Dzimm

Ha yeah I wasn't really sure how to word it.

Yeah don't cut the frame. There is a slot shaped hole about a foot forward of the cross member you can feed bolts through. If nothing else works and you absolutely have to cut any holes, do it from the floor pan above.

Yeah I could see the use down south for sure. I've got the whole AC system coming out of my red truck if you want it

Indeed. Would rather be doing upgrades than repairs.

I snapped the bolts off my XJ crossmember trying to remove it. Drove it 15 miles to a shop with just one stud/nut holding it on each side. Had him use an air hammer to punch them out. Ran bolts through the factory cut holes in the side of the frame rail and dropped them down where the crossmember goes, tacked them in place, then put nuts with loctite on the bottom side. In your case you are probably fine to drive it for a little while but if you can avoid driving it, I would.

The floors in these will rot just sitting in a garage all it's life. Hopefully they aren't bad but I'd expect to see at least a little surface rust. The Peugeot trans was a very light duty trans and is well known as being a problem waiting to happen. Some run 200k+ miles just fine, most don't. If yours still shifts smooth and sounds good in all gears, it won't be a huge problem with the sale. Now there is a possibility the trans was swapped for a desirable AX-15 at some point but with it being in your family so long, I'd imagine you would have heard about that. No AC does potentially bring the value down some but I wouldn't expect someone to pass up a clean truck just because it doesn't have AC. I don't have AC in any of my trucks, that's what the windows are for. It's a nice looking truck and you shouldn't have trouble selling it, list it for what you feel it's worth to you and be open to offers. $8k is probably a bit on the high side but I wouldn't take less than $4500-$5k for it. Keep in mind a clean truck in the salt belt will go for more. Especially if the market is rather thin in your area. Hop on Craigslist and see what is available for Comanche MJs and Cherokee XJs to get a better idea. MJs are worth a bit more but seeing what XJs are priced at can help give you an idea.

Read this article this morning. Goes into some detail on it. https://jalopnik.com/the-2020-jeep-gladiator-costs-35-040-to-62-310-here's-1833680540/amp

I tried to repair the clock spring while I had everything apart. I found the break in the wire tape was close to the end so I cut the last 3 inches off and tried to resolder it to the contacts. There was a couple other spots that looked a little brittle but I didn't want to touch them because the copper strips snap very easily if bent back over itself. Unfortunately the repair didn't fix it so I will need a new clock spring.. I'm torn between buying new aftermarket or used factory. They are really expensive for what it is. Dash is put back in and the truck is complete again. Put about 60 miles on it yesterday afternoon and had no issues other than no steering wheel controls still.

No it's sitting out on the farm currently. Need to get it out to the new house so I can work on it. Have been busy with house and Jeep projects. I do have the lexan for the windshield and an old XJ mirror to ziptie to the door to make it "street legal" to drive it the 25ish mile trip. I'm getting married in September and a tube bender will be on the registry so hopefully I will be building a cage and can chop it this fall!

That looks beefy

Yeah just reuse them. Loctite is your friend.

Easiest swap will be the C8.25. especially if you pull one from a Little because it will already be disk brakes.

I haven't lowered mine yet, still gathering parts, shocks I haven't looked into yet because I want to find my height first. I need to get a set of XJ leaves but I can't find a set for a decent price. Junkyards around here are asking $80+ for one used spring.. rediculous.

I don't know much about the knuckle swap but I did do a write-up on the 2wd brakes in the write-up section several months ago. May not have all the answers you have about it, but may answer some. Lowering is a complete custom job. Nobody makes anything to lower XJ/MJs. While you are at the yard, grab some XJ leaf packs to lower the rear. Build your own pack using the MJ mains to get it lower with a decent spring rate. You can use XJ shackles as well to get another inch or so. For the front, get some 3"-7" lift springs and cut them down a little at a time until you get the height you want. The lift springs are much stiffer and the taller spring you use, the stiffer it will be.

Haha! Another street MJ in the making. There are no upgrades available for 2wd brake stuff, I searched forever and asked around but there is nothing. Hardly anything available for standard 2wd brakes anymore. If you want bigger brakes, you'd have to swap knuckles. I think you would see more of a benefit from swapping the rear to disks though. The plan for my 92 autocross truck is C8.25 swap with disks. Should be plenty of stopping power.

Yes the axle will bolt right in. If you've got the vacuum disconnect axle in it now, you'll have to do something about the vacuum lines since they won't be used anymore.

I'm surprised they changed it at all, but to go completely the other way with it is kinda crazy to me. Sounds much better now and definitely not a forced quote anymore.

Wow time flies. So it's been almost a year since the last time I worked on this truck. Will be the first time in the new shop. I finally got around to pulling the dash to replace the heater core. I'm really kicking myself for not doing it when I first built the truck. Such a pita. Currently I've got the heater box put back in the cab and just need to reinstall the dash. Only took about 2 hours for teardown, replace core, and to reinstall the heater box. It should only take about an hour to put the dash back in so I'll have about 3 hours into that job which is much quicker than I had anticipated. It's gone way too smoothly so far. In the coming days I will get that finished and then pull the steering wheel off to try and repair the clock spring.

My software version is too outdated to run properly anymore and since I no longer work there, I can't update it. What brand laptop is it? It may have a built in diagnostics tool.

Do you have a picture of the led you found?

Let's back up and get all the details about both vehicles in question here.

Holy cow this is genius! I've always just written down what I did and the date in a list, which gets hard to track after a while. Never thought to actually do multipoint inspection checklists like actual mechanics do... I would greatly appreciate a PDF copy. PM sent, thanks!

Yeah back up the files now. The drive going is the most likely cause. In most cases I've seen this error, it was a bad drive. I may still have a harddrive diagnostics program from my old job that you could run on it. I'll check my computer tomorrow. Second would be the bios being screwed up. Go to the laptop manufacturers website and see if they have a bios you can download and install. Third thing is I would ask if some program or update recently downloaded right before this started.

That's all articles are these days are ads. I don't trust much of anything in articles anymore, especially if there is a product involved. I'm a little surprised he didn't mention a little more about your Jeeps or talk about your role in the Comanche community to increase credibility in your quote. That paragraph with your quote just felt forced in a weird way. He really just picked what he wanted to hear from what you said because that's how most reporters/journalists work these days. They would fit right in with politicians..

The more I look at this thing, the more it looks like it was completely submerged in saltwater at some point. I just can't think of any other reason for such destruction.