cruiser54

Is there a part number on the back of the tach?

Hell, I don't know. LOL.

I have the specs on the 4 vs 6 cylinder tachs...

Have you guys upgraded with a supplemental harness for those high output bulbs?

When you index the distributor, you're not going for a whole tooth, just somewhere in between.

actually I'm wrong, thought that indexing was meant by moving/rotating the distributor housing in order to adjust spark timing like older conventional distributors. when setting a distributor for a 2.5 i believe its similar where the oil pump gear is slightly past 3 o clock, and so then the rotor should be at 6 oclock i think. More than likely. But, why couldn't the distributor be mis-indexed on a 4 cylinder just like the six cylinders were from the factory?

Try rotating it a bit clockwise with the lever in R position until the reverse lights go out. Then go counter-clockwise just a smidge til the reverse lights come on.

Not to change the subject, but lil_loco, do you know why your tailgate is painted that way?

Cool. Looks like stout axles, vacuum operated wipers and generic Corvair/semi-truck headlights.

Why not?

Start by removing the brake light bulbs and duplicating what happens.

Yeppers.

How's the adjustment?

Post 1 in my link below, as suggested right off the bat. LOL.

Just do it. Bog, hesitation, jerking at highway speeds......... Does this also involve the 2.5s also cruiser? ...I'm having a similar issue? I have already done all your tips and added grounds.... Not as far as I know. Would be interesting to check though, huh?

So far I did 1 and 2 and also put a new air filter in today. Having the same symptoms. I don't expect it to be fix right away nor easily I know it'll take some time and process of elimination to get it running like it supposed to. Being young, inexperienced, and easily frustrated I just get so discouraged with things like this. After solving one issue and then going to next and the next and pouring most of my minuscule paychecks into and spending so much time it gets frustrating I must say. I need a bud to help me in person lol and also a side by side comparison of a 2.5 to mine cause I have questions about things whether a PO has hooked up things wrong. Don't stop at 2!!!! Free and easy to do 3 through 5!!

Just do it. Bog, hesitation, jerking at highway speeds.........

What year WJ? I have a 2000 WJ set-up on the bench ready to go into my son-in-law's 87. Looks easier than the 95 to 96 xJ deal , which I just did on my MJ. Will report back.

Go WJ. As easy, if not easier, than the 95 to 96 XJ swap. Be sure to keep the FLEXIBLE lines that exit the master cylinder.

Sensors work off of variable ground. Bad ground, bad info to ECU. Is the bad ground telling the ECU it's warm when it's cold? Get my drift?

It's not normal at all. 88 with 2.5, right? Click on the link in my signature below and do posts 1 through 5. Great place to begin.

And MANY of the Renix 4.0s had improperly indexed distributors. Even had a TSB on it. I just index them as a matter of course now. Click on my link and see post 13 for instructions and photos.

Does anyone have a pic of the contact points that need greasing? I have no reason to take out my shifter, but I did recently change the BA10 fluid with synthetic. It shifts way smoother (going from one gear to another). Just curious if that greasing is necessary as I don't want to take out the shifter out unless it will really make a difference. You should be fine with just the synthetic in there.

Could be... And Post 18 maybe?

It's an electrical issue. Sender, as Don said, threads grounding, connection......