cruiser54

Here buddy: http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

4: see www.cruiser54.com. Blower motor ground.

Well, if you quit describing it as a tractor engine, which it isn't and never has been, maybe you would get some positive results when working on it.

I love the original!!!!

Sure, but I kinda like the original......

Ummm ... The flat male 3 wire connector (if it's the one I'm thinking of see below for more) is for the engine side of the equation. It needs to be connected for the ecm to be able to do it's thing.The square 4 wire plug is for the transmission (TCU) side of things. It will affect transmission shifting and functionality. So if the 3 wire connector on the engine harness is not connected to the TPS ... That is the most likely cause of the issue. Both connectors come off the same harness "trail" so should be right beside each other. The other 3 wire connectors in the general vicinity are the MAP sensor (green), O2 sensor (under the manifold and shouldn't reach), and the CPS lead (should be near back of the head only has 2 wires in 3 prong connector). Everything else is two lead (ECT, Injectors, Knock, and e-fan) and then the 4 lead for the IAC ... I only really mentioned ones around that area. Having done this same conversion a while back (and making a few location changes) I had a few WTF moments myself when I went to plug it all back in. I stole your photo...................

Should be 31 and 39 respectively.

Remove the driveshaft and it's easier to do in the truck.

Just what I need.......

Thanks for the homework assignment.........................

Makes me wonder if in my Ground Refreshing Tip there should be a note to run the extra ground cable from an alternator bolt to the passenger side inner fender.........

Ever do Tip 18 or upgrade your cables?

Yes. ^^ RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done. 1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up. 2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over. Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used. Revised 12-15-2013

Cruiser’s Vacuum Test for Exhaust Restriction Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining this procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. It’s usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.

I bet your alternator might be dying. Or the 2 wire connector is crudded up. How long since you did a connector refreshing under the hood? I can't remember what years your MJ is.

We were installing those on XJs for the Jeep Racing guys back in the late 80s. Worked great. I had a set for an MJ brand new and sold them to Cobramarty on Cherokee Forum.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/5431803599.html

True. I've got some spare 87 ECUs for test units.

Upshift indicator light on manual trans models. Supposedly, if shifted then it would meet EPA fuel mileage estimates.

Geez, I sold a few of them for $200 each or paired with a rear $350 for the set........

Test the CPS Tip7 at www.cruiser54.com

Here ya go.

Don't forget to do this along the way. http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

Don't trust the tow truck driver.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014