cruiser54

I'm guessing you believe your EGR is completely closed but it's actually not. It should puke out and die almost instantly when the EGR is cracked open manually at idle.

What happens to the idle when you pull the pintle back on the EGR? What are the MAP output readings at idle and then with throttle?

Good news!!

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/map-sensor-test-procedure-7416/

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html

Wrong place to look. They're available on ebay. Also, Programbo and another guy sell them for about $100 per set refurbished on Cherokee Forum.

Yes. And the crappo chinese caps we get now don't fit the bottles well at all. The 703-1396 caps fit well, even on crappo bottles.

I had a weird issue on my 88 XJ where the internal ground wire from the pump to the mounting flange got hot due to a loose connection and would cause a cut-out and stall. Here's a thought also. There's a ground for the fuel pump behind the driver's side taillamp.........

746s are the way to go.

Post 27 takes less than 2 hours. Only one way to find out if it's the problem. Just do it.

Put a Napa 703-1396 cap on the bottle. Let us know how it works.

Ditch the stock injectors and get some 0 280 155 746 injectors from a volvo. Ebay even.

You might be okay with the 3 ohms as long as it's steady during the "wiggle test". Read #27 and see what you think about that.

I would.

Good point -- especially since the manifold is under vacuum, not pressure. Another good point.....

Zero rust? How many miles?

Post 27 in my tips. Have you ever done post 5?

I use clean motor oil. Just a warning: If it isn't the o-rings, be prepared. Carry a fire extinguisher? Never really understood how an injector that squirts out it's tip, into a manifold full of air, could leak fuel through the o-ring sealing the air in......

Very minimum test the CPS, post 7. ICM contacts, post 4. If I had an 88 I would also do 1 through 5 and maybe 27. Click on the link in my signature and you'll find everything I referenced above.

If those are stock Renix type injectors, it's most likely the injector itself leaking. Known issue with the Deka injectors.

Sure couldn't hurt.

I'm assuming you cleaned the throttle body, adjusted your TPS on the engine side, and tightened up your intake manifold bolts? Checked your O2 sensor yet?

Often overlooked. Not only does it affect the injector timing, but since the ECU tells the ICM when to fire, if the rotor is far from the dizzy terminal rather than where it's supposed to be, the spark is having to jump a rather wide gap. Think that could lead to excessive build-up on nice new parts like cap and rotor? Hmmmmmmm.

Axial or radial play?

Click on the link in my signature and go to post 7 for info on how to test your CPS.