Dzimm

Find a drill bit that is just too big to slide through the existing hole. Reference the hole size that comes with the tap set to find the appropriate size tap to use. Then get a bolt that is the same size as your tap. Drill the hole out to clean it, tap it, install your bolt. Just make sure to get grade 8.

Got some work done on the truck today. Idk if the previous owner had He-Man tighten everything down or what but every bolt and plug were super freakin tight. I was really worried about snapping the oil drain plug off. Started out by installing a headlight harness. This is the first one I've installed that I actually screwed the relays to the fender. I usually just zip tie them to something. I also changed the oil, which smelled really bad, I'm guessing it hadn't been changed in a while, and replaced oil pressure sensor because the gauge was going haywire. When the heater hose valve was leaking, it covered the sensor and I was pretty sure that's what was causing my problems. The new sensor however, only reads between 70-75psi no matter what the engine is doing. I'm hoping the sensor is bad out of the box. I really don't like how the oil filter is vertical on the older Jeeps, how is there not just a giant air pocket in it? I went through and cleaned some of the electrical connectors and grounds under the hood. Before doing the ground on the block, my battery gauge only read 12ish volts while the engine was running. Now it's reading 14. The truck came with a new fuel filter so I went ahead and threw that on. I had to put a zip tie between the bracket and the fuel filter to make it tight in the bracket. The last thing I did was change the fluid in the trans. The trans was grinding while at half throttle in fifth gear. When I pulled the fill plug out, fluid came pouring out the fill hole. It must have been filled through the top of the trans because it had at least 4 quarts in it. There was some metal flakes in the fluid and it was pretty dark and stank as well. I filled it back up with Redline MT-90 and now it shifts like a dream, doesn't grind in fifth, and feels much more responsive. While doing the trans fluid change, I noticed that there was what looks like some kind of sealant around the clutch fluid line where the plastic line meets the metal fitting. Is this normal? I can't imagine a pressurized fluid line would depend on a connection like this.

I've been talking with the rules guy of the local group and he said that most trucks he sees just run smaller wheels/tires to fit in the street classes. He saw no reason a Comanche couldn't be run stock with smaller wheels. I measured my truck at 68" track width and 71.5" tall so I'd have to get different offset wheels and shorter tires to run stock since like you said, the rules require equal or greater track width compared to height. There is an event Sunday at the Iowa Events Center I am going to try to make to get to see what it's all about and ask some questions.

So I just looked at the rulebook and from my understanding, it doesn't look like adding forced induction is allowed in any of the "street" classes. First mention of it being allowed I see is in section 17 for "Prepared." Even suspension and seat modifications don't seem to be allowed at all in street. For instance, there is a rule that carries through the street classes that you cannot reduce the amount of seats in the vehicle (I'm assuming to negate weight reduction) but since my truck has a bench seat, does that mean I can't put buckets in it because it reduces the number of seats? I even noticed some rules stating you have to use oem replacement parts when available and can only use aftermarket parts if you can prove that oem parts aren't available anymore, not that they would ever know something isn't oem. I didn't realize the rules were so strict on stuff.

Hmmm interesting. So if I run like stupid wide wheel spacers I'm good? Lol. What limitations are their on suspension modification?

Tires are almost never exactly the height they are measured at. Some companies run slightly larger than advertised and some slightly smaller. At 34.4" it would either be advertised as 34", 35", or even 34.5" depending on the company that made them.

Did the first repair on it today. Removed the heater hose valve because it was leaking really bad. Turns out that one of the connections on it was completely desintegrated. Put some straight connectors on the hoses and plugged the vacuum line.

I had never done it myself either. I just did a bunch of research on proper prep work and took my time. The paint and primer go on super easy, the hardest part was the clear coat because it's so thin that it wants to run on the vertical surfaces. Also if you rattlecan, get a spray can handle, it's an absolute lifesaver.

Fantastic. Just as good as it looked day one. People still give me the, I don't believe you face when I tell them. I have to point out my run on the front fender to convince them. The only problem I've had with it is that I door dinged myself and it took some paint off easier than real auto paint would, but it didn't go through the primer. The nice part is I can easily touch it up with extra paint I've got. I've driven it through pine tree branches and under oak trees and it gets surface scratches like any paint would but nothing through the clear coat. I would definitely do it again, you really can't beat a $100 paint job that is holding up like this. It really is all in the prep work.

I had the same issue with mine. I didnt want to mess with chemicals so I ended up just using a wire wheel and stripped it down to the factory primer or straight to bare steel, then repainted. It worked quite well and the wire wheel won't dig into the metal like a flap disk so you don't have to worry about an uneven surface. You could just use a sander but it would take forever.

Yeah from the research I've done it seems that trucks and SUVs fall into a gray area in autocross classes because they really don't want top heavy vehicles out there. Being lowered may change what classes I'd be allowed to run in but like you said, some places could be super strict.

For me it seems to pop up as a notification on my phome but not show in the app or anywhere else. If you accidentally swipe the notification off, you lose the promo code.

Thanks for the tip. I have looked previously and what I could find seemed to just require simple stuff like a helmet. I should probably just get ahold of them and see exactly what the requirements are, especially since eventually I won't be naturally aspirated.

Lol thanks Bonkers! You give us all enjoyment looking through these lists either way.

1992 Comanche Base 4.0l, AX15, 2wd, D35, swb Build Date: August 20, 1991 Location: Iowa, near Des Moines Status: Still on the road and runs great. Notes: I will DD this truck for now and slowly transform it into an autocross truck with a turbo. Current Owner: myself

This project can finally begin! I sold my 2 door XJ and picked up this 92 MJ yesterday. It's got 4.0l, AX15, and 2wd. The truck has 177k miles on it and runs great. PO recently replaced the clutch and master cylinder, new tires, alignment, brakes, tune up, lower ball joints, exhaust, and blower motor. It's got rust through the rockers, the drivers cab corner, and the passenger side of the bed. The previous owner replaced all the floors and they are in perfect shape still, which is great. Funny thing about the PO, he owned my other MJ at one point as well, he sold it to the guy I had bought it from. Plans for this truck so far: - perfect driving a standard as I'm not the best - replace windshield - replace blower switch and resistor - replace drivers window regulator - replace door locks - headlight switch wiring and upgrade - repair rust - lower it by cutting the front springs and making a bastard pack for the rear - change to bucket seats - find or make an airdam - build a cage/harness bar - work on thinning out unnecessary things in the engine bay - turbo!! This will be a very slow build and likely won't make a ton of progress until next year. For the rest of this year I will just be fixing anything wrong with it and driving to work since it gets better mpg. It looks so tiny next to the lifted MJ. These last few pictures I pulled from the ad.

I just brought this one home with me last night!

Frank Cotes is correct. He makes basically an exact copy of the Lund sun visor. If you want the lighted Moonvisor, he adds cheap dome style lights to the front edge. I wanna say he was asking $200-$300.

Working A/c is the best thing. If you have a rear window, open that sucker up, it will suck air back into the cab and feel good on your back/neck. Just don't have dirt or leaves in the bed or it will fill the cab. Agree with the above about leaving windows cracked a little and having tint.

I saw your post in the 97+ fuel tank thread so I'm assuming you want 97+. Anyway I'm gonna have to dig to find my paper with the actual wire colors on it but these pictures of the plugs should get you what you need. The 97+ XJ plug is in color and the Dakota plug is black and white. Just match up the pins to the corosponding function on each plug. Also keep in mind both of these are the female plug so if you need to know the male side just mirror it.

What year XJ? I've got the diagrams somewhere for the 97+ XJ to late 90s Dakota pump.

Check where your exhaust goes over the crossmember. If it is hitting there it won't be very "tinny" it will actually be a fairly deep rattle.

I'd agree with Eagle the CPS is always a high possibility on these engines. A good way to test each cylinder for a misfire is to start the engine up and one by one unplug the injectors and plug them back in. When you unplug the injector, if the engine shakes worse and you can hear it start to misfire worse, then that cylinder is good. When you have one that doesn't really affect the way the engine is moving and you can't hear a change in sound when unplugged, that cylinder is misfiring.

Be careful taking those studs out, they like to crack the brittle plastic. Another option is to use a paint marker on the ends of the studs and press it into place, that will show any holes that need drilled.