Dzimm

Don't run anymore seafoam through your gas tank, you are really only cleaning your injectors. For it to actually be affective, you need it to go through your intake. Step 1: pull your brake booster hose off the booster but leave the other end attached to the intake manifold. Step 2: start it and have a buddy run it at around 2000rpm (I used a penny under the throttle lever on the throttle body to keep a steady rpm) Step 3: slowly and steadily pour the seafoam into the booster hose so it can be sucked into the intake manifold. Don't start and stop the flow, keep it constant. Go slow enough that the engine doesn't die but fast enough you aren't there all day. The engine will bog some. Step 4: after about 3/4 of the can, you will start to get heavy smoke out the tailpipe. This is a good sign. Step 5: when the can is about empty, dump it all into the hose so it kills the engine. Leave this to hotsoak for about 5-10 mins. Step 6: start the engine up. You will get some more smoke for a bit but you will have gotten rid of most of the carbon in the engine and she should run much better. There are tons of videos online on how to properly use seafoam. The whole process takes 10-15 mins.

My Lund visor just came wrapped in bubble wrap and in a long/wide box that probably could have fit a second one. I would just wrap it up good with bubble wrap and stick it in any box you can find or make your own box out of other boxes taped together. I would recommend adding a few extra layers of cardboard inside the box to add some strength in case it's dropped on its end or bent.

Very true, should have specified the lack of an actual MJ "kit". Rocky Road has put together an MJ kit with OME shocks but it's a 6" lift kit. Do you happen to have the pn for what OME parts you used? You're still at stock height right?

Everything I've seen and heard points to Old Man Emu being the best of the best when it comes to ride quality. It's an Australian company and they designed their kits to give the best ride for people driving across the outback. Of course that comes with the side affect that they are one of, if not the most expensive kits out there.

Good looking truck. Didn't see anything in the registry that matched it. Wonder if they were an active member here or just happened to have a sticker.

Hopefully these are clear enough. Doesn't show the model names but you should be able to Google the model codes to find the names.

Zone is getting away with the missing adjustable track bar in order to offer it at a lower price. I researched the 4.5" kits to death when doing mine and determined that Rusty's had the best deal on their kit overall. Absolutely everything you need is in it. Not a single bolt or part was left out, even the stuff you only "might" need is in it, like leaf spring shims (which I ended up needing). I priced out the missing parts from other kits like Zone's, and buying the parts separately and then paying shipping ended up costing more than just buying the Rusty's kit, even with upgrading the shocks. Also the sipping is so high with them because they ship freight with all the parts strapped to a pallet. Other companies like Rough Country ship things in separate boxes through UPS which causes parts to show up days after others (I had this happen with my XJ kit from RC and it was annoying). If you want to see what the Rusty's kit actually looks like, look at my build thread, I would definitely pay the price again because it's a great kit.

Ive got 2 of the Periodic Table of Jeep shirts too Just so you know, the poster is regular poster paper, for some reason I had it in my head that it was thin metal when I bought it. At any rate, I'll have closeups of it posted tomorrow mid-morning.

Have you seen this before? As far as I know it legitimately has every model of Jeep, including military and government ones. I can't find any high-res pictures online but I have the poster at home, I could take better pictures for you.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253663633520

Idk why but I really really like that color combo.

It's not the transmission cable, that's visible just at the left edge of the frame. Some sort of cruise control cable or maybe hood latch cable that wasn't removed completely? I can't think of what else would have a cable.

They are just 2 pieces, the bottom strip and then the top one goes all the way up and around the window. To remove, start with the bottom one, just pull up on it in one corner and it should start to move. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver set perpendicular to the metal lip and bump the handle with your hand to get it broke loose. Once it starts to move, it will come right off.

Exactly what HOrnbrod said about the axles. Most people agree that C8.25 is close to the strength of a D44 and many people, myself included, are happy running the C8.25 as it's cheap and found under many junkyard XJs. It's super easy to install and has very good aftermarket support. To me it doesn't make sense to seek out and pay top dollar for a D44 if you already have a C8.25 setup with a decent gearset. If the 88 mj is a stick it won't be aw4. The aw4 is an automatic trans.

Just checking. I was a little confused.

If you want to stay with a manual then find an ax15 to swap in. Otherwise buy an XJ that is of the same year that has an AW4 auto and swap that and all associated wiring over. If you want a big project you could look into doing an HO swap or a 97+ swap. Basically the HO swap would upgrade you to arguably better electronics and less vacuum craziness. A 97+ swap is even less vacuum craziness and IMO the simplest electrical system to work on due to OBD2. You already have the good rear axle but that gearing is not very good for what you want to do. You'll want to upgrade your gears to run larger tires, 4.10 is generally the lowest you'd want to go if you are paying for a regeat but it all depends on tire size. Your front axle will be a Dana 30 and probably have a vacuum disconnect on it. It's a good axle but youll either want to do a one piece axle conversion or find a Dana 30 from a newer XJ as it will bolt right up and won't have a disconnect. As for the lift, any of the long arm kits will work for what you want to do and you can always build your own. If you don't want to cut fenders, just bump stop it so the tires don't hit them. You won't have much articulation in the axles but if you plan to primarily street drive and occasionally mud, you won't need a ton anyway. There are some nice fender flare options that allow you to cut the fenders some for more articulation but keep a factory look. And you can always decide after the lift how much you want to trim or not trim at all.

Just out of curiosity did you mean sua?

I would borrow a reciprocating saw for sure. If you can't get one, you can do it with a cutoff wheel but it's a pain.

Exhaust clamps will work just fine. I've always done exhaust work myself and just used exhaust clamps.

It doesn't accelerate well at all and sounds like it's struggling to breath right? The more you describe it, the more it sounds like the cat. With the truck off, climb under and bang around your cat and listen for anything rattling around in there. I'm almost positive that's what it is.

Lol good point.

If you don't plan on using it offroad than keep both Dana 35s so when the MJ one finally dies, you have the XJ one as a spare. They aren't very strong axles but if you take care of them (minimal offroad and no burnouts) you should be okay. They have blown up just from street driving though. This will save you tons of money up front and if you just blow up the gears or an axle shaft, you don't have to swap the whole axle, you can just swap the spares from the XJ axle. But if you plan to actually wheel it later on, or don't want to deal with it when the axle breaks, because it will eventually, then swap it with something better like a C8.25. As for SOA, you will immediately get 4-6 inches of lift so it's not ideal for you. It also introduces axle wrap, which is when the leaf springs make an S shape due to the forces of acceleration and can seriously change the ride quality. Pinion angle is also very important. SUA retains the factory geometry and creates almost no axle wrap. I would recommend reading up on these on Google as there is tons of info on it. Just keep it a generic search for SUA vs SOA so you get real info and not forum junky's opinions. You are best off doing add-a-leafs, bastard pack, or just getting new lift leafpacks to get the rear to your desired 3" and then leveling the front to match as Jeep Driver said. Fine adjustments to lift is way easier to do up front.

If this problem just started to happen, my first thought is a clogged cat as amsuco mentioned. Same symptoms happened on my XJ a few years ago and it was due to a clogged cat, which was replaced with a cheap eBay universal cat that's still going strong. More info is definitely needed though, such as tire size and gears for any further thoughts.

For a 4x4 swap you typically need a 4wd transmission, transfer case, front and rear axles, front and rear driveshafts, shift linkages and brackets, as well as a 4wd console or pop out the cover plate in the console you have (depends on the console). There are tons of threads out there on this swap. Anything from an MJ will be a direct swap front and rear. For the rear end, Dana 44 and AMC 20 would be the best but very hard to find. Stay away from Dana 35s unless you get it free as they are not a very strong axle. The only thing that doesn't direct swap from an XJ is the rear axle. The perches will need moved (Pete has posted a pic that describes the perch dimensions around here many times) and the shock brackets cut off. You will use your MJ shock bracket/leaf spring plate. Here you could find a Dana 44 but again, very hard to find. The best option is a C8.25 from a 97+ XJ as they are plenty strong and are under most XJs. If you want to do a disk brake swap in the rear, you can get a C8.25 from a Jeep Liberty. Again, stay away from a Dana 35 unless it is free. You are really going to have to do your research and hope someone who has done this swap onto a 4cyl will chime in to give you your options on trans and tcase that will work as I have no experience with any of the 4cyl engines. If I'm not mistaken being an 86 it would have some sort of GM engine wouldn't it? If it were me, I'd find a cheap XJ to buy and do a whole drivetrain swap. That will make your life WAAAYYYY easier down the road. Your options doing that would be a Renix swap, HO swap, or 97+ swap. All of which are not hard at all if you have basic mechanical knowledge. The biggest problem is it takes time. If you are looking for the easy and cheapest route, assuming it runs fine, find any rear axle from above and swap it in leaving it 2wd. Just keep your gears in the 3.07 neighborhood to maintain the ability to go over 50mph.

It's hard to tell without either the part number or something to scale it against. Compare the price you paid to what the 4dr regulators and the 2dr regs are generally running right now. When I replaced it in my 98 2dr, the 2dr ones were running about $100 more than the 4dr versions.