cruiser54

All the more reason to go with WJ.

Yeah. That was good. But I'm kinda partial to December 2013..............

Which booster did you use? 95 to 96 works fine if you use it's spacer. Pedal height is stock. WJ works fine with stock pedal height but you have to massage the firewall lip a bit. WJ has become my preferred conversion. Flexible lines out of the master and you don't have to move the washer reservoir.

One I used to own. http://prescott.craigslist.org/cto/4580163728.html

Yeah. What oil filter are you using?

That's funny. Golen specifies a cam FOR a carbed 258 for their 4.0 stroker!!

Good old soldering gun with 2 settings depending on he trigger pul is great. Nothing fancy.

PM me your email address and I'll send you photos.

Prescott, Arizona.....Call 928-776-9528 and ask for Bob.

Want an 88 Pioneer 2Wd rust free?

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html

Did it come with the plug already installed? I'm not a big Bosch fan FWIW. I prefer NTK. Do the test?

I'm still learning the idiosynchracies of the renix electronics.... So in the absence of a signal from the stator, doe the ecu signal the icm from the cps signal? Other engines I have experience with all relied on the stator alone to directly fire the ignitor, independent of any signal from the ecu. Unplugging the stator on these vehicles would simply disable the entire ignition system The stator has NOTHING to do with ignition. That's controlled by the ECU via CPS and some other inputs. The stator only controls the sequential firing of the injectors. Unplug one on a renix and see if you notice a difference in performance/running.

So give us a re-cap please of what you did so far. And, the problems are gone?

Just unplug the stator and see how it runs.

Well, get to work on it then. LOL.

Okay. Thanks for the re-cap. Even though the O2 sensor heater circuit tested good, that's not a guarantee that the sensor itself is working. There is a test for that. For the Renix years, 87-90, the O2 sensor has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 orange. The orange wire (largest gauge of the 3) is the 12-14 volt power that comes from the O2 sensor heater relay on the passenger side firewall, and that powers the internal heater in the sensor so that the sensor can work at idle, and almost immediately after start up. Loss of that power will hurt gas mileage even with a good O2 sensor. One of the black wires is a common ground for the heater power and O2 signal to the ECU, so a poor ground will give a voltage feedback from the heater power input, to the ECU causing poor mileage even with a good O2 sensor. The third wire, also black is a voltage feed wire, 5 volts, from the ECU to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is an O2 concentration sensitive variable resistor. At optimal O2 concentration the 5 volt input feed to the O2 sensor drops to 2.45 volts due to losses across the O2 sensor to ground. That same wire if disconnected from the O2 sensor will read 5 volts constant to ground. At idle that voltage should read 1-4 volts oscillating quickly back and forth roughly once every second. At 2000 rpm it should run between 2 and 3 volts max, and is optimally running between 2.3 and 2.6 volts at 2000 rpm (in park). A digital meter can NOT be used for reading the O2 sensor voltage, but it can be used to test the ground and the 12-14 volts to the heater and the 5 volt feed from the ECU with power on and engine off. You must use an old style analog meter with the needle gauge on the display to see the voltage swing back and forth with the engine runing. If the O2 sensor readings are not right, say they read 4 volts or 1 volt steady, you have a problem. BUT before you blame the O2 sensor make sure it has good wiring, and make sure the proper voltage is feeding it, by turning power on, engine off to read the engine off voltage feeds (12-14 volts on the orange wire, and 5 volts on one of the two black wires), and ensure the ground wire (power off) reads less than 1 ohm to the battery negative post. A leaky exhaust system or leaky fuel injector(s), or bad compression, bad rings or leaky valves, bad plugs, wires, cap, rotor, HV coil, and so on, or combination of these, can also cause a lean or rich condition that gives you high or low O2 sensor readings that are not the O2 sensors fault, so try and verify those other items also before buying parts like an O2 sensor to fix your problem.

A leakdown and/or wet/dry compression test should tell us something.

You've got ISC and IAC/ICM backwards. ISC has a pintle to move linkage. IAC controls air flow through the throttle body on MPI. Do a dry, then wet compression test.

Perhaps a re-cap is in order for old farts who post on too many forums?

Well, what's taking you so long then? LOL.

That wasn't committed to memory! LOL. I happened to have one out in the garage.

You mean ISC? Idle Speed Controller? How did you determine excessive blowby?

Not likely. Have you indexed your distributor?

It's behind the trim panel behind the spare tire on an XJ.