cruiser54

First off: HO myth buster Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this? The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold. Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. HO stands for Highly Overrated. Secondly, if you want to put an HO engine into your 88, here's how: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13 Thirdly: If you want more power, there are things you can do to your existing engine as long as it's in sound condition. Have you ever indexed your distributor? __________________

Your compression numbers are fine. Ditch those crappy Platinum Plus 4 plugs for some NGKs. Do Tip 25 via the link below:

Couple of things. First, check the integrity of the throttle body to MAP hose/tube. Check the electrical connector on the MAP. You MAY have some injectors that are leaking down when not energized. I prefer using the volvo 746 injectors as replacements.

Your "bud" is sorely mistaken.

That makes too much sense!! LOL.

Taylor makes awesome wires also. Summit carries them.

Lots of cheapo wires out there.

Had fast cars all my life. MJ felt great at that speed. They can do it. I take no credit. Just reporting what I experienced.

You're missing performing normal maintenance like new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

Woohoo!!!

See tips 12 and 13 to get this done correctly. And, Tip 2 is not one to ignore.

Get a 703-1396 coolant bottle cap on there before you overheat the engine. Click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1,3,4, and 5. CPS can be tested and modified as needed using Tip 7. You can unplug the distributor's little harness and it will still run.

Needle pointed straight down and it felt great.

On cranking you can read the fuel pressure.

20 minute job.

You need to test your fuel pressure. 39 with the vacuum hose disconnected from the regulator. No mention of fuel filter replacement.

Thanks!!!!

Til the needle pointed straight down. Speedo is accurate per GPS.

You need to slow down asking questions and read the advice given to you.

Works all the way through 99 actually.

Read this: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

Why? Working 7 days a week in the propane business. I'll update Comanche Club's Tips when I get a chance.

The Sentinel headlamp one is kinda cool, eh? Not sure, but I think ZJ uses the same relay.

Yes, I have seen it and that's right where they crack.

Go to www.cruiser54.com for now.