cruiser54

When the new tires were installed, did they set the pressure to MAX rather than RECOMMENDED on the door jamb?

Here's another one: http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=27192

Have you inspected your u-joints?

Gotcha. I misunderstood.

I meant the R*C*B*R*C one!!!! You're all over this, I know. LOL.

What's the bottom line in my signature? LOL.

This should help. Click on the link in my signature and read/perform items 1 through 5. You will become more familiar with acronyms and your Jeep in general....

This should help. Click on the link in my signature and read/perform items 1 through 5. You will become more familiar with acronyms and your Jeep in general....

Done #10?

You've read post 6 I take it?

Excellent. If you read Post 1 in my tips, you can see how many critical things ground at that dipstick stud.

That should ground to the engine dipstick tube stud.....

Ohms test on a TPS? Nah. RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done. 1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up. 2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over. Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used. Revised 12-15-2013

Post 8 shows proper TPS procedure. But do that only after ding 1, 3, 4, and 5. And of course, checking the intake manifold bolts.

Have one now, had two a few years ago. Had 13 of them as demos at the dealership from the time they came out in 1986 until 1992.

So, since you're getting the Dana 30 ring and pinion and carrier along with the 44 ring and pinion with carrier, all I have left is a 44 ring and pinion in 4.10.

No idea. Pretty heavy stuff............

I happen to have a 4.10 Dana 30 ring and pinion on an open carrier and a Dana 44 with 4.10s on a Trac-Loc carrier. DANA brand and were swapped out at low mileage....

Here's why the bolts break: From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com This is a known issue. 1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh. 2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88. 3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture. The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole. The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem! In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

Perfect.

What voltages? .1 to 4.9?

Napa has the tanks.

Click on the link in my signature below. Begin by doing posts 1 through 5 before doing anything else.

The Tips apply to your vehicle regardless of what tear engine it has now.

Remove the line from the bottom front of the combo valve. Cut the end off and take it to the parts store and ask for a plug like it.