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cruiser54

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Everything posted by cruiser54

  1. It's not really that close to the flywheel.
  2. How did you adjust the TPS? Is the fuse blown/corroded at the tCU?
  3. The factory test is to read the output on the scanner. You will see it reading 0. Rev it to 2000 RPM and see the value change to a flickering 20 or so. I had an aftermarket one on a supercharged Miata that was tied to the ECU. Came as a kit with a little readout of colored lights yo could watch from the dash showing how many degrees the timing was being retarded. This is the company that made mine. http://www.jandssafeguard.com/tech.html Per the factory wiring diagram, no knock sensor on the 2.5. And, this is nothing exclusively weird to Renault. GM and many others used knock sensors, as did AMC on the later 258s..
  4. You're on the right track and beat me to the punch. Do 1 through 5 for sure, and 27 is actually the preferred option for 2.
  5. Hmmm. I didn't know you had a writeup for that already. You REALLY need to peruse my website. :shake: Drama queen......... LOL. You go girl!!!!
  6. You are doing a great job. Hang in there and we will prevail!!!
  7. Hmmm. I didn't know you had a writeup for that already. You REALLY need to peruse my website.
  8. Mine is 14V in, ~10V out. Check the factory ground behind the left tail lamp. It's a poor ground location at best, so it doesn't hurt to run another fuel pump parallel ground to a spot on the frame physically closer to the pump. Try a fuel flow test as detailed here: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fuel_System/Fuel_Diagnostics.htm Do this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=249
  9. cruiser54

    front skid

    The favorite part of my front skid is that it gives me something to cuss at whenever I need to work in the area it "protects".
  10. Keep in mind that your fuel pump grounds in a real crappy spot. Behind the left taillamp....... Since you have ah 88, I would strongly suggest going to www.cruiser54.com and performing Tips 1 through 5.
  11. The wrangler header will probably not fit. Get one for a 91 to 99? XJ instead.
  12. What year and engine?
  13. Agreed. I have a 242 waiting in the wings for my 90 MJ.
  14. What do you have for a brake booster? on the MJ? factory :thumbsup: You will realize more braking improvement on your MJ by changing to a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder from a 99 to 2004 wJ than by adding rear disc brakes. Or do both and have pure braking awesomeness. I have ZJ rear discs in my 8.25, slotted rotors in the front and a WJ Master/Booster. I don't even have upgraded brake parts and the braking is awesome. But, I'll tell you guys this. I did rear discs on my wife's 88 and there was a big difference. Then added the WJ booster setup and it was twice the added braking effectiveness of the rear discs alone. On my MJ with a Dana 44 rear which has larger shoes, I just added the booster. I'm not so excited about doing rear discs on it now. Super big improvement alone.
  15. YOU are probably hearing the horn relay.
  16. And, those needle bearings seldom feel smooth like old roller bearings do.
  17. What do you have for a brake booster? on the MJ? factory :thumbsup: You will realize more braking improvement on your MJ by changing to a dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder from a 99 to 2004 wJ than by adding rear disc brakes.
  18. What do you have for a brake booster?
  19. Head straight to the front parklamp sockets. Got hitch wiring?
  20. It sits at an angle, appearing to be possibly cross threaded.
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