Dzimm

Now that would be pretty cool.

Haha they went pretty litteral with that one.

Anyone else find it a little ironic they used "Pioneer" to name a trim package of a model name that references Indians? Never really thought about that until now. Someone would certainly throw a fit if they did that today. It's certainly a good name for a vehicle trim. Could very well be used for a vehicle that is a pioneer of some feature or technology. I'm not sure about any rights being associated with a trim package name, but typically I wouldn't expect a company like Jeep to let any of their rights expire in our lifetime.

You look to be missing the remote wire. It needs the signal from the radio to turn on. It's usually a blue wire in the radio harness labeled "REM". It will hook up to the lug between your ground and positive on the amp. Edit: after you hook up the remote wire, double check the fuse on the amp to make sure it didn't get blown during any troubleshooting.

Is it powering on at all? What exactly is it doing?

Get a relay harness no matter what. This will make the lights powered directly off the battery instead of through the headlight switch (which melts). This will make the stock halogens way brighter, also getting new bulbs will help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078XV8PL7/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_Tc7PBbGB83KRA Light upgrades: Option 1: Rampage H4 conversion kit to use an H4 bulb. These will give you even brighter lights when combined with the harness. These come with a glass light housing and mount right into the factory light buckets. These are what I have on all my trucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OMPJHM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_1d7PBb92N3KXS Option 2: Cree LED headlight, or some brand with this type of cheap LED bulb. These are nice but I find them dimmer than the H4s and they have a plastic lens so it scratches easy. Also LEDs don't produce heat so they won't melt snow and ice. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JP6LYX/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_pf7PBb26EWXXA Option 3: Trucklites. I've heard nothing but good things about these but they are super expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1SACFC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_Rh7PBbYP4Q5Q4 You can find better prices elsewhere for these, I just did quick links so you can see what I'm talking about.

Send Comanchejager a pm. He's parting out an MJ and I'm sure it still has these on it.

The diff has been leaking since I bought the truck so I figured I'd go ahead and clean it out, replace the leaking rtv with a Gasket, and fill with new fluid. All went well there and the gears are in good shape. I was looking around at the rear brake setup because it's leaking and I plan on removing the rear prop. valve and replace the brake lines. I have a mid 90s XJ brake booster and MC in the parts pile and I just bought an XJ distribution block off ebay that I will install. Should greatly improve the brakes. OH yeah, I found the brake fluid leak... How I didn't see this when replacing the fuel filter, I don't know.

I was just thinking of ways to repair it and I knew finding an MJ one would be hard. I had a spare set of fenders from my 97+ swap so I held it up and it was close so I went for it. It's definitely a different curve but it's close enough that once the flare is on, you wouldn't be able to tell at all.

I say buy it and fix them both with rotted XJs!

Your ground wire needs to be as short as possible. I speak from experience helping my buddy with his old competition setup (4 15" subs in the trunk of a Dodge Neon, yeah we made it fit and it was stupid loud). Just ground to whatever you have available, seat bolt works well. You can also weld a bolt to the floor to act as a stud or just put a bolt through the floor. Either will work just fine.

Some glass shops have equipment to curve glass but the problem is youd have to find the curve of the factory glass and replicating it could be difficult. No idea what it would cost, something you'd have to ask them.

I also have a 92 swb that I can volunteer. It's the autocross truck so I can do hard Street driving type testing on a set.

They are hardest to find just because of the lower production numbers. As long as it isn't in the junkyard, you are still saving it. Yes the 92s are harder to find but they aren't going to become worth any more than a 91 or 90 so I wouldn't concern yourself with any potential higher value. You could always move everything from the 90 to the 92 then build the 90 into a wheeler but that is way more work than it is worth IMO. You could also just build the 92 into a nice mild offroader and keep it nice instead of go all out with a fully built crawler.

If all else fails, buy a couple feet of the correct size hose from Napa and cut to length. They will kink slightly going over the frame rail but I have no filling issues with mine.

Too short like Pete said and the bed curves around while the XJ is a 90* corner. I think the XJ lower may even be a little shorter in height.

Check for rodent nests before replacing parts. Stick you head under the passenger side of the dash and push that hvac door open and see if you see anything.

Or go the other way and 97+ swap it. It's a challenging swap but turns a lot of heads and is a blast to own.

Keep the 90 stock since it's got nothing wrong. The 92 sounds like a project as it is so swap that one to 4wd and fix everything else on the process. Buy a 4wd XJ and just swap everything over it needs.

Finally got the time to do more rust repair on the bed. I cut out the entire top of the wheel well and then cut the inner wheel well out as well. I used a piece of the washer sheet metal to make the inner wheel well piece and sprayed it down really good with rust reformer and preventive sprays. I used a spare front fender I had laying around for the wheel arch. It is very close to the same arch as the MJ rear, just curved a little more sharply in the rear and slightly narrower vertical face. I also only have to drill two holes for the flares since the others line up perfectly. I still need to get some new flap disks to smooth out the welds and throw on some body filler to get it as even as I can. My next task is to figure out how I'm gonna deal with this spray foam mess in the rockers and cab corners... I hear this stuff is pretty flamable..

No wonder why the guy didn't respond to my numerous messages... Glad someone here got it tho.

As far as better, that depends on what's wrong with your current one. The MJ/XJ cases will be the same depending on year and transmission. Spline counts changed at some point and someone will chime in with the years because I don't know them. Cases from Wranglers are clocked different so stay away from those. Easiest is to swap in a new one of similar vintage and keep your broke one for spares if the new one craps out or rebuild it and have a known good spare t-case laying around somewhere.

Yes thats the size on the red truck and the ones I've got my actual numbers from (2300ish RPM at 70mph in 5th). The tires are what came on the truck when I bought it and I highly doubt the po fixed any speedo inaccuracy. On my way home from work I will use one of those GPS phone speedos bad_idea mentioned to see how far off it is.

The truck is still as it was when I bought it so I highly doubt it was changed. I'll have to find a speed trap to test it out.