Dzimm

You mean a symbol for bassackwards and upside down electronics?

Haha I did think about that but apparently I wasn't convincing enough that I NEED a shop crane..

If they'd flip the grill the correct way it would be second slot to the driver's. Why does every XJ/MJ that anyone buys have the grill upside down? .

I didn't know there were different size oil filters used on the 4.0. It's got the same filter as my 95XJ and 97+MJ so maybe? I don't like that the adapter makes the filter sit upright though. I'll read up on this. Brake booster upgrade is done and all lines were replaced. Grounds we're all redone and I've run through most of Cruiser's tips but I'll read through and make sure I didn't miss any that apply to me. Headlight relay harness is done as well. If I decide to do the head gasket I will probably drop the oil pan as well and reseal the bottom end since the top would have all new seals at that point. I'm just reading conflicting info on what head gaskets are good and withstand boost on the 4.0 without being too strong that hard parts break first. It almost sounds like the stock gasket is the best bet. I am picking up some good scrub brushes, degreasers, and a similar color red paint so I can clean up the engine bay. I've decided since it's going to be a street truck, I'm going to try to keep it relatively clean.

Yeah no that won't work at all, completely different everything.

That's a good idea. I was looking for a reason to take that side of the engine apart so I can clean the entire engine bay and repair rust and repaint.

Yes it will be all custom. I'll probably weld together a bracket for the alternator and then bolt that to the compressor bracket after cutting the unnecessary bits off.

I didn't even think of that. The driver's side does have a crack in the rubber so I may just do that. Thanks!

I'm not sure if it's the stock down pipe or not. The entire exhaust looks like it came from a different vehicle because it doesn't have the correct bends and doesn't run where it's supposed to. After the engine bay is put back together I'm going to cut the exhaust apart and rebuild it properly and I have a flowmaster super 44 to go on it so it should sound pretty good. As far as the turbo setup goes, I'm thinking it would be easiest to run it on the passenger side roughly where the alternator currently sits or relocate the battery to where the airbox sits for even more space. My thoughts there is that the exhaust setup would be easy since it's all right there, the intake air can be taken from there and then sent through an intercooler under the bumper and up to the intake behind the power steering pump. This setup is of course totally up in the air yet but that's where my head's at right now.

So I tore the engine bay apart in my 92 to replace a bunch of stuff. New parts: - Exhaust manifold - Brass freeze plugs - Water pump and thermostat - Valve cover gasket - Radiator If I can get the parts to delete the AC compressor and mechanical fan I will high mount the alternator and get a shorter serp belt but that's depending on if I can find the parts before reassembling the truck over the next couple of weeks. I'm torn on if I want to pull the head or not.. I plan on putting a turbo on this truck in the next year or so, so it would be a good time to upgrade the gasket however the truck only has 177k miles and runs fantastic so it doesn't really need replaced right now and I've seen some turbo 4.0 running on factory head gaskets. What is your opinion on it? I also want to get your guys opinions on what else I should do while I'm this far in. I can't really think of much else so maybe someone will think of something.

In my 2 Dr XJ I removed the sagging fabric, used gloves and just rubbed the glue off by hand, then used Rust-Oleum bedliner on the backer board. Worked out really well and looked good. I can't find any pictures of it anymore though.

Wow that's cool, is that a never used pan or someone cut it out of a truck? How does one go about getting that into the cab?

What in the world?? Looks like a train, Mercedes/luxury suv type front end, Jeep cab, Dodge dart rear end... I'm completely failing to comprehend any aspect of to what and why.

Pm'd

Yeah I actually have realized I made the truck too nice for me and don't want to drive it... I'm actually considering selling it come spring/summer.

This is probably the easiest option. Question I have is did they cap the return fitting at the tank or leave it open?

Great communication, part as described, and quick shipping. Thanks Goose_XJ88!

Oh yeah it doesn't get to see daylight until the cold and salt are gone.

Made it home fine. Bottomed out the rear end a couple times and got wobbly at one point but all is well. I wouldn't recommend doing this with an XJ, just use a truck.

I tried to find the thread from a while back with sketchy ways of hauling stuff but couldn't find it. There is a lot of stuff getting moved around at work before our big company move in a couple years so they are tearing an old back room and mezzanine down and throwing all the wood in a rolloff. That means free sheets of plywood so I snagged some. I routinely take pallets home from work for projects and to burn in my wood stove so the back of the XJ is full of pallets and the top is loaded with 8 sheets of plywood.. sagging real low in the back end and of course creaking all over but we'll see how it fairs on my now probably hour and half trip home going maybe 30mph.. on basically slicks.. on slick roads..

The frame can always be fixed by cutting and welding with extra bracing. The problem is the whole cab is tweaked in ways you would never imagine. Do your door body lines match up anymore? Any cracks in factory seams across the cab?

Yeah best bet would be to part it out. You could use the tree method to get it mostly straight and driveable but I'd only do that if you wanted to build it into a trail rig.

You can use a heat gun to restore the darker color on some plastics, works especially well for fender flares. Haven't tried it on those switches but its worth a shot.

Yeah I made this mistake in my 97+ MJ. I like the way the instrument panel and gauges look with LED lights but it is extremely bright at night and the dimmer doesn't do much at all. I try not to drive it at night. Honestly OP, do the headlight harness upgrade for sure, it's a no brainer. If it's still not as bright as you like, upgrade the bulbs to the Sylvania ExtraVision, buy the super (wayyy overpriced) expensive LEDs with the heater, or get H4 conversions for a little more output.