cruiser54

KYBs are great shocks.

Stroked and Blown???? Maybe I wasn't wrong when I put "porn" I the subject line :dunno: Ask Hornbrod about the stroked and blown Comanche we both drove. I drove it out in Arizona when my buddy from Jeep Racing was tuning it with Electramotive fuel injection. Don drove it later when it was at Hesco. We put the beefier parts in the transmission that he got from Japan. I'm guessing Celica Supra parts.

No easy way to check and that sounds fishy. Have you seen it?

Oh Ruuuuuby, don't take your love to town. Back on topic, I have some black Rubi shocks that are the same dimensions as the red ones on one of my XJs and they're fine. But there are some smaller black ones that look rather wimpy out there.

Gotta have the red ones from the RUBI.

Absolutely.Can you hear it run?

I have the red JK Rubicon shocks on both a stock height and a lifted MJ and on 2 XJs in my family. The dealerships throw them away when doing lift kits on new Wranglers. You have to fiddle a bit with a few of the ends but no big deal. Quite a difference in ride and handling.

My 2 cents first, with instructions second. HO myth buster Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this? The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold. Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. HO stands for Highly Overrated. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13 __________________

Yes!! Are you familiar with the 282 CI engine from VAM? Mexican. Different block.

I have to admit I use a MightyVac and bleed them myself. Maybe that's why I've had no issues?

You could still have a fuel pressure issue and/or an electrical issue. How's the vacuum line from the throttle body to MAP sensor? I would test the CPS. Tip 7. Have you performed any of my Renix Tips at all?

Well son of a b*@$£. I don't like that bleeding it with the pedal all the way down was actually the culprit. But I'm glad all it cost you was some brake fluid. I doubt I've bled as many MJ's as you have, but I tried very hard to engage the fifth line to bleed it. I could not get it, after a lot of attempts. I gave up and took it out, braking's better than ever and I don't even have the WJ booster/MC installed yet. I wonder if everything would bleed better if the rod was disconnected from the lever on the valve, and then the lever pointed straight up for the duration of the bleeding process.

I've never had a problem bleeding the MJ brake system even with the load sensing valve on the back.

My bad. I fixed it.

Whoa, whoa, whoa. You're gonna use a butt dyno and bench race this stuff? Your quote below: Well good on Chad....but me thinks all those extra counter weights flailing around in my oil pan as I cruz down the highway will give me a warm fuzzy feeling inside every time I push down on the go-go pedal.....

Probably no need to. We seem to now have a self proclaimed stroker expert now anyway.

Fuel pressure should be 31 with the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator and 39 when disconnected. Have you ever tested your CPS? What year MJ?

Possibly. He's got more dyno time on 4.6 strokers than anyone in the country. What would he know? I think Lee Hurley at Hesco has built and dynoed a few more than the above. That's also possible. Which crank does he prefer?

Well stated.

I'm wondering about the booster not going flush with the firewall. That contributes to long pedal travel.

I've had no issues. Easy bleeding also.

How come you used spacers instead of modifying the firewall lip?

Teehee.....

Possibly. He's got more dyno time on 4.6 strokers than anyone in the country. What would he know?

Plug and play. Let us know what you think. Ever had one out? If not, remember this: Remove the black bracket from the body, not the ECU from the black bracket. 10mm ratcheting wrench works best.