cruiser54

Yup. That's the starting point......

Awesome, also curious on what sizes of plugs and adapters to get to the rubber hose you used. And have you experienced any negative braking (locking up etc)? Absolutely NO negative effects. Only positive.

The plug is for brake lines. I had one laying around. I also had the fitting needed for the line in the rear. I cut the line and put the fitting on and double-flared it. Sorry I don't have the exact sizes for ya.

After getting the intake bolts tight, check the integrity of the line from the throttle body to MAP. Also, since it's an 88, I would click on the link in my signature below and do posts 1 through 5 before throwing any parts at it.

I just did this last weekend. Remove load sensing valve. Plug the lowest and most forward fitting on the distribution block under the hood. Have someone depress the brake pedal slightly while you observe the 2 lines removed from the load sensing valve. The one that oozes brake fluid needs the fitting changed so it will thread into the rubber brake hose going to the axle.

Good. How fast was it switching?

The green cap? Not at first. I got the OEM cap on it. I drove it NAPA to get the green cap. I will swap it later when the engine cools off. I will keep the old "new" cap in my parts/junk bin. Excellent plan.....

so replacing the radiator will fix the issue of the coolant cap not sealing? Good point.

The green cap?

Correct.

Is there an echo in here? LOL.

What you're describing is PRECISELY why I wrote this: I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013

VatoZone TPS is iffy. O2 sensor relay is the one closest to the radiator.

Wonder what brand. also, if the O2 sensor heater relay is inop, the sensor will never heat up enough to work....

Good job on the indexing. Have you ever replaced your oxygen sensor?

Gotta love it!! Congrats.

Ditch the load sensing valve correctly and you will be VERY impressed.

You bet. Your MJ will be delighted, as will you.

Napa # 703-1396.

It isn't your timing chain. It's low fuel pressure......

Just removed the load sensing valve and plumbed things as Eagle suggested. Brakes have NEVER been better. I ordered an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear from Jeg's before I did this. Jury is still out on this, but I may just leave it as is and skip the valve. FWIW, I do have the dual diaphragm booster and have had it for a while. .

2) first. Unplug the TPS and see how it runs. The flat 3 wire connector.

Or, click on my link and go to Post 11.

Don't tell me you have Renix parts in your possession!!! Did you scrub your hands thoroughly after touching them?

Can you see any other numbers?