cruiser54

Forever if you like. It's only there to keep the fuel pump noise down anyway.

Bypass the ballast temporarily and see what happens. Sounds like there's a lot of resistance in the thing.

I say ditch it and let folks post in Tech, Pub,, or whatever. This isn't Facebook.

Never even bother with it. It could be $#!&-canned and I wouldn't care.

Click on the link in my signature below and do posts 1 through 5 as a matter of course and save yourself from some future headaches. Welcome to the addiction.

88 huh? Click on my link below and do posts 1 through 5, and you should probably do 27 in place of 2. Test the CPS per post 7 if you're up to it.

the reason for the right rear tire usually spinning first is due to the rotational torque of the driveshaft trying to lift that wheel, causing it to have slightly less contact area and weight. Bingo!!

There was and adapter to use the Chrysler DRB on the Renix Jeeps. I have one. The MT2500 "brick" can scan it also with the correct adapters. No stored codes or anything, but reading stuff in "real time" has worked for me.

I believe it reads real time sensor operation like my factory scan tool.

Got any mechanic friends with a Snap-On MT2500 scan tool aka "The Brick"?

Then it may be a thermal problem. Something gets warm and fails monentarily, cools off, and is then okay. How tight are the connectors on the fuel pump ballast resistor?

No wait time? Why don't you at least take a gander at the ignition switch up under the dash on top of the steering column? Maybe it's crispy looking? So, the temp gauge stating normal points to the ignition switch working in the On position though. Tach dropping could be bad CPS or just the fact the engine died as well as the oil pressure reading. The fuel and voltmeter gauges should be checked immediately when this happens. Have you ever let it idle and performed a "wiggle test" of the various harnesses in the engine bay?

You're good there.

So, does it always start right back up, or do you have to wait for a period of time?

This is a stone I don't think we should leave unturned at this point. Why not use a digital meter? If it's not switching, you'll see that.

Intermittent stuff is hard to catch. What do your gauges do when it shuts off? Refresh me. Have you done the coil/ICM contacts?

I know the oxygen sensor is new, but is it working? Not just the heater portion but the switching part inside.

I wouldn't think the accelerator cable would be an issue either. I edited my post about indexing. Was it off and needing correcting?

Doesn't take much. Shouldn't be fluctuating though. I'm thinking something else isn't right. I'm gonna have to bail here in a bit. Was your distributor off at all when you checked it for indexing?

You can put the tissues away now. LOL. I should have been more clear. Got it bolted back on yet?

Tap it in carefully at the edge to kinda flip it.

Outside. Yes, pick it.

No dead spot?

We'll discuss that later. Get that plug out and check the adjustment on the throttle stop first. Post 14. Be sure the butterfly isn't digging into the bore of the body. So, runs great now but just low idle?

While you've got the throttle body off, check to see if someone ever messed with the stop screw. Also, remove the blind plug on the driver's side of it with a small pick to expose an adjustable air bleed.