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cruiser54

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Everything posted by cruiser54

  1. cruiser54
    Fuel pressure test.............
  2. cruiser54
    AMEN to that!!!
  3. cruiser54
    No on the O2 at this point. Yes on doing posts 2 through 5 before anything else.
  4. cruiser54
    Or the tube from the throttle body to MAP sensor is messed up.
  5. cruiser54
    All of the above.
  6. cruiser54
    O2 sensor is not gonna cause it to turn off. After the CPS and it's plug, there is a bunch of harness that an have enough resistance to drop the output voltage from the CPS to the ECU.
  7. cruiser54
    Booster is a great upgrade. Discs? Here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/rear-zj-disc-brakes-cherokee-xj-chrysler-8-25-a-57807/
  8. cruiser54
    Altitude compensation is done by the MAP. The injectors are not running near their capacity as they are and there's plenty of "headroom" should more fuel be requested.
  9. cruiser54

    The Lost Mj

    cruiser54 replied to cruiser54's topic in The Pub

    Haha. Glad to hear this. You'll see me driving around in my white longbed...Most likely with a black Doberman in the passenger seat. Found an 88 white longbed 2WD here in town with 130K or so on it. Dana 44 rearend, bench seat and column shift. Big ton?? package..16 or 17 inch wheels. Needs a rear main seal for sure.
  10. cruiser54
    No need to change the injectors. They're plenty big enough. Put some 0 280 155 746 injectors in it from a Volvo.
  11. cruiser54
    Test your CPS. Post 7 in my Tips. Keep in mind that te signal for almost all of your critical sensors goes through the C101 connector...Post 2. I would do posts 1 through 5 as a preventative step anyway.
  12. cruiser54
    Junk. Get a 60mm throttle body from www.strokedjeep.com
  13. cruiser54
    Same. Just have to grind out the big hole in the caliper brackets. Easy.
  14. cruiser54
    Who knows? Be sure to replace the rubber line from the master to slave.
  15. cruiser54
    94 to 98 ZJ. Be sure to get the studs that hole the caliper bracket to the housing. They're longer. And also be aware that you need longer rear axle wheel studs. Another thin is to use a 3/4 " wrench/socket and grab the "guts" out of the donor vehicle's proportioning valve to transplant into yours.
  16. cruiser54
    There was an issue from the factory when they used Girling cylinders. There was also an issue with the HOSE between the master and slave. The fluid they used reacted with the lining of the hose to form an abrasive crystalline substance which would keep taking out cylinders... Unless of course you did as they finally recommended and always replace the original hose.
  17. cruiser54
    Very doubtful. Sounds like a bad ground. Do the taillight ground FIRST.
  18. cruiser54
    5 quarts Rotella T3, 1 quart Marvel Mystery Oil, Wix filter. Drive it. Monitor the progress by shining a light into the oil filler hole. Safe, easy, effective.
  19. cruiser54
    Look up at the top of the brake pedal. There are 2 switches. The metal one is for brake lights. The white plastic one is for unlocking the torque converter and dumping the vacuum to the cruise control servo.
  20. cruiser54
    Could be. I've only done automatics so I never had extra wires.
  21. cruiser54
    Hazards are not powered through the ignition switch. Comanches never had clocksprings.
  22. cruiser54
    How did you determine that?
  23. cruiser54
    I just did my truck this weekend and there are definitely a few that change colors so do as Cruiser says and go pin to pin. I also had 4 wires that didn't go anywhere on the other side of the connector so don't let that confuse you. And just to let everyone know I didnt have any problems with my truck before eliminating the c101 but it does feel like it runs more smoothly now. Typical.
  24. cruiser54
    Go pin for pin. Sometimes colors change at the connectors.
  25. cruiser54
    I'm thinking...........
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