat of automotive primer (5.5 cans) This stuff did not spray or coat well and I didn't want the possibility of "tiger stripes" so I only did 1 coat. - 2 coats of blue (10.5 cans) This sprayed and coated very well. The first coat was light-medium and the second coat was a heavy coat. - 2 coats of clear (9.5 cans) These cans sprayed a little sporadic, which led to a couple small runs but overall it coated well. Both coats were medium coats. Link to page 3 of my build thread explaining the painting with many pictures of the process.

Very glad you and your family made it out safe. It's very noble of you and your family to help out others in need even under your own terrible circumstances. That says a lot about what kind of people you are. Best of luck to you and everyone else affected by this tragedy.

See for someone without a trailer, that requires renting a trailer to haul it, which cost money. Food, gas, ect also costs money, as well as lodging if you can't make a day trip. All driving the cost up. Potential missed work can be an issue for people as well. Unfortunately most people can't just pick up and make a trip like that, at least only a handful of people I know could but they also aren't the kind of people buying 30 year old trucks. Rust repair can definitely be costly but for floor pans and rockers it's not going to run $1000 unless you pay a shop to do it. Getting into besides, cab corners, frame, ect gets to a point it becomes not worth it. And it can cost less than $100 to do floors if you snag the steel from an old appliance and do it the less than factory way. As for the lift, idk why people bash so hard on budget kits like Rough Country and Rusty's. I've now had both and had no issues with either and will gladly purchase again. Of course I'm sure they don't compare to OME but they cost a whole lot less. Now if I had the money to drop in an OME kit, I'd likely also have the money to travel to or ship a southern truck and believe me, I wish I did. Haha. I can't blame you, I would never buy a northern vehicle if I had the options you do. I feel like we are getting further off topic now. Either way there is pros and cons to either route we take up here and it really comes down to what we can reasonably make work. Research is always a good thing and can make the end result much better but sometimes we have to take what we can get.

I looked into this when searching for my first MJ and it would have cost around $1000 to ship anything up to Iowa and that's IF the seller is willing to deal with that and most aren't. Shipping to Wisconsin i'm sure would be a little more expensive than that. I can't imagine a rust free MJ with 125k miles and 4.5" lift with new 33" tires would run $2500 or less even down there, that just sounds insane. The lift and tires alone are that much. Of course I'm used to rust belt prices so I can't be for sure.

HOrnbrod and Pete are not wrong in that a Southern rust free MJ can be had for that much or less. The problem is those southern MJs are many miles away from us Northerners. By the time we spent the money to drive, fly, or hitchhike our way down there and back with a clean truck, it drastically drives the price of the truck up as well as takes up a bunch of time, and time is money. If you keep looking, you could potentially find a rust free or close to it truck up here but you will definitely pay for it and it will take forever. I got lucky with my blue truck being almost completely rust free but it was previously wrecked, sat in a garage for years, was an empty shell when I bought it, and took over 2 years to find. You southern guys are lucky to have access to clean trucks on the cheap. Up here, an MJ or XJ with a good drivetrain, good suspension, and good critical body panels starts around the $2500 mark as long as the floors aren't completely gone. If it's lifted, newer tires, or has other upgrades, the price goes up. Pictures can be deceiving but as long as the floors aren't completely gone further forward and the truck does run good. It's gonna easily sell for over $3000.

I've never really understood mounting something in the side either as it would be a rediculous amount of work and create a huge potential for a leak but people made it work. The axle clearance isn't a huge factor if the truck is lifted but would be a huge problem for a stock height truck. I can't remember the exact years but I believe it was like 94 and older were the angled tanks. Below is an image of the difference. Here is a link to a thread on the Dakota tanks I referenced when doing mine, may have some good info for you. https://comancheclub.com/topic/30755-dakota-22-gallon-tank-and-fuel-pump/?page=2

All the fittings on the top of the Dakota tank go to the EVAP system. If you are going to modify a top-mounted pump assembly I would get the Dakota one because it's the correct height for the tank, XJ ones are too short and won't allow you to use the entire tank. I have seen people use a Dakota tank but seal the top of the tank cut a hole in the side of it and use an old XJ fuel pump assembly. I'm pretty sure you can buy the old twist style pump flange for the tank side. You could probably cut the flange off your old tank if it's salvageable and use that if you went this route.

Just below is about an inch. That's also if you use the top mounted fuel pump because the tank has to be spaced from the bed to clear the top of the pump. The driveshaft issue is solved by heating and bending the tank to clear the angled frame brace at the back of the cab. I was able to get about 1.5" of clearance between the shaft and the front of the tank. It's also far enough forward on the shaft that being flexed out it should still clear. The other issue with it is the rear axle with the 22.5 gallon tank. The early 90s tank have an angled corner to clear it but the later 90s tanks can be close on a swb truck.

In case it will affect you decision, the Dakota tank does hang just below the frame rail. Fine for a mostly street truck but could become a problem for a heavy offroader if not protected.

Good to hear you aren't scared of rust. Here in Iowa it's pretty bad, I'm sure its just as bad or worse up there. Repair isn't too bad it's just time consuming and can be costly to do it correctly. The important parts of the truck (bedsides, cab corners, frame, tailgate) look very clean so it looks to be easily repairable. If you get it and can't find good patch panels for the rear wheel wells, use front XJ/MJ fenders as the arches are very similar. I used a spare 97+ XJ fender I had laying around to patch my 92s wheel well and it worked out pretty good.

Price is dependent on location. In the rust belt, that's a fairly clean truck so it fetches a higher price, I see snow so I'd imagine it's seen some salt. Double check the lift and make sure it's installed correctly and with an adjustable track bar. With a 4.5" lift the front axle will sit back a little further so look and see if it has adjustable/aftermarket control arms. If not, it's not a huge deal but I imagine with 33s that was corrected otherwise the tires would rub. The mileage is pretty low but if the engine sounds good, I'd never worry about it. I do see some rusting through on the floor pan so check further up on the drivers and passenger footwells, if it's got surface rust on the bottom, the top is way worse so that's a good bargaining chip, floors aren't terrible to replace but definitely aren't fun. The rear axle also looks to be covered in surface rust so that needs cleaned and painted. The truck overall looks good with pretty straight body panels. I'd say it's not a bad price from what I can see but pictures can always be deceiving. Take a look and see what you think, if you like it, snag it!

Somebody better go get it! If it weren't halfway across country I'd snag it.

We all go to my grandparents house and grandma gets up really early and makes most of the meal. Full turkey with homemade stuffing baked in the same pan. Mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, bacon topped baked beans, and homemade rolls. All their kids are responsible for the corn casarole, pies, and snicker salad. Unfortunately I have one aunt that insists on ham for Thanksgiving since that's what her family always did. She got her way once and my grandma made a ham and turkey but she was the only one to eat the ham so it never happened again but we still hear about it every year. My dad, uncles, grandpa, and I usually play a game of HORSE before dinner. We eat, get miserable for about an hour, then usually play some screwball (card game kinda similar to euchre) for change. Usually come out about $1 ahead. I'm getting into my mid 20s while all the other grandkids range from just starting high-school to just starting middle school, so they are all off playing with my old toys from when I was a kid, some of which were also my youngest uncles toys, all still stuffed in the same closets they've been in for 20 - 30 years or so. Ah traditions are nice. Unfortunately this year I won't make it back for Thanksgiving or Christmas. It's just been a weird year for me. Everyday feels like the last and holidays just feel like another day.

Jokes on you, I like the corner. Just a fat guy throwing out ideas

Can we do front and back print? Logo on the back with comancheclub.com in small print on the front would be cool